3-Point Hitch Challenged to remove pin - Kubota L3540 Lift Arm

[PandDLong]

I am trying to put on my hydraulic tilt lift arm - but can't get the old one off. I've sprayed in some Kroil to see if it would loosen up and make it clear what I do next - obviously that didn't work.

1. Is it threaded in? As the head is mostly round, how do I grip it effectively to turn it?
2. Is it just threaded on the end I have exposed (removed two nuts) and it should push out? How would I hammer it without damaging the threads?

Thanks for the guidance!!!

 

[fruitcakesa]

It should push out with the lock nuts removed.
Try more lube and put the nuts back on at the end of the threads and try tapping on it with a hardwood block or brass drift between the pin and hammer.
On my L4630, I replaced a few of those pins

 

[flyerdan]

Try pressing them out with a big C clamp and a deep socket. They should start to move with little effort; if they won't budge that way double nut one side and try turning them. Doubt that they are threaded in, that would be more labor intensive for the factory.

 

[Dave M7040]

First you need to understand the design.

Study this parts illustration and photo of the actual pin.

Note that it has a machined smooth area on the shank of the bolt.

This smooth area is designed to have an interference type fit in the lift arm. By interference, the lift arm hole is a tiny fraction smaller than the main smooth area of the shank.

The two parts distort as the nut is initially tightened making a fit with no movement between the pin and arm.

The only reason there is a hex head on the pin is for initial assembly to prevent the bolt from rotating as the nut is turned.

It will take serious force to dislodge the pin. You need to resort to specialized tools not a C clamp.

Consider a puller like this one which can apply a substantial force to the end of the threaded area.

This tool is designed to pull arms off pins. You are doing the same but reverse, pushing the pin out of the arm.

If a tool like this one will not go over the arm, then a two arm gear puller.

You need to have a very good reason to want to be doing this. It will not be easy!!!

NO HAMMERING!!!!!!!

Dave M7040

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Dave, nice. Is it possible to safely get some heat on the outer part? Guessing it would help if it can be done w/out overheating other things.

Asking from ignorance...

thanks,
Z.

 

[Dave M7040]

Dave, nice. Is it possible to safely get some heat on the outer part? Guessing it would help if it can be done w/out overheating other things.

Asking from ignorance...

thanks,
Z.

I would advise against heating without any knowledge of the metallurgical design of the lift arm.

With the correct puller, it will move easily. Just need a too which can apply tons of force.

To support the new hydraulic lift link, a new pin should be used. About $30 or less.
Many auto parts places loan out tools for one time use. You pay for the rental tool and get a refund when returned.

Rental places usually rent pullers

Dave M7040

 

[PandDLong]

Thanks for the detailed info. Looks like a bigger task than I had anticipated and I will need to set aside more time (and be more prepared).

With all the threads and comments on top-and-tilt, I just assumed it would be easy.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

L3940 bolt. You can barely feel the difference in thickness.
I take mine off for the backhoe, comes out easy. I wouldnt hesitate to give it a little tap with the nut at the end.

 

[PandDLong]

A side question - what’s the engineering rationale for this pin to be effectively “locked” into place without any rotation or movement?

 

[Scook222]

On old tractors that got loose and worn out the hole would be elongated to the point that it would bind on the linkage. That ball will wear out about as quick but it keeps you from having to buy a lift arm from the holes being elongated really bad. It’s a lot easier and cheaper to replace the ball than the pin and lift arm