Rear blade?

[chim]

I have had experience with two rubber edges. Both were made from the tread part of tires. Below is a poor picture of the Montana tractor with a homebrew cab we have at work and now use mostly for touchup plowing. The guys love it. The tire tread is clamped between the removable cutting edge and the moldboard using longer bolts. There are a lot of irregular surfaces in the areas that it it used and the rubber has enough flex to slip over things that would catch the steel edge.

I made a similar edge to use at home and didn't care for it. The main reason is that I seldom got a chance to use it before the snow had been run over. The rubber edged just didn't cut the packed snow down to the blacktop after it was run on.

 

[ramman666]

I have had experience with two rubber edges. Both were made from the tread part of tires. Below is a poor picture of the Montana tractor with a homebrew cab we have at work and now use mostly for touchup plowing. The guys love it. The tire tread is clamped between the removable cutting edge and the moldboard using longer bolts. There are a lot of irregular surfaces in the areas that it it used and the rubber has enough flex to slip over things that would catch the steel edge.

I made a similar edge to use at home and didn't care for it. The main reason is that I seldom got a chance to use it before the snow had been run over. The rubber edged just didn't cut the packed snow down to the blacktop after it was run on.

Thank you, so if the snow is not compacted down the rubber does a decent job? I am thinking I would end up more like you said and have the snow compacted I think I will end up going with a plastic blade then. Thank you guys very much!

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. My only snow weapon - a VERY HD Rhino rear blade. It's 8 feet wide and weighs - 1050#. Even in the late fall when my driveway is like concrete - this blade will dig up and recontour gravel. That's the reason I have this heavy blade.

Soooo - when it's time to plow snow and the driveway might be wet and soft. Just rotate the blade 180 degrees and plow. Once the drive freezes up hard as stone - bring the blade back to normal position - offset & angle. Go like smoke and oakum.

The neighbor has a 50 foot concrete apron in front of his garage. The only time I've ever done any damage plowing it for him is when there is a tiny bit of gravel mixed in with the snow. I will leave tiny scratch marks on the concrete. It's only a cosmetic thing.

Will a rear blade damage your asphalt driveway? It's all in the way you have your rear blade set when you use it. Properly set - it should never hurt the asphalt. If the cutting edge is "leading" - it might. If the cutting edge is "trailing" - it never should.

If your asphalt drive is in good condition a rear blade is not going to cause damage. If your asphalt driveway has broken or open areas - the rear blade will cause further damage.

When I get to the end of my driveway - I turn either right or left and out onto the county road. I drag my driveway snow an added 20 to 30 feet down the county road to clear the blade. Never once have I ever even scratched, marked or caused damage to the asphalt county road.

View attachment 624834 . View attachment 624839

 

[EverythingAttachments]

No gimmick, but I think you(and others) deserve to know about the best blade for compact tractors with the most adjustment. This blade is probably more than the 15 series LP, but the versatility should more than justify it. I hope this helps.
Travis

EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade for Compact Tractors

Here is a detailed video with Ted..

 

[shooterdon]

I purchased a pull blower for this year, but for light snows, I plan on using my blade mounted on the front with a SSQA adapter that will let me mount 3 PH attachments on the FEL. I had a thick plastic pipe (appears to be ABS) I got free from the oil/gas operations near me that I slit and mounted to my plow truck blade and it worked well. I will use it on my tractor blade. By putting the loader in float mode, it should work reasonably well.

BTW, I think PVC will be too brittle in extreme cold.

 

[CobyRupert]

For those who may not know: You would adjust your 3 point hitch top link to make the edge of blade "leading" or "trailing".

I've heard that rubber horse stall mats (about 1" thick, sold as ~ 4' x 6' (?)) work well as edges, once cut to size and bolted on. These are sold at most farm and tack stores (TSC, etc..)

 

[/pine]

By floating the rear blade do you just mean setting it to a semi low position or can you actually float the 3 point hitch like you would a FEL??? Sorry very new to tractors.

FWIW...
Almost all utility tractors (including compact and subcompacts) have 3PH's that are always in float...

 

[Underdog57]

I plowed for 3 years with my LP 3784 rear blade on my gravel drive without skid shoes and it was hard not to dig in and make a mess!

3 years ago made the investment for the LP skid shoes (not cheap!) And it really made a difference, I have the blade slightly above the bottom of skid shoes and drop the blade and go. It won't scrape the drive perfectly clean and the 2 shoes might leave cosmetic marks but should help minimize damage to your Driveway.

My advice........put some skid shoes on that back blade!

 

[msb1766]

I have a rear blade with steel cutting edge and an asphalt driveway, I have not had any damage to the driveway at all.
I took a grinder and rounded over the edges of the cutting edge so when the blade is angled the leading edge is not sharp.
Also removed the lift arms from the 3 point hitch and replaced them with with chain, this way the blade floats left to right.

 

[PA hayseed]

I have had experience with two rubber edges. Both were made from the tread part of tires. Below is a poor picture of the Montana tractor with a homebrew cab we have at work and now use mostly for touchup plowing. The guys love it. The tire tread is clamped between the removable cutting edge and the moldboard using longer bolts. There are a lot of irregular surfaces in the areas that it it used and the rubber has enough flex to slip over things that would catch the steel edge.

I made a similar edge to use at home and didn't care for it. The main reason is that I seldom got a chance to use it before the snow had been run over. The rubber edged just didn't cut the packed snow down to the blacktop after it was run on.

I have the same thing on mine, skid steer tire cut at a 45 degree angle. I now have a snow pusher on the front and a rear blade on the back, never been easier to move the white stuff.

OP - 2 things,
1) make sure you get a heavy duty or at the least a medium duty rear blade, light duty ones are garbage IMHO
2) I think you are forgetting that other than in the most severe situations, the sun will heat up that snow on your asphalt and then go back and hit it with the rear blade, should come up then.