Pro Loggers - More advice needed

[bcp]

I would nibble at the upright part with my pole chain saw from about 10 feet away. Maybe cut the top half of the tree off first.

Bruce

 

[LD48750]

I would nibble at the upright part with my pole chain saw from about 10 feet away. Maybe cut the top half of the tree off first.

Bruce

IF I had a pole saw, I might have tried that but.......I don't.

 

[MossRoad]

Amateur tree cutter here... I've done about 50-60 trees per year for the past 10 years for firewood. Most 1/2 the diameter of that. But the same principles apply when a tree gets hung up, or I'm clearing wind downed trees. Just giving some examples and disclaiming any suggestion that I know what I'm doing or giving advice. So there you go. :laughing:

If it was my place and me doing the work, I'd start way over at the far right of that picture, and as others have mentioned, I'd start cutting from the top of the tree and work my way towards the stump. I'd do all of the cuts on the main stem from the underside, as the top of the tree is putting pressure on the upper side of the stem. Underside cuts will open naturally and not pinch the bar as the stem falls down to the ground with each undercut. Watch my feet, and watch for possible rolling of the main stem. Work slow and methodically, etc.... I'd make cuts about every 4' and keep dropping the main stem to the ground with each cut. Eventually, it would get to a point where that shattered part of the stem will not fall any further down, and that's when I'd tackle the main trunk like a normal tree, and again, as someone mentioned, I might wrap a chain around the shattered main trunk to keep it from shattering any much further.

Anyhow, if you're not comfortable doing it, you could always try and pull it over with a tractor, truck, winch, come alongs, cables, etc... or hire someone to drop it for you.

Good luck with your project. Take your time and think if over. :thumbsup:

 

[Gordon Gould]

It is impossible to say from a photo. But this is what I MIGHT do. I agree to start cutting, or simplifying the top, but after each cut you need to assess what is happening and where the pressure is. In the end when you finally cut the butt you want the top supported by the ground but free to roll sideways and not trying to spring up and back against the vertical section. You don't want the top hanging out up off the ground. I would not keep cutting the top off until it was off the ground and I couldn't reach any higher because if it stayed at an angle, or it could even start to rise at some point, it would put a lot of stress like a leaner on the splintered butt where you need to eventually cut. But if the top just continues to fold and rest on the ground keep cutting. To me the ideal would be for the top to be folded and near hanging vertical but resting lightly on the ground. When I got it to an inverted 'V' with the top resting on the ground and not springing back I would cut the butt so the whole thing fell sideways towards the viewer or perpendicular to the plane of the 'V' if it rotates when you free the top. The notch would be on the side so there is some solid wood and it should not act like a leaner , NOW, this would be my original plan and would have to be continually reassessed. If you are not sure or confident that you can recognize what is happening pressure wise there is no shame in getting help.

This is just what I think I would do from the photo - at best it gives you some things to think about the same as the rest of the advise.

gg

 

[CalG]

Half the butt is just ugliness, I might cut that away first just to make the job less "vicious".

Then , as mentioned by others, start cutting the "tree" to the far right until the "hinge" up high starts to hold back the droop. You don't want stress!

Then waist what is left of the butt on both sides 90 degrees to the stem . Pull the thing over toward the camera spot with a cable and tractor. Use the saw tip to make a series of nicks for this cut to avoid pinching the bar.

Clean up the mess. ;-)

 

[CobyRupert]

Half the butt is just ugliness, I might cut that away first just to make the job less "vicious".

Clean up the mess. ;-)

His ugly butt (lol) will likely keep the trunk stable as he’s making it into a small log from the top end.
I’d only cut the butt end when far end makes you raise saw up too high to cut. And then I’d only cut it enough (not completely through) to s.l.o.w.l.y. lower the far end again. If possible.

I’d say there is an argument to notch the butt end initially when the trunk’s far end is on the ground as there will be less stress in it than when it is hanging in the air. Then do the backcut(s) later.

 

[3Lfarms]

I don’t know what I would do, but know what my grandfather would have done back in the day...dynamite.

That tree would have been toothpicks.

 

[CalG]

His ugly butt (lol) will likely keep the trunk stable as he’s making it into a small log from the top end.
I’d only cut the butt end when far end makes you raise saw up too high to cut. And then I’d only cut it enough (not completely through) to s.l.o.w.l.y. lower the far end again. If possible.

I’d say there is an argument to notch the butt end initially when the trunk’s far end is on the ground as there will be less stress in it than when it is hanging in the air. Then do the backcut(s) later.

The ugliness I see is not providing any material support for what is left. If in doubt, move up the trunk 8 inches.
The Tree has split off the left side of the butt. Get rid of it early so as not to confuse the more critical work.

