New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D

   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D #11  
"you guys are right. . .mine is opposite of what it should be so forward is going up."

Was going to comment that historically on FEL or aircraft a joystick is forward/down, rearward/up, (push the nose down or pull it up.), but now confused as to what you have.
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D
  • Thread Starter
#12  
"you guys are right. . .mine is opposite of what it should be so forward is going up."

Was going to comment that historically on FEL or aircraft a joystick is forward/down, rearward/up, (push the nose down or pull it up.), but now confused as to what you have.

Mine is backwards to what it should be...forward is up and backward is down. I want to reverse them so they are correct. My original post was wrong. Sorry for the confusion.
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D #13  
I have a 2210BD and these shift patterns labels are ones I got from Hoye. C means crawl and it is slowwww. FYI: This tractor also does NOT have an internal over-running clutch for the PTO shaft and I have heard that the momentum of the rotating mower blades with drive the tractor forward even though the clutch is depressed. Multiple posts here have warned to use an external over-running clutch unit between the PTO output shaft and implement drive shaft. I have always run an external unit on mine so I don't have any bad experience to report due to the over-run. 2210BD Shift Pattern.jpg
Steve
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D #14  
Skold, you need to check your private messages.
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D #16  
Sorry I didn't get to respond to any of these questions, was out of town working this weekend. Those are the correct shift patterns for the 2210D.
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Sorry I didn't get to respond to any of these questions, was out of town working this weekend. Those are the correct shift patterns for the 2210D.

Thank you for confirming. I think I've figured it out.
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D
  • Thread Starter
#18  
One thing I need to figure out is the oil light coming on once I've worked the tractor for about 15-30 minutes...happens every time. From other threads, it sounds like I need to buy a pressure gauge from an auto parts store and get a new OEM oil pressure switch/sending unit. Would one of you pros mind posting links to examples of both parts needed? I don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks in advance!
 
   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D #19  
One thing I need to figure out is the oil light coming on once I've worked the tractor for about 15-30 minutes...happens every time. From other threads, it sounds like I need to buy a pressure gauge from an auto parts store and get a new OEM oil pressure switch/sending unit. Would one of you pros mind posting links to examples of both parts needed? I don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks in advance!

So my oil light was not coming on but I still wanted to know what my actual pressure was doing so I installed a gauge, and kept the oil light. I've attached a few pics to show how I did it. You'll need to remove the current sending unit from where it threads into the block and install a tee fitting into the block. Be advised that the threads on the sending unit and in the block ARE NOT standard American Pipe Threads! If you try to screw a 1/8' NPT fitting into the block, it will go in but it will forever damage the threads in the block, and probably leak. The threads in the block are British pipe threads and have a different included angle on the thread form themselves and a slightly different pitch. You will need to get a tee (from Hoye, or Amazon) that has British male threads, the straight port will be British female pipe threads, and the 90 degree port will be 1/8 american pipe female. Refer to the photos but basically you can then install the tee into the block, then the sending unit will screw into the straight port, and the oil pressure gauge capillary fitting will screw into the 90 degree port and then you'll just have to route the capillary tube and figure out how you want to mount the gauge. With this set-up, you'll not only be able to see your actual pressure, you'll know if you have a bad sending unit. If it is bad, then you can get the correct one from Hoye. Hope this helps. As a reference, when I am running the tractor on a hot day with the brush hog, I run about 50 psi at PTO speed and about 15-20 psi at idle after a long run with everything hot. You should be close to that range.
 

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   / New to me Yanmar 2210D...and I have questions! :D
  • Thread Starter
#20  
So my oil light was not coming on but I still wanted to know what my actual pressure was doing so I installed a gauge, and kept the oil light. I've attached a few pics to show how I did it. You'll need to remove the current sending unit from where it threads into the block and install a tee fitting into the block. Be advised that the threads on the sending unit and in the block ARE NOT standard American Pipe Threads! If you try to screw a 1/8' NPT fitting into the block, it will go in but it will forever damage the threads in the block, and probably leak. The threads in the block are British pipe threads and have a different included angle on the thread form themselves and a slightly different pitch. You will need to get a tee (from Hoye, or Amazon) that has British male threads, the straight port will be British female pipe threads, and the 90 degree port will be 1/8 american pipe female. Refer to the photos but basically you can then install the tee into the block, then the sending unit will screw into the straight port, and the oil pressure gauge capillary fitting will screw into the 90 degree port and then you'll just have to route the capillary tube and figure out how you want to mount the gauge. With this set-up, you'll not only be able to see your actual pressure, you'll know if you have a bad sending unit. If it is bad, then you can get the correct one from Hoye. Hope this helps. As a reference, when I am running the tractor on a hot day with the brush hog, I run about 50 psi at PTO speed and about 15-20 psi at idle after a long run with everything hot. You should be close to that range.


This looks like an excellent first step in troubleshooting and mod for long term benefit as well. Thank you for writing this up. Would you mind posting Amazon links to all of the parts I'd need? I don't want to get the wrong thing and mess something up. Thanks again!

By the way, I was able to switch the hydraulic ports and now the loader controls are functioning correctly. I think whoever messed with them last had just put them back on reversed.
 

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