Error code 008 NX4510

[justman777]

Odd... I guess I don't understand the regen cycle as well as I thought I did. My understanding was that if you ran the engine hot enough consistently (PTO speed or better), you'd burn off all the particulates and wouldn't need a regen. However, if you ran it below PTO speed quite a bit, the DPF wouldn't get hot enough to burn off the particulates and would call for an auto-regen or manual regen. I think the conditions you indicated in your initial post (running at or near PTO speed) would have been more the conducive to burning off the particulates without an auto-regen cycle. The subsequent manual cycle you ran also should have burned off the particulates. Regardless, from your first post, it appears the ECU called for an auto-regen, and should have burned off the particulates while you were cutting grass. That is, so long as you kept your engine speed above 2k(?) RPM and the engine was sufficiently warm (I forget what the exact temp has to be).

With all that, I don't see the reasoning behind changing out the sensor. I could see if your ECU wasn't calling for or initiating a regen at all, but that doesn't appear to be the case from your first post.

I hope what they're doing fixes the issue, but I don't see how it could.

 

[JimR]

Odd... I guess I don't understand the regen cycle as well as I thought I did. My understanding was that if you ran the engine hot enough consistently (PTO speed or better), you'd burn off all the particulates and wouldn't need a regen. However, if you ran it below PTO speed quite a bit, the DPF wouldn't get hot enough to burn off the particulates and would call for an auto-regen or manual regen. I think the conditions you indicated in your initial post (running at or near PTO speed) would have been more the conducive to burning off the particulates without an auto-regen cycle. The subsequent manual cycle you ran also should have burned off the particulates. Regardless, from your first post, it appears the ECU called for an auto-regen, and should have burned off the particulates while you were cutting grass. That is, so long as you kept your engine speed above 2k(?) RPM and the engine was sufficiently warm (I forget what the exact temp has to be).

With all that, I don't see the reasoning behind changing out the sensor. I could see if your ECU wasn't calling for or initiating a regen at all, but that doesn't appear to be the case from your first post.

I hope what they're doing fixes the issue, but I don't see how it could.

What the Rep told my dealer was that he thinks the DPF switch is not taking a proper reading or sending a proper signal to the ECU and not initiating a Regen soon enough. This would allow the CCRT to plug up which would cause the CEL light to come on after a failed Regen cycle. Rest assured I can attest to the failed Regen cycles from my recent experiences. I'm always at 2500 while mowing, running my chipper and any other PTO operated attachments. The rest of the time it runs at between 1800 - 2000 rpms. Maybe that is why I got over 300 hours on my tractor without ever having to do a Regen. The one thing I am sure of is that every time the CEL light comes on after a failed Regen is that the rear DPF sensor exhaust tube is blocked solid.That throws the CEL light. I can remove the DPF switch, clear the CEL light, manually run the Regen cycle and that rear tube will be working again. I was told to do this by the mechanic to bypass the CEL light. It worked several times for me. My guess is that the CCRT was so plugged up that there are particles breaking loose that plug up the rear balance tube to the DPF sensor. My new sensor is on order and will be in sometime next week.

 

[Kioti Dave]

What the Rep told my dealer was that he thinks the DPF switch is not taking a proper reading or sending a proper signal to the ECU and not initiating a Regen soon enough. This would allow the CCRT to plug up which would cause the CEL light to come on after a failed Regen cycle. Rest assured I can attest to the failed Regen cycles from my recent experiences. I'm always at 2500 while mowing, running my chipper and any other PTO operated attachments. The rest of the time it runs at between 1800 - 2000 rpms. Maybe that is why I got over 300 hours on my tractor without ever having to do a Regen. The one thing I am sure of is that every time the CEL light comes on after a failed Regen is that the rear DPF sensor exhaust tube is blocked solid.That throws the CEL light. I can remove the DPF switch, clear the CEL light, manually run the Regen cycle and that rear tube will be working again. I was told to do this by the mechanic to bypass the CEL light. It worked several times for me. My guess is that the CCRT was so plugged up that there are particles breaking loose that plug up the rear balance tube to the DPF sensor. My new sensor is on order and will be in sometime next week.

Wow, over 300 hours without a regen!! My 2016 NX4510 HSTC will regen about every 40 to 50 hours. I try not to idle much, and when working with tractor, keep rpm above 2000. Sounds like a new switch should fix that? Hope you get machine back soon. Can't imagine going that long without my tractor! Went 2 weeks when it was new due to rear main seal leak. Otherwise this seems to be a pretty good machine.

 

[wiskioti]

What the Rep told my dealer was that he thinks the DPF switch is not taking a proper reading or sending a proper signal to the ECU and not initiating a Regen soon enough. This would allow the CCRT to plug up which would cause the CEL light to come on after a failed Regen cycle. Rest assured I can attest to the failed Regen cycles from my recent experiences. I'm always at 2500 while mowing, running my chipper and any other PTO operated attachments. The rest of the time it runs at between 1800 - 2000 rpms. Maybe that is why I got over 300 hours on my tractor without ever having to do a Regen. The one thing I am sure of is that every time the CEL light comes on after a failed Regen is that the rear DPF sensor exhaust tube is blocked solid.That throws the CEL light. I can remove the DPF switch, clear the CEL light, manually run the Regen cycle and that rear tube will be working again. I was told to do this by the mechanic to bypass the CEL light. It worked several times for me. My guess is that the CCRT was so plugged up that there are particles breaking loose that plug up the rear balance tube to the DPF sensor. My new sensor is on order and will be in sometime next week.

