aeblank
Veteran Member
Yes, must have capable FEL.
I'm a huge fan of my palletized system. Saves handling, big time.
Tractors and wood! Show your pics
- Thread starter Bota4me
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I'm a huge fan of my palletized system. Saves handling, big time.
Loaderman22
Veteran Member
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- Jan 11, 2017
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- 1,094
- Location
- Hudson Valley, NY
- Tractor
- 1947 Ford 2N, 75 MF 30B, 75 Swinger Loader, 1979 Cat D3
I bought this one & so far couldn't be happier. Heavy, (meaning good quality), nice solid paint job (still look good), no bending issues what so ever. I picked up a full IBC tote of wet red oak, approx. 1600#'s or so, no deflection at all.
Pallet Forks, Pallet Fork, 3 Point Pallet Forks 3 Pt Pallet | Agri Supply 72511
hunt4570
Super Member
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- Feb 10, 2015
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- 5,975
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- South Carolina
- Tractor
- Grand L3540 ,724 loader, bucket, grapple and now forks also! And just for OP.. a pool!
^^^^^
Even with dry wood they must weigh right around 2000 lbs though, more than my tractor will handle. I only burn a few cords per year anyways, and by using my bucket to bring it from the wood shed I'm able to lift it right up over the deck railing and load the wood box without leaving the house. One bucket will last 5 days in the coldest weather.
Even with dry wood they must weigh right around 2000 lbs though, more than my tractor will handle. I only burn a few cords per year anyways, and by using my bucket to bring it from the wood shed I'm able to lift it right up over the deck railing and load the wood box without leaving the house. One bucket will last 5 days in the coldest weather.
Diggin It
Super Star Member
^^^ That's why I cut mine in half. Enough of a stack for a few days burning, but easier to move.
With deep tread tires like those sure would be nice if they had power to them. Why you think such a long tongue on that? I'd probably hack off 4' and add it on the back. I assume you stand on the ground to load, is their enough vision for using the loader? Nice trailer though makes getting wood more fun with more levers, my guess is you paid 10k
goeduck
Super Star Member
This grapple has a 47 or 49” tip to tip opening and I needed every bit of it to grab this firewood round to move it. Way more than I can move by hand :shocked:
s219
Super Member
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- Dec 7, 2011
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- 8,607
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- Virginia USA
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- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
Wow that is nice!
John_Mc
Elite Member
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- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,613
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
Power drive is not available as an option on this trailer. The offer it on the slightly smaller ATV version, and on their larger versions. I suppose if someone really wanted to press the point with their dealer, they'd put a power drive on it for you - it is an expensive option, however. I'm not too worried about it. I don't work in my woods when the conditions are wet and sloppy, and my tractor had no trouble pulling it. If I were pulling this size trailer with an ATV, I'd certainly want the power drive option, especially if I were operating n any kind of hills.
There is a story behind that tongue: The trailer comes with the traditional tractor pin hitch, but the hitch rotates (I guess so if the trailer rolls, it doesn't try to roll the tractor with it. So by design, it's free to move in rotation (i.e. roll/twist) and like any pin hitch, the trailer can swing to the left or right behind the tractor almost 90˚.
It is limited in how far it can flex up or down (for example when you drive through a ditch or waterbar). The limit is how much slop there is between the pin on the hitch and the hole it goes through. That doesn't allow for a whole lot of up and down movement, and I've got a fair amount of uneven terrain. I could see where the hitch had already been stressed & deformed a bit when it had hit its limits of flex in this direction, so I copied an idea Gordon Gould described in this post. Basically, you spin the pin hitch on the trailer 90˚, then pin that to a gizmo fabricated to go from there and pin onto the tractor's drawbar. The first pin allows up and down flex, the second allows the normal left and right flex. If you zoom in on the hitch (right in front of the loop that hangs down under the tongue in the picture with the log in the air) you can see that adapter. (You can see a much nicer example in the link to Gordon's pictures.)
So that gizmo added about 8". The rest of the extra length is because I have the trailer hooked to one of those triangular 3 Pt hitch receivers and have a receiver with no ball on it to accept the other end of my adapter. Normally, I would attach this to the tractor's draw bar. I did it this way this time because where it was parked, I was having trouble getting things lined up to get the pins in, and the slop in my 3 Pt hitch arms made that much easier. Not the best way to go, but I had limited time, and wanted to get to these logs while I still could.
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Loaderman22
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2017
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- 1,094
- Location
- Hudson Valley, NY
- Tractor
- 1947 Ford 2N, 75 MF 30B, 75 Swinger Loader, 1979 Cat D3
I went back to the log with my tape measure finally. Your numbers were a bit shy, the log is 22" at small end, 24" at the big end before the split, that part is over 30". It's over 11 feet long, so the calculator on woodweb figures it to be about 1950#'s, right on where Geoduck thought. I may be a tad low on fluid so that's all she could do. To be honest I didn't think it would pick it up at all. Next time I get to it, she gets cut up for firewood. Would probably be a nice saw log, but I don't have one, nor the desire to find a local one.
