Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design

   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #131  
Not if they used schedule 80 pipe for those skids. Everything adds to the cost. How much are people willing to pay?

Although rotary cutters should not be riding on any skids. Rotary cutters should be properly adjusted so they they are not continuously dragging on the ground.

Bingo! Also parallel to the ground.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #132  
Having the rear slightly elevated helps the discharge. I agree, the whole unit should be slightly elevated, but those front skids some into play when the tractor is rocking and rolling on uneven terrain. That is why a shallow angle to the front skids would be nice.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
  • Thread Starter
#133  
Everything that you wrote is important. I am checking everyday and considering. Thank you for your support !
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #134  
"7. Smooth underside to facilitate cleaning and minimize debris buildup and corrosion."

Is there any other reason for 7 ? How important is the smooth underside from 1 to 10? Smooth underside & strong deck is a real challange. Hard to accomplish both. Consider woods, they have a strong deck but don't have smooth underside.

You have a dilemma here. In order to make the deck strong, you need the structural members and forming. Your choice is to put those on the top allowing a smooth underside or underneath allowing a smooth top side. I would think for performance, the smooth underside is better. But from a marketing and aesthetic standpoint, I'd bet people prefer the look of the smooth topside. There's pro's and con's to both. My Landpride has a smooth top and it's benefit is when it's stored outside, debris and rain don't collect in any non draining pockets from structural members. I also have a Rhino that's the opposite and it has some pockets that collect rainwater on the topside, so I store that one standing up.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #135  
You have a dilemma here. In order to make the deck strong, you need the structural members and forming. Your choice is to put those on the top allowing a smooth underside or underneath allowing a smooth top side. I would think for performance, the smooth underside is better. But from a marketing and aesthetic standpoint, I'd bet people prefer the look of the smooth topside. There's pro's and con's to both. My Landpride has a smooth top and it's benefit is when it's stored outside, debris and rain don't collect in any non draining pockets from structural members. I also have a Rhino that's the opposite and it has some pockets that collect rainwater on the topside, so I store that one standing up.

So put the structural members on top so the bottom can be smooth but place strategic openings/cut outs in the the reinforcements so water could drain. As for debris blocking up the drains, use a leaf blower to clean off the top when finished with it. That is what I do with my King Kutter to help it dry better in those areas where water is retained by the reinforcements. Of course the best is to keep em' inside when stored if you have the space.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #136  
My mower is smooth on the bottom with structural members on top with cut outs for the water to drain. It will accumulate debris but it's not a big deal. It easy to clean with a blower or something.

We run our brush mowers hard. Use them as true brush mowers and not a finish mower. Having a tail wheel, would mean that it would be destroyed in a matter of a couple hours. We back these things up close to walls, trees and some hidden stuff that we can't even see. These mowers are built simpler and strong.

Most manufacturers will offer 3 model ranges:

Light duty usually built with 1/4" thick steel.
Medium duty usually built with 5/16" thick steel
And Heavy duty built with 3/8" or more thick steel.

As far as prices, mine is a light duty (which is still really strong) 4.5 ft and cost me about 700$

IMG_20171005_133944.jpg
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
  • Thread Starter
#137  
Thank you all for brain storm.

1) Would you prefer rotary cutter which has painted over coating ? For example cataphoresis coating. (just an idea, i haven't done research for cost)
2) Rounded deck is a plus for choosen. How about rhino ? TW series of rhino don't have rounded deck, also they are not using structural member(tube) for strong rear side, but rhino sells a lot. Can we say rounded deck is not a must as long as you turn around trees etc. without problem?
3) Some models have a rear side rounded sheet metal guard. It bends and blocking discharge most of the time. What do you thing about rounded sheet metal guard ? I suppose chain is the only and best option.
4) I know you all want front guide wheels, ıt might be good for grass or pasture areas. However, it would be a weak point for heavy duty, because of the roots and other tree parts. What do you think ?

Editted.
 
Last edited:
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #138  
Thank you all for brain storm.

1) Would you prefer rotary cutter which has coated deck before painting ? For example cataphoresis coating. (just an idea, i haven't done research for cost) I prefer paint, for best blend of durability and repair/touch up.
2) Rounded deck is a plus for choosen. How about rhino ? TW series of rhino don't have rounded deck, also they are not using structural member(tube) for strong rear side, but rhino sells a lot. Can we say rounded deck is not a must as long as you turn around trees etc. without problem? Rounded back end fits shape of blade and makes it much easier to maneuver around obstacles.
3) Some models have a rear side rounded sheet metal guard. It bends and blocking discharge most of the time. What do you thing about rounded sheet metal guard ? I suppose chain is the only and best option. I prefer chains or no guard. The solid guards get damaged immediately in my use.
4) I know you all want guide wheels, ıt might be good for grass or pasture areas. However, it would be a weak point for heavy duty, because of the roots and other tree parts. What do you think?
(This answer is for tail wheels. I don't favor front guide wheels) I always use tail wheels even when backing into heavy brush and trees. I even use the tail wheel to catch or trap trees, holding them in place as I back over them so they don't slide off to the side. Thin wire-like grass does more damage to the wheels (bearings) than trees do for me. The tail wheels can usually be removed with a few bolts anyway, so the option is already there for the minority who don't want them at times.

My opinions in bold above.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
  • Thread Starter
#139  
My opinions in bold above.

Thank you,

I think there are two misunderstanding;

1) I meant painted over cataphoresis.
4) I meant front guide wheels.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #140  
Thank you,

I think there are two misunderstanding;

1) I meant painted over cataphoresis.
4) I meant front guide wheels.

I thought you meant powder coated, so I agree painted over cataphoresis is a bonus. I realized you said guide wheels after I typed my tail wheel response, so I edited to clarify. While I can see guide wheels are nice for finish cutting, I would rather have good replaceable skids for a rotary cutter. Even non-replaceable are fine, as I have welded new pads on the leading edges when they get worn after years of use.
 
 

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