I would not make any saw cuts near the ground until that top hamper was resting on terra firma.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Cutting the ugliness first to get it out of the way makes some sense, maybe, but I am not sure I would want to make my first exploratory cuts with that splintered hinge 10' over my head. The tree does not look big in the picture. They usually don't. But he did say it was 2' in diameter so it needs some respect I would think.

gg

 

[LD48750]

Amateur tree cutter here... I've done about 50-60 trees per year for the past 10 years for firewood. Most 1/2 the diameter of that. But the same principles apply when a tree gets hung up, or I'm clearing wind downed trees. Just giving some examples and disclaiming any suggestion that I know what I'm doing or giving advice. So there you go. :laughing:

I've been playing with chainsaws for the last 45 or so years. At one time I used to buy firewood clear cuts from the Fed. Gov.
I've had my share of hang ups & leaners but never a barber chair or split like this.

If it was my place and me doing the work, I'd start way over at the far right of that picture, and as others have mentioned, I'd start cutting from the top of the tree and work my way towards the stump. I'd do all of the cuts on the main stem from the underside, as the top of the tree is putting pressure on the upper side of the stem. Underside cuts will open naturally and not pinch the bar as the stem falls down to the ground with each undercut. Watch my feet, and watch for possible rolling of the main stem. Work slow and methodically, etc.... I'd make cuts about every 4' and keep dropping the main stem to the ground with each cut. Eventually, it would get to a point where that shattered part of the stem will not fall any further down, and that's when I'd tackle the main trunk like a normal tree, and again, as someone mentioned, I might wrap a chain around the shattered main trunk to keep it from shattering any much further. I like that idea.

Anyhow, if you're not comfortable doing it, you could always try and pull it over with a tractor, truck, winch, come alongs, cables, etc... or hire someone to drop it for you.

Good luck with your project. Take your time and think if over. :thumbsup:

I've got a LOT more time then money now that I'm retired and I am using it.

It is impossible to say from a photo. But this is what I MIGHT do. I agree to start cutting, or simplifying the top, but after each cut you need to assess what is happening and where the pressure is. In the end when you finally cut the butt you want the top supported by the ground but free to roll sideways and not trying to spring up and back against the vertical section. You don't want the top hanging out up off the ground. I would not keep cutting the top off until it was off the ground and I couldn't reach any higher because if it stayed at an angle, or it could even start to rise at some point, it would put a lot of stress like a leaner on the splintered butt where you need to eventually cut. But if the top just continues to fold and rest on the ground keep cutting. To me the ideal would be for the top to be folded and near hanging vertical but resting lightly on the ground. When I got it to an inverted 'V' with the top resting on the ground and not springing back I would cut the butt so the whole thing fell sideways towards the viewer or perpendicular to the plane of the 'V' if it rotates when you free the top. The notch would be on the side so there is some solid wood and it should not act like a leaner , NOW, this would be my original plan and would have to be continually reassessed. If you are not sure or confident that you can recognize what is happening pressure wise there is no shame in getting help.
That's why I came here. I'm sure I can get it done but just wanted to get some other eyes on it & pointers from those more experienced then I.
This is just what I think I would do from the photo - at best it gives you some things to think about the same as the rest of the advise.

gg

And I thank you for that.

Half the butt is just ugliness, I might cut that away first just to make the job less "vicious".

Then , as mentioned by others, start cutting the "tree" to the far right until the "hinge" up high starts to hold back the droop. You don't want stress!

Then waist what is left of the butt on both sides 90 degrees to the stem . Pull the thing over toward the camera spot with a cable and tractor. Use the saw tip to make a series of nicks for this cut to avoid pinching the bar.

Clean up the mess. ;-)

This might be a place where my HF 12k winch with the remote control comes in handy.

His ugly butt (lol) will likely keep the trunk stable as he’s making it into a small log from the top end.
I’d only cut the butt end when far end makes you raise saw up too high to cut. And then I’d only cut it enough (not completely through) to s.l.o.w.l.y. lower the far end again. If possible.

I’d say there is an argument to notch the butt end initially when the trunk’s far end is on the ground as there will be less stress in it than when it is hanging in the air. Then do the backcut(s) later.

The split goes all the way to the ground on the one side, cutting the trunk is going to be a wait & see how things are going.

I don’t know what I would do, but know what my grandfather would have done back in the day...dynamite.

That tree would have been toothpicks.

Now THAT is a GREAT idea that sounds like FUN.
Too bad it isn't legal here anymore.

Thanks again for all the thoughts, keep them coming, it'll be a few days before I get into the trunk yet so I have time to learn more.