Question about rotary tiller - what lube?

[ning]

So I picked up this tiller at an auction. It's unused, and un-oiled; there's no paperwork or markings to lead me to a product page.

Gear box: guessing I use 80w-90 in this?

Final drive: same? I don't know if it's gear or chain, if that makes any difference.

Other end - guessing a grease zerk goes in that hole; should I use the same red grease I use in all my other zerks?

Thanks!

 

[Fallon]

Any kind of gear oil should do fine. If it has leaky seals you can even use a pourable grease. Regular greasing by whatever you normally use will keep the other bearing properly sorted.

 

[ning]

Thanks; a local friend recommended 85-140 oil, so I put that in the central gearbox and the side drive unit, apparently 1/3 full (there's a bolt between the upside-down Y and D on the side box which I'm guessing is 1/3, filled until oil came out there, and used a ratchet extension as a probe in the central gearbox as a dipstick).

The other end where I'm guessing a zerk goes had some evidence of grease in it before. I didn't have a zerk that would fit it - and couldn't find one at TSC; it fit a 5/16 bolt that I had but all of the zerks I could find had much finer threads than this bolt. I filled it the best I could with grease and then used the bolt to close it off.

The tiller is a beast! In ten minutes I got more tilled than I'd expect to do with a ton more labor with our rear-tine tiller. It hit a couple bigger rocks which spun the clutch but otherwise it just tore through the ground.

I'm still hoping to indentify the tiller as I think it would be useful to have skids, which I'm guessing go where those arms which have casters under them (broken). If all else fails, I'll look at some examples online and try to fab something with my meager metal skills...

 

[Texasmark]

I'm in Texas and all my "gear oil" boxes get 85-140 or 80-140, whichever it is....heaviest readily available. Up North I can see using the lower density 80w-90. Having torn up a couple of boxes early in my 40 year learning how to farm experience, I go with the heavy weight.....no problems since.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks; a local friend recommended 85-140 oil, so I put that in the central gearbox and the side drive unit, apparently 1/3 full (there's a bolt between the upside-down Y and D on the side box which I'm guessing is 1/3, filled until oil came out there, and used a ratchet extension as a probe in the central gearbox as a dipstick).

The other end where I'm guessing a zerk goes had some evidence of grease in it before. I didn't have a zerk that would fit it - and couldn't find one at TSC; it fit a 5/16 bolt that I had but all of the zerks I could find had much finer threads than this bolt. I filled it the best I could with grease and then used the bolt to close it off.

The tiller is a beast! In ten minutes I got more tilled than I'd expect to do with a ton more labor with our rear-tine tiller. It hit a couple bigger rocks which spun the clutch but otherwise it just tore through the ground.

I'm still hoping to indentify the tiller as I think it would be useful to have skids, which I'm guessing go where those arms which have casters under them (broken). If all else fails, I'll look at some examples online and try to fab something with my meager metal skills...

You really need to get a zerk in that threaded hole, so you can apply grease under pressure.
You might try NAPA for the proper zerk fitting, though I think most are fine thread.
If not available, you could run a fine thread tap in the hole.

 

[Fallon]

You really need to get a zerk in that threaded hole, so you can apply grease under pressure.
You might try NAPA for the proper zerk fitting, though I think most are fine thread.
If not available, you could run a fine thread tap in the hole.

Yup.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DXD7WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7hsVCbRHZPSDZ

Get a metric & SAE assortment. Avalible off Amazon or any farm store for under $20 each. So worthwhile for general tractor maintnance. They break off, fall out or plug up. Easier to just replace them at a quarter or 2 a pop than to repair or unclog. Not to mention you can fit them as needed without a store run.

 

[powerscol]

The other end sure looks like an oil bath bearing, not a grease zerk. It just needs to be filled like the others and a plug installed. It probably had a rubber plug to start with that could pop out if excess heat and pressure occurred

Somewhere there should be a manufacturer plate. They can be hidden, possibly under the drive cover. Does the auction house have anything, even a serial number? With the upside down Y D markings I am guessing Korean or China. Is sure looks like a HD unit.