Bush hog shaft frozen

[handirifle]

Idid wonder if drilling a few 1/8" dia holes in it to get penetrating oil farther back would hurt the shaft?

 

[Teachu2]

Idid wonder if drilling a few 1/8" dia holes in it to get penetrating oil farther back would hurt the shaft?

I wouldn't drill it. Are you using PB Blaster?

 

[Teachu2]

Idid wonder if drilling a few 1/8" dia holes in it to get penetrating oil farther back would hurt the shaft?

I wouldn't drill it. Are you using PB Blaster? https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Orig...=sem&msclkid=b00fbc41a4391aa81429e0829b5a2bbf

 

[handirifle]

Spyder
Are you saying rotate 180 from each other or 180 for both?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Spyder
Are you saying rotate 180 from each other or 180 for both?

Dont really know what is best. . . . I think I would rig it so both offsets were on the same side of the shaft and then change the offsets together to the other side. Back and forth. Then maybe step 90 degrees and go 180 back and forth from there. Bowing it sideways in comparison to the 1st positionings. You have a good setup. Keep using your ingenuity.

See if you can get a second person to hold a reaction mass opposite where you strike moderately with a 3 or 4# hammer. Direct blows are liable to dent the tube so use something like a lawnmower blade or thicker held against the shaft at your strike points. -- Im sure you know to wear gloves or itll sting the heck out of you.

Another thot: You have probably moved it outward microscopically- so, during each chain relax&reorientation deliver a blow in the opposite [inward] direction. Reaction mass on the other end/yoke is important here too. ... For max effect and to lessen bearing abuse.

 

[Oldoak]

Yes -- and glowing red will anneal the shaft, not to mention cooking lubricants to lacquer. - - - Clean the metal surface and look for a surface change from clean silver to straw-brown. Bluing happens next. There and up is the danger. You can ruin the shaft.

Exactly! There is a science to using heat. Not exact science, but still. And the quicker you heat the outer shaft the better, before the inner shaft has a chance to absorb a lot of heat. Once the inner shaft gets almost as hot as the outer shaft, forget it and let all cool down to ambient temperature before doing anything else.

When ever I had similar situations when a lot of heat or rapid heating was required, I always used a oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch with a rosebud.

 

[Andito]

By the time you buy a can of every single persons “this is the penetrating oil I swear by” you likely could have bought a new pro shaft! But here’s my chance to tell you mine. You’d be much better off if you get the shaft off the mower With that being said, try spraying “Aerokroil” (here’s a link Penetrating-Lubricating Oils ) I think you should be able to get it from Home Depot. see if you can alternate between trying to pull apart and then compressing. If you can get it to move either direction then you should get it no problem.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Exactly! There is a science to using heat. Not exact science, but still. And the quicker you heat the outer shaft the better, before the inner shaft has a chance to absorb a lot of heat. Once the inner shaft gets almost as hot as the outer shaft, forget it and let all cool down to ambient temperature before doing anything else.

When ever I had similar situations when a lot of heat or rapid heating was required, I always used a oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane torch with a rosebud.

Yes! Heat it fast no further than blue. Tap on it some - then cool it fast with a blast of water. This will affect the outer tube first and it will try to move stressing the rusty interface between the 2 shafts. The real chance for a gross move is during the heating but dont waste the quick cooling shock. Every tiny relative movement puts you closer to a slide.

 

[handirifle]

Ok SUCCESS! Finally. What I ended up using was something my brother in law learned from some aircraft builders he hangs with. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I worked a bunch of that in, waited an hour or so, and after multiple slams with the truck and chain, still no go. So I heated the snot out of the whole shaft. Now bear in mind, this is a propane weed burning torch. Not enough heat to get anywhere near red or blue, but after heating the entire length, and a few more slams I heard something different. A quick look told me it had moved a couple inches. For the record, a SLAM is back the truck up to let the shaft drop to the ground, then put in drive and idle it forward, till the chains snap tight. This is my 7200lb 4wd diesel truck and that hit it pretty hard.

With all that still too 4-5 more slams to break it apart. What I discovered was it was nearly fully compressed. Only about 2" short of full compression. As it turns out I had to cut about 4" off the inner shaft to fit it to my tractor PTO. Took it out and gave it a go in one of my fields. The mower works fine, but my poor little MF1010 is on its last legs, sadly. Overheating often (I think its a blown head gasket) and SOO much blowby its embarrassing.

Thanks to all for the encouragement and advice. I always know there are many decades of experience here on this site.

 

[handirifle]

The tractor has been pretty much like that since I bought it about 8 years ago, or so. Just not sure its worth putting the money into since there is a list of other issues it has as well. It had been abused when I bought it and I have nursed it along so far.