CT230 wont start fuel shut solenoid not moving

[k0ua]

I took the solenoid into work where we hooked up the maintain side to 12 volts, pulsed the pull in side. It pulled in and maintained twice then would not pull in anymore. It would not even spark like it was trying to pull in.

Ordered one from the local kioti dealer. Hopefully they were able to cross match the part number.

I suspect you are on your way to a repair.

 

[lstinthot]

I suspect you are on your way to a repair.

Fuel shutoff solenoid was the issue. Tractor works like it's supposed to now.

Part numbers
E6820-60011 solenoid
T2185-6938S001 wire harness adapter to go to 3 pin connector.

Total cost $128 and 30 minutes to put it in. Probably 2 hours troubleshooting.

Mike

 

[scubasteve12]

I have Bobcat ct230 with 500 hours on it I shut it off and it would not start again. My first thought was that I had ran it out of fuel. I got fuel filled it up and cranked it, no start. I then cracked the injectors cranked it till they got moist and tightened up and still no start. I discovered the issues with the injection pump breaking gears on Kioti tractors/fuel shut off solenoid on this site, checked the voltage to the solenoid and it is getting voltage when the key is on. I then popped off the covers to the injection pump and am able to slide the rack back and forth with with no binding or issue. I then checked the solenoid it did not retract I called up the Kioti dealer and order a new solenoid this came with an updated plug with 3 wires small striped, large stripped, and a black with eyelet on it that I assumed was a ground wire (was supposed to come with instructions). I wired the black wire up to the negative battery terminal easiest place to put it that would fit. Then matched up the other two striped wires based on size.

Put every thing back together still wouldn't start. I then took one the injector lines off completely at the top watched it as I cranked nothing came I pulled the top cover off of the injection pump above the solenoid. and watched while I turned on and cranked the tractor. The solenoid wasn't disengaging. It did it once but it happened so fast that I did not realize that it did till after I turned of the key this was also the only time it shot fuel out missed that too. I rechecked the voltage and the small wire is getting 11-12ish voltage and the large wire is getting 3 volts when I turn the key on.

I'm not really sure what to do next, any thoughts or suggestions would be great. I thinking of pulling the solenoid and seeing if I can get it to start or at least squirt fuel, and then killing the motor by plugging the air cleaner hose to rule out the injection pump.

I totally forgot about this thread...

After several hours and more than a few trips to the parts store, a new solenoid. I figured out it was the relay. I swapped out the relay it did not fix it, manually testing both old and new solenoids. I manually traced back the wires the relays had been swapped from the factory on the diagram in the manual what it showed as location my starter or turn signal relay, don't remember which" was actually my injector pump solenoid relay. So all the effort was because someone wasn't paying attention when the tractor was assembled.

 

[tman1020]

Mine was also incorrect in the manual.

 

[jamesrodneybookout]

The solenoid has 3 wires.. pull coil, hold coil and ground.

Pull coil is activated by the fuel relay on the firewall. It is a high current, about 28 amps short duration pulse, about 1 second. The relay on the firewall is activated by ground thrown from the display unit for a 1 second duration. This sends the 12 volts to the pull coil of the solenoid for that 1 second. This causes the solenoid to activate. The hold coil is on the 12 volt key buss and the low current of the hold coil (about .75 amps) is what holds this solenoid in. When you turn the key off the hold coil is de-energized. and the solenoid relaxes under spring pressure.

The number one cause of failure is the fuel relay on the firewall. There are dozens of these threads on this forum. The vast majority are solved by replacing the fuel relay on the firewall. I don't think a single one has been solved by replacing the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.

 

[jamesrodneybookout]

The solenoid has 3 wires.. pull coil, hold coil and ground.

Pull coil is activated by the fuel relay on the firewall. It is a high current, about 28 amps short duration pulse, about 1 second. The relay on the firewall is activated by ground thrown from the display unit for a 1 second duration. This sends the 12 volts to the pull coil of the solenoid for that 1 second. This causes the solenoid to activate. The hold coil is on the 12 volt key buss and the low current of the hold coil (about .75 amps) is what holds this solenoid in. When you turn the key off the hold coil is de-energized. and the solenoid relaxes under spring pressure.

The number one cause of failure is the fuel relay on the firewall. There are dozens of these threads on this forum. The vast majority are solved by replacing the fuel relay on the firewall. I don't think a single one has been solved by replacing the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.

have you ever had the timer go bad nmy problem is not the solenoid or the relay ?

 

[5030]

One thing I would do is make sure all your electrical connections are clean and bright and that includes Molex connectors. I pack all my connectors with di-electric grease, always. From butt connectors to gasketed Molex connectors and I make sure all the pins are clean and bright before packing and that includes the battery to starter connections as well as the main ground connections. I rarely, if ever have electrical issues.