Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe

   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #11  
Curious what the thinking was on how the cylinder got clay, and chalk and a mixture of other dust, etc. into it? Also why would Deere recommend an engine oil rather than their pricey Hygard hydraulic oil? Also, how many years/hours did your hoe have on it when you rebuilt the boom cylinder?

Currently I'm working on a few other issues with the tractor, but first thing I plan to do is change out the two hydro filters and top off the HST reservoir, then retest the hoe's function. I'm not against rebuilding the boom cylinder; however I don't want to do it before checking that things like an overdue filter change aren't the culprit. So for me, a rule-out of the simple, less expensive fixes is a necessary method of approach. Also, though my hoe is from 2009 vintage, it does not have a ton of hours on it overall. It has spent winters either outside, or under cover outside, and a few years wintering in my heated barn with the tractor attached.

I think the short answer is, "I don't know where that dust came from." When I got that message from the JD hydraulic shop it surprised me. But they said they see that happening fairly often in boom and dipperstick cylinders on 310 backhoes. So I got to thinking, about that and how overall this machine has very little wear in spite of 6000 outdoor hrs...and now think that it was all clay dust.

A couple of factors lead me to that conclusion. That 2007 JD310 had excellent care, but it did spend it's first 8 years and 6000 hours before I got it living outside on the windy flat bone dry agricultural plains of eastern Colorado. That whole area of the state is is dusty like no other place I know of. Luckily there's no sand in their dust, it's basically all dry clay.In fact it's so pure that Colorado exports that clay as dried expansive clay all over the world. More on that below.

Out there that clay dust is everywhere. In every house and car and a cloud comes up each time you sit down. It was deposited a quarter inch thick everywhere in and on that tractor. I would take a panel off to check some wiring or such even inside the cab, and the clay dust would be an inch thick. At first I just used a mask, long paint brushes, and air pressure to blow it off.... but finally got enough off that I could go to vacuum cleaner & pressure wash in some areas. Because there weren't many oil leaks on this machine, the clay hadn't formed into true caked-on grease.

So how did it get into the hydraulic oil?? I just don't know. Maybe though a vent somewhere. Like I said, that whole area of the world is seriously windy and dusty. They really do export their dust as Colorado clay from there. It's used for drill mud and other places where you need a pure expansive clay dust. The clay is almost put bentonite with a smattering of other types of clays including montmorillonite.

And why does the clay dust deposit out in those two specific cylinders? Again, I don't know. It might be because those cylinders sit vertically most of the time.
And if so, it's also possible that there wasn't all that much dust in the hydraulic oil.... but what there was eventually all ended up getting deposited on those two hydraulic seals. That would explain why there doesn't seem to be a problem with the rest of the cylinder seals

Clay dust is a special kind of dust. Clay particles are very small - almost molecularly small - and the molecules are rather flat and shaped like dinner plates. Clay molecules are also slightly polar charged, so the clay glomes onto most fluids to become a very slippery substance indeed. Think of a pile of very, very small dinner plates with fluid between each plate. The fluid can be oil or water either one. In fact, that's how grease was made and some still is: Basically if you have powdered clay and add oil to it the product is called grease. So friction-wise it's not all that bad to have it in your hydraulic system. It isn't abrasive... rather the opposite. The badness happens when it falls out of suspension in the oil and packs in around a seal for instance. Then that seal can't move like it should. It's OK for a long while because at first it's just like the seal is being lubed with home-made grease, but eventually with pressure you get so much clay in a small area that it packs all those dinner plates together and excludes the oil. Then the joint begins to squawk and jerk as the cylinder rod moves.

BTW, exactly the same thing happens in pin & bushing joints in places like loaders and backhoe joints. If you use a clay-based grease it will eventually cake in there and the oil that made it a grease in the first place gets displaced by load pressure.... soyou end up with a joint that looks like it has grease but in reality it is just packed clay & doesn't have any lube to it. This can also happen even faster because of chemistry when different types of incompatible greases are used together. See "grease compatability" charts

As to why JD recommends an engine oil rather than their own hydraulic oil I don't know. I doubt it's a compatability issue. I've used both in this machine. My local JD commercial dealer is a sharp group of mechanics who like their science so I asked them. They didn't know either. But they said they knew of a lot of machines that used either or both without problems. According to JD's own literature they changed from HyGard trans/hydraulic fluid to engine oil in the HYDRAULIC SYSTEM ONLY. Starting with serial numbers
For the JD310G & 310SG at serial number 951253 and for the 315SG a little later. See page 3-1-6 & 3-2-8 in the Operator's Manual.

I just had to replace the hydraulic fluid suction hose on mine - a common job. It turns out that hose gets old and the ends begin to crack because of the hot fluid they see. Tightening the screw band won't help even though the hose body itself seems flexible & good. It is leakage because of splits under the hose clamps on the ends. Right under the cab. Easy way to replace it is to drill through it with a half inch auger, which drains out all the oil. You can catch it or replace it. HyGard costs so much I was going to catch mine, filter it, and reuse it. But engine oil is cheap enough that I just used new oil. Only downside to the engine oil I can think of is that I think they should have spec'd a lower viscosity multigrade for very cold temperatures.
rScotty
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for the JD'seminar'. Very informative, especially about the grease and clay pros/cons.:thumbsup:
Now back to my regularly scheduled Kioti hoe issue! :)