300 hours?? Wow!! Mine has consistently regened around every 40-45 hours and I try to keep the idle above 1500-1600 at all times and I'm rarely idling. At 300 hours, I would rather believe that the tractor did auto regens that you didn't notice OR something was not functioning properly the whole time. I could believe that perfect operating conditions might stretch the auto-regens to up to maybe 100 hours at the most, but not 300.

 

[JimR]

300 hours?? Wow!! Mine has consistently regened around every 40-45 hours and I try to keep the idle above 1500-1600 at all times and I'm rarely idling. At 300 hours, I would rather believe that the tractor did auto regens that you didn't notice OR something was not functioning properly the whole time. I could believe that perfect operating conditions might stretch the auto-regens to up to maybe 100 hours at the most, but not 300.

I thought that it was pretty strange too from what I have read on this sight. When it did starting to do regens recently on its own, the RPM's dropped from 2500 down to 2000 while I was mowing. Then the solid light went to flashing and down to an idle. I had to hit the regen to get it to regen. Will this switch fix my problem? Who knows. I think there is more behind this than just a switch. I'm hoping that the switch works. This makes week 5. Just glad that I do not need it for anything important right now. My Cub mower is doing a wonderful job keeping the fields mowed. It just takes longer and I have to mow them ever week instead of every 2 weeks.

 

[JimR]

My tractor is done. The dealer wants to put a mower on the back and try it out to make sure it doesn't have any more issues. That is the only time that I had these issues was when I was mowing. I'm not talking brush hogging a field or anything lie that. I'm talking about just mowing with a finish mower on 5 - 10 inch grass. Hopefully they will call this week to say come pick it up.

 

[JimR]

The saga continues. I picked up the tractor this morning and it was running fine. It had 442.6 hours on it as I ran it off the trailer at my house. My daughter and I moved about a cord of wood from the woodpile over to the farm for the woodstove. That took about 35 minutes. Then I put the mower on and decided to start mowing down the rye in the field. After about 1 hour and 20 minutes the Regen solid light came on and the rpm's dropped from 2500 down to 2100. I kept mowing for about 10 minutes when the Regen light went to flashing. At that point you are supposed to stop, shift to neutral, lock the brake, pull back the throttle to an idle and hit the manual Regen button. I did that and the engine revved up to 1600 rpm's for 10 minutes. The motor then went to an idle and the check engine light came back on. I pulled the exhaust balance switch off the DPF to see if the tubes were clean. Both sides had exhaust coming out of them. I cleared the code and tried to run a manual Regen. I could clear the code but the Regen flashing light kept coming back on and switched out to the CEL light. Prior to this weekend I was able to clear the code and run a manual Regen. The dealer did tell me that the selling dealer had updated the ECU for the injection. However the update was the wrong version for my early model NX4510HST. The early models use a different injection pump and different injectors. This dealer is nice enough to take after hours phone calls. I gave him a call and told him that the problem was back again. His son had done the work on my tractor. He was there and we discussed my problem again. He is going to call the Kioti rep again this coming week to see where we go from here. This is indeed a very frustrating issues that is driving me nuts. This was my 2nd trip out there for the same issue and now it looks like number 3 is going to happen again. The owner thinks that the original mirror bracket welding did something to the ECU. If that was the case then why did it run great for 420 hours. I'm stumped. I can only say good things about this dealer. They are doing everything they can to fix my tractor and we have tried to go over everything possible to check each time before I bring the tractor in again. Michigan Iron, do you have any clues as to what is wrong with my tractor? The previous CEL codes showed that the DPF was clogged up. The dealer did remove the DPF and cleaned it out. This issue so far has been 7 weeks of no tractor with no end in sight for what is wrong.

Update," I just spent 1 1/2 hours checking every electrical connection in my tractor except under the dashboard. All of them were tight. That included pulling apart the main harness connectors, ECU and down under the back of the tractor. I didn't see any signs of dark terminals or corrosion. I also checked the ground cables, they were tight. Both the mechanic and I didn't think that the differential switch on the DPF would fix the problem. He also recommended switching out my Baldwin fuel filter for a Daedong one. He said that it might not have the same filtration rating as the factory one. I did that this morning as I had a new spare with my other filters. I doubt that the filter will change anything. The tractor was running great until the CEL came on. It doesn't smoke or skip. My code reader shows an "Emissions Related DTC" I can clear it. The Regen light then comes on and blinks 5 - 6 times then goes out and the CEL comes back on. This is with the tractor not running and the key in the on position. I also took out the exhaust sensors on the DPF canister and under the turbo. Both were black but not sooted up bad. I cleaned them and put them back in. I also found that the wire harness clip was not around the right side mirror bracket light wires under the right side of the floorplate. This leads me to believe that the bracket was welded off of the tractor, repainted and re-installed. The dealer thinks the ECU was fried by welding on the tractor previous to my buying it. If the ECU failed due to welding that would have happened immediately after the welding, not roughly 420 hours later. If we can't fix this issue I will be forced to contact the EPA on the emission failure of this tractor. My last resort will be to place this machine out at the road with plywood signs on it that have a huge lemon on it.

Another thing that I found out yesterday was that the early NX series tractors, or at least the NX4510's used a different model injection pump and injectors. Was there a reliability issue on these items that caused Kioti to upgrade to a different injection pump and injectors?

 

[justman777]

Time to tell the dealer you want a loaner because you have work to do, and they can have your tractor until it's fixed.

 

[JimR]

Time to tell the dealer you want a loaner because you have work to do, and they can have your tractor until it's fixed.

I wish I could do that. I bought my tractor out in Wisconsin and not local by any means to Mass.

 

[JimR]

The tractor is back at the dealer's now. He said that they have a 3 1/2 week backlog due to new tractor sales and will try and fit mine in somewhere. I want to know what the emissions related DTC is.