Rounded off drain plug

[goeduck]

Almost 1700

 

[4get gto]

Almost 1700

Hope it don't go on much longer. Have to have its own web site soon...!

 

[Fuddy1952]

At this point I would remove the cross bar since it's in the way. You can't do anything the way it is now.
Then I would wash the underside...engine cleaner, detergent, brush and hose it off. Let it sit a couple days. This way you've got a clean dry space to work.
Try a little heat, try those pliers. If it doesn't work, grind whatever is left flat with transmission case.
Carefully center punch it...exact center.
You can magnetize a drill bit by rubbing it on a strong magnet in one direction.
Start small working up to correct drill size for the tap. Magnetic drill bits will catch most shavings. Pan to catch fluid.
Tap it, use oil on tap.
Flush transmission. Start new plug by hand, kerosene should be fine. Pull plug and drain. Plug back in...a few quarts of new trans fluid...drain that.
Finally, new plug back in, tightened properly, new trans fluid, correct amount.
Reinstall cross bar.

 

[bullbreaker]

Relax some of you's just been counting posts but this thread started on 03/30/2018 . FWI it took 107 years to almost complete The Tower of Babel !!! So imo most of us will see this completed in our life time if thread does not get closed (hope not) . I admire Kando for at least hanging in there with the thread, and chimeing in . Weaker men would have crumbled or hid !!! I said it before and will repeat it , whatever route you decide to keep attempting to remove drain plug wear gloves and eye protection . BTW this is my third post on this thread i believe ?

 

[dnw64]

Nice. The heat from welding on the box end wrench probably helped :thumbsup:

First attempt with (unwelded) wrench was applying heat with a torch. But maybe the third heat/cool cycle was a contributing factor. I mostly was amazed at how tenacious he was. Reminds me of myself in my younger days!

 

[jaxs]

The existing visible threads are all of 1/4 inch or less of space to grip. The problem previously, as has been stated, is that there was never enough proper grip. Every attempt simply sheared more material off, hence moving in a different direction. Flat edges for grip with flat edge tools. Trying the pipe wrenches after grinding flats was an attempt on a slightly better surface to actually be able to tighten the jaws enough to not simply slide around or shear material.

I can't speak for everyone but I never realized wrench flats were only 1/4th inch deep to begin with. Was that clear at the onset? If all nuts,bolts and plugs only had 1/4tr inch of flat,few if any tools,including late night infomercial tools would work if stubborn when it was new,much less after it's buggered up. It's no sin or crime to hire someone with more experience and tools.

 

[Kando]

I can't speak for everyone but I never realized wrench flats were only 1/4th inch deep to begin with. Was that clear at the onset? If all nuts,bolts and plugs only had 1/4tr inch of flat,few if any tools,including late night infomercial tools would work if stubborn when it was new,much less after it's buggered up. It's no sin or crime to hire someone with more experience and tools.

Re-read. The visible threads are only 1/4 inch or less of space, from the pan to the actual square head itself. The plugs on this tractor, and my 5000 do not thread in completely. Some threads are still visible. The visible portion of threaded area is only about 1/4 inch. The square head itself is about 1/2 to 9/16 inch from the threaded portion to the end of the head. The head is what I ground flats on, as there is actually space to grip on that as it isn't up again the bottom of the tractor itself, unlike the threaded portion of the plug.

 

[Kando]

I can't speak for everyone but I never realized wrench flats were only 1/4th inch deep to begin with. Was that clear at the onset? If all nuts,bolts and plugs only had 1/4tr inch of flat,few if any tools,including late night infomercial tools would work if stubborn when it was new,much less after it's buggered up. It's no sin or crime to hire someone with more experience and tools.

Re-read. The visible threads are only 1/4 inch or less of space, from the pan to the actual square head itself. The plugs on this tractor, and my 5000 do not thread in completely. Some threads are still visible. The visible portion of threaded area is only about 1/4 inch. The square head itself is about 1/2 to 9/16 inch from the threaded portion to the end of the head. The head is what I ground flats on, as there is actually space to grip on that as it isn't up again the bottom of the tractor itself, unlike the threaded portion of the plug.

 

[Xfaxman]

The existing visible threads are all of 1/4 inch or less of space to grip. The problem previously, as has been stated, is that there was never enough proper grip. Every attempt simply sheared more material off, hence moving in a different direction. Flat edges for grip with flat edge tools. Trying the pipe wrenches after grinding flats was an attempt on a slightly better surface to actually be able to tighten the jaws enough to not simply slide around or shear material.

I can't speak for everyone but I never realized wrench flats were only 1/4th inch deep to begin with. Was that clear at the onset? If all nuts,bolts and plugs only had 1/4tr inch of flat,few if any tools,including late night infomercial tools would work if stubborn when it was new,much less after it's buggered up. It's no sin or crime to hire someone with more experience and tools.

Kando said "visible threads" not "wrench flats". It is a pipe thread plug, the flats are rounded off. The 1/4 inch of threads that are showing are what he mentioned to grip.

This picture that was re-posted just 5 days ago, shows the threads:

 

[SPYDERLK]

The existing visible threads are all of 1/4 inch or less of space to grip. The problem previously, as has been stated, is that there was never enough proper grip. Every attempt simply sheared more material off, hence moving in a different direction. Flat edges for grip with flat edge tools. Trying the pipe wrenches after grinding flats was an attempt on a slightly better surface to actually be able to tighten the jaws enough to not simply slide around or shear material.

Re-read. The visible threads are only 1/4 inch or less of space, from the pan to the actual square head itself. The plugs on this tractor, and my 5000 do not thread in completely. Some threads are still visible. The visible portion of threaded area is only about 1/4 inch. The square head itself is about 1/2 to 9/16 inch from the threaded portion to the end of the head. The head is what I ground flats on, as there is actually space to grip on that as it isn't up again the bottom of the tractor itself, unlike the threaded portion of the plug.

Getting more and more too late​

Grind/file the whole exposed part of the plug parallel down to the root dia on just 2 sides. Dont cut into the root much. The root wrench surface is getting too small. Youre looking at twist off time.

Use a Crescent that will fully engage the faces to gauge // -- and then to take it out. You get 1 try.