L6060 Breakin Procedure

[Hilbilly]

I've read a few threads on the topic and looks like there are almost as many opinions as there are owners. I read the owners manual and see the statements about not operating the tractor at full speed for the first 50 hrs, don't operate the tractor at fast speed, don't run engine faster than necessary and do not start quickly or apply brakes suddenly. So what does all that mean in real life terms? Do I idle it for 50 hrs? How fast is too fast? Is there a max engine rpm during the breakin period? Not very clear in my opinion.

I have 38 hrs on the tractor now and have been using the auto throttle advance with the engine set at idle speed. I have not run the engine to PTO speed yet but after about 25 hrs I started running it up to 2000 rpm to use my PTO chipper. I let it warm up before I do any light work with it and I've generally been very easy on it.

What I find odd is that when I brought this up with the dealers salesman he said I should run it like I stole it and that it was very bad for diesel engines to be babied. He said they sell a lot of high hp tractors to farmers and the first thing they do with them is put them to work. The one thing I did not like is when he was showing me the features on the tractor and used the throttle up button and ran the engine up to full throttle when it only had 0.2hrs on it. Anyways back to the topic.

Whats even more odd is that the 2008 Massey 1547 tractor that I bought, with an Iseki engine, had a totally different approach. The owners manual stated the tractor should be warmed up and then run at PTO speed for the first 50 hrs. I don't recall if it stated the tractor should be worked or not.

I guess I will eventually find out if the process I used was ok or not.

 

[BRMyers]

I have run my tractor no harder than what I needed to be able to get the work done. If that is PTO speed of 2,000+RPMs then it gets run at that until I'm done with the task. I don't stress it anymore than what I need to get the task done.

 

[skipperbrown]

I operate my new equipment as I would normally but I don't labor the engine and take it easy. For instance, if mowing (at PTO speed) and I hit a thick patch and the rpms start to drop and the engine begins to strain under the load, I don't push the engine by throttling up. Rather, I slow down so the engine quickly gets back to PTO rpms and then proceed more slowly. I have never run new equipment "like I stole it". Parts are still wearing in. Different strokes for different folks.

 

[TripleR]

I find the term run it like you stole it as nebulous as if not more-so than the manual. I found I could work a machine pretty close to the way I use them anyway. 540 PTO speed is below full speed. I don't run at the same RPM for extended periods; occasionally drop down to low RPM before resuming norml operations. I did not abuse or baby any of our tractors. As with any turbo, give it time to cool down before shutting it down.

These are tough machines and I seriously doubt you will see noticeable damage for years if at all due to the long lifespan of these tractors.

Yes, you will get opposing opinions and I cant honestly disagree; this has always worked well for me.

 

[Hilbilly]

Basically just use common sense. (although it doesn't seem to be all that common anymore). Never thought about the turbo cooling down though. That might occur naturally, based on the way I use it but maybe not. I usually end up driving it back the storage building after using it for work and maybe that allows the turbo to cool down since the engine is not working hard and just cruising back.

Is there a way to tell if the turbo has cooled down enough?

 

[TripleR]

Basically just use common sense. (although it doesn't seem to be all that common anymore). Never thought about the turbo cooling down though. That might occur naturally, based on the way I use it but maybe not. I usually end up driving it back the storage building after using it for work and maybe that allows the turbo to cool down since the engine is not working hard and just cruising back.

Is there a way to tell if the turbo has cooled down enough?

I often cool down the same way, but some, mostly farmers leave them in the field at end of day. Don't know of anyway to tell when it's enough.

 

[rScotty]

I have run my tractor no harder than what I needed to be able to get the work done. If that is PTO speed of 2,000+RPMs then it gets run at that until I'm done with the task. I don't stress it anymore than what I need to get the task done.

Absolutely. The idea of "run it like you stole it" is just ignorant. That's a salesman talking, not a mechanical guy.
Sure, some machines will do OK if they are stressed during break in, but what does that prove?
And give it a minute or two of easy work and idling before shutting it down. It can't hurt.

It sounds to me like the OP is breaking it in just right.
I do deviate from the manufacturer's recommendations by changing all my oils and filters 50 hours before going to the manufacturer's schedule.
rScotty

 

[orezok]

Ya gotta wonder about so called break-in. I've installed many Cat and John Deere generators up to 750kva and the break-in procedure consists of filling them up and starting. They go to 100% power and RPM in less than 10 seconds and do it hundreds or thousands of times even in the coldest wether. I've never seen an engine failure so you be the judge.

 

[rScotty]

Ya gotta wonder about so called break-in. I've installed many Cat and John Deere generators up to 750kva and the break-in procedure consists of filling them up and starting. They go to 100% power and RPM in less than 10 seconds and do it hundreds or thousands of times even in the coldest wether. I've never seen an engine failure so you be the judge.

I hear stories like that - and yes, I've seen the same thing on stationary engines. One thing it might be telling us is that they do a pretty good job of running them in at the factory.
rScotty

 

[ovrszd]

Just took delivery of a new JD 255HP road grader. Manual says don't baby it. Work the machine to it's capacity. Don't overheat.

The metals used in emgine construction today are much different than 20yrs ago.

I've saw modern engines disassembled with many, many miles/hrs on them. You can still see the hone hashmarks in the cylinder walls. This isn't your Grandpa's Model T.

Run it like it's designed to run.