Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage?

   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage? #21  
The next issue is going to be with all the negative publicity associated with roundup, how long before on a widespread local level of lack of purchase of a product before it retailers remove it from shelf space. If it does sell it is taking up real estate that will be turned over to products that move—the nature of brick and mortar retail! If sells drop enough, Monsanto will stop production or at least greatly reduce production. My family members that commercial farm for a living already have moved from roundup due to it leaching in the ground. They spray a ditch bank and it leaches to the crop, so that market is leaving.
Will it ever go away completely—I do not know, but it may only be available to licensed applicators in bulk purchase due to bad press and public reaction.

It does not move in the soil. It may leach to ground water but it does not translocate from soil to crop. The exception to this is they they are seeing soil activity up at the upper end of the rate or basically at the upper end or over the label rate for annual application rate. I have not heard it moving through soil but more sterilizing the soil for a period where sprayed. So if they are over applicating or not following the label I believe this story. If they follow the label I do not buy it one bit. Remember you need to read, know and follow your label, not just do what someone tells you or your neighbor does or what you have always done, unless it's from the label. There are many contradicting parts of a label, you must know them all and if have questions pick up the phone and call the number on the label or send an email. They are very helpful and will get back to you.
 
   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage? #22  
It does not move in the soil. It may leach to ground water but it does not translocate from soil to crop. The exception to this is they they are seeing soil activity up at the upper end of the rate or basically at the upper end or over the label rate for annual application rate. I have not heard it moving through soil but more sterilizing the soil for a period where sprayed. So if they are over applicating or not following the label I believe this story. If they follow the label I do not buy it one bit. Remember you need to read, know and follow your label, not just do what someone tells you or your neighbor does or what you have always done, unless it's from the label. There are many contradicting parts of a label, you must know them all and if have questions pick up the phone and call the number on the label or send an email. They are very helpful and will get back to you.

When you say it dies not move in soul but may leach in ground water, you are at best splitting hairs at worse contradicting yourself!
I guess if you move your soil to an environment will it will never be exposed to moisture you can keep it in one spot. But you have defeated the purpose of soil as without moisture it will will not grow anything including weeds so you have no need for roundup or any other herbicide.
In the real word moves. Perhaps it is a function of water, but that is the real world—soil and ground water are like blood and oxygen!
 
   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage? #23  
Ok I did say those two things, but here is the deal with glyphosate. Soul organisms break it down at the labeled rates in a short period of time. It can move in soil a bit. Glyphosate is a foliar applied herbicide, it has to hit green, either leaves or a soft green stem (not bark) and is translocated (systemic) through the leaves thought the plant, to the roots and kills the whole plant. It does not work the other way (there is an exception to this, I'll address later) it can not be absorbed through the roots to the plant to kill it so once in the soil it is bound up(with certain soil types and aquifers it can get to ground water, there's always exceptions but most of this is through surface runoff) , broken down, and not available to plants as a herbicide. This is why you can spray the base of trees, kill weeds and not harm the tree, or this is why you can spray between rows of non round up ready crops and not kill crops (I'm talking hand application in garden not huge agricultural application.). Ok now to the exception. There was a study just released last week from somewhere in Scandinavia, Norway maybe?? But it talked about the breakdown of glyphosate and its effect on soil fertility and quality. Long story short it basically found that it had not negative impacts. But did mention slight soil activity at the upper levels of label and over label rates (illegal) in northern colder climates. I have heard this also from non scientific studies from people I deal with in my field. Most of these sites are probably applied over the max label rate per acre per year so again, not herbicide fault but label misuse. How and where am I talking. I deal with folks that deal with highly manicured areas (not golf courses or fancy subdivisions) and say a fence line or grass edge that they want clear of vegitation. They spray it every few weeks to kill weeds, while not at the max rate in the dilution, the amount sprayed per linear foot and the application amounts per season lead to upper and over rate application and this is where the soil activity is seen.
 
   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Talk about a thread derail... lol! I ended up buying a small skid steer and sold the Yanmar 336D and grader blade. Hope to own another some day.

No Glyphosate will be used on my property... but I don't need to keep it flawless just mowed and weed trimmed. I usually avoid wasp sprays as well. It all adds up.
 
   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage? #25  
Ok I did say those two things, but here is the deal with glyphosate. Soul organisms break it down at the labeled rates in a short period of time. It can move in soil a bit. Glyphosate is a foliar applied herbicide, it has to hit green, either leaves or a soft green stem (not bark) and is translocated (systemic) through the leaves thought the plant, to the roots and kills the whole plant. It does not work the other way (there is an exception to this, I'll address later) it can not be absorbed through the roots to the plant to kill it so once in the soil it is bound up(with certain soil types and aquifers it can get to ground water, there's always exceptions but most of this is through surface runoff) , broken down, and not available to plants as a herbicide. This is why you can spray the base of trees, kill weeds and not harm the tree, or this is why you can spray between rows of non round up ready crops and not kill crops (I'm talking hand application in garden not huge agricultural application.). Ok now to the exception. There was a study just released last week from somewhere in Scandinavia, Norway maybe?? But it talked about the breakdown of glyphosate and its effect on soil fertility and quality. Long story short it basically found that it had not negative impacts. But did mention slight soil activity at the upper levels of label and over label rates (illegal) in northern colder climates. I have heard this also from non scientific studies from people I deal with in my field. Most of these sites are probably applied over the max label rate per acre per year so again, not herbicide fault but label misuse. How and where am I talking. I deal with folks that deal with highly manicured areas (not golf courses or fancy subdivisions) and say a fence line or grass edge that they want clear of vegitation. They spray it every few weeks to kill weeds, while not at the max rate in the dilution, the amount sprayed per linear foot and the application amounts per season lead to upper and over rate application and this is where the soil activity is seen.

You really need to proof read what you write. Few herbicides that work on yard weeds affect woody plants. So your base of the tree for weeds is apples and oranges.
One would believe that you work for Bayer as a sale mans the way you spin a story.
 
   / Best implement to make small adjustments in grade (say 1 to 2 feet) and drainage? #26  
Imazapyr will kill trees dead as a hammer and it is also used as "season long" killer for drives and around barns and such. It's in some stuff you can buy at Walmart and TSC etc.

And yes sorry I am a terrible and often do not proof read. And to make it worse my phone auto corrects to off the wall stuff sometimes.

And no I promise you I do not sell nor have I ever sold pesticides nor ever worked for a chemical company. I am however a licensed Forester and herbicide applicator. I encourage anyone to read their label and not trust what anyone says on the internet unless it's straight off a chemical companies website referencing the label. The label is the law.
 

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