I spoke to my dealer, and according to him there are no adjustments for hyd fluid pressure or rate of flow to the hoe cylinders. He says, as I've heard from others some hoes give preference to the first valve opened when using two or more functions at once. He suggested using the boom out, then use the dipper out, which he says might help, or to slow the rpms so the combo reacts smoother.
He said when discussing seals that sometimes internal seals go and make a cylinder act different than it might otherwise.
I had a friend, who is an excavator of many years of use, try my hoe ,and he said the boom out would drive him nuts!
He confirmed for me the operation of the stick to boom out is 'too sensitive'. It is about 3x faster than any other motion of the hoe from the various sticks, just barely touching it to boom out.
I haven't changed out the HST and hydro filters, but hope to in the next few days. I want to start there, and then see what, if anything changes.
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #13  
Thanks for the JD'seminar'. Very informative, especially about the grease and clay pros/cons.:thumbsup:
Now back to my regularly scheduled Kioti hoe issue! :)

I spoke to my dealer, and according to him there are no adjustments for hyd fluid pressure or rate of flow to the hoe cylinders. He says, as I've heard from others some hoes give preference to the first valve opened when using two or more functions at once. He suggested using the boom out, then use the dipper out, which he says might help, or to slow the rpms so the combo reacts smoother.
He said when discussing seals that sometimes internal seals go and make a cylinder act different than it might otherwise.
I had a friend, who is an excavator of many years of use, try my hoe ,and he said the boom out would drive him nuts!
He confirmed for me the operation of the stick to boom out is 'too sensitive'. It is about 3x faster than any other motion of the hoe from the various sticks, just barely touching it to boom out.
I haven't changed out the HST and hydro filters, but hope to in the next few days. I want to start there, and then see what, if anything changes.

Yeah, I kinda went overboard on the grease and clay thing...apologies. It just dovetailed with some other work I was doing. And I was excited that maybe someone else had the same oddball problem that I had.

But maybe my whole diagnosis on yours was wrong?? If so, that's because I had been considering the jumpiness of your boom out as being due to stiction like it was on mine. But it sounds like you are thinking that yours is jumpy more because of the way the control valve handles flow? Did it ever work differently? That sure might be the problem...... In fact, I like the idea. Just because my boom jump was stiction-related doesn't mean yours is. One thing that mine did was make a loud "squawking" sound when the boom moved. I don't recall you mentioning that, so yours might sure be a different cause.

I found to my surprise that control valves vary a LOT on different machines ! The backhoe control valves on the 310 JD TLB do not have the smooth sensitivity to small operator motions that the Kubota does. Just like on some loaders you can raise the bucket and curl at the same time and others do not.

I would never trust the JD 310 backhoe in confined areas where the Kubota M59 TLB backhoe can be worked with confidence. So it may simply be the way that valve set works. I'm thinking that the boom out should be roughly the same speed as the other motions. Sounds like yours is not.

Even though there is no separate cylinder adjustment for your hoe, couldn't one be fitted?
Again, I should have asked at the onset if this is new to you or did it always work that way? Yes, new filters and fluid should help.
Hope someone local needs some JD HyGard :) I've got roughly 15 new gallons of the stuff now that I've switched to motor oil for the hydraulics.
rScotty
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe
  • Thread Starter
#14  
rScotty,
No squeal with mine. Tell the truth, I just think the situation is it's always been too sensitive and maybe a winter sitting out might have made it worse, plus the filters could be contributing. I'm keeping in mind the cylinder seals, mostly because that too could be the result of sitting in freezing weather, then Spring/Summer, and lack of use in last 2 years. And some op error due to rust on my skillset with the hoe. Nothing is ruled out yet, but I'm going filters, adjustments if any are possible to the valveset, then looking at the cylinder(s). Unit is10+ years now so things could be developing some issues as it ages. No apologies needed! Sell the Hyguard on TBN's marketplace...
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #15  
Not sure if this is your case......some manufacturers design in the gland heads have what I call a dry wear band. In that I mean the wearband (if it has one) is put between the wiper and rod seal. If the wiper fails it can allow water and grit in between the wearband and gland causing rust that tightens up the gland too much. In a perfect world the wearband should be put below the rod seal so it’s always being bathed in oil, thus preventing rust forming under the band. Very common problem in cylinders too tight at the gland. In this case a thorough cleaning, polishing and repacking with new seal kit solves the issue.
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Not sure if this is your case......some manufacturers design in the gland heads have what I call a dry wear band. In that I mean the wearband (if it has one) is put between the wiper and rod seal. If the wiper fails it can allow water and grit in between the wearband and gland causing rust that tightens up the gland too much. In a perfect world the wearband should be put below the rod seal so it’s always being bathed in oil, thus preventing rust forming under the band. Very common problem in cylinders too tight at the gland. In this case a thorough cleaning, polishing and repacking with new seal kit solves the issue.


Which dog is in charge?:D That's a good pic! I know our youngest black lab loved riding with any of us on the tractor.
So I don't know whether my cylinders are the way you mentioned or not, but I maybe able to find out. Thanks, what you said makes sense.
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #17  
....could be the result of sitting in freezing weather, then Spring/Summer, and lack of use in last 2 years.

Have you oiled the heim joints and linkages on your joysticks? These often get neglected, and you have to remove the boots and panel to get at them.
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #18  
Which dog is in charge?:D That's a good pic! I know our youngest black lab loved riding with any of us on the tractor.
So I don't know whether my cylinders are the way you mentioned or not, but I maybe able to find out. Thanks, what you said makes sense.

Gurdy (Hurdy Gurdy) on the right has been my leader of the pack until this last summer. She is getting too old to hunt now cuz she can barely walk at 12yo. Those two dogs posed on the tractor the day it was delivered new in 2010, seems like a lifetime ago and many many hare shot in front of those two. I picked up a third dog last year, I call them the Three Muttskateers....:laughing:

(sorry for the hijack:ashamed:)

( Christmas Pass 2010 - YouTube .......video for hound reminiscing effect)
 
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   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #19  
Also a quick thought......might want to remove the pin on the rod side, leave hoses hooked up and cycle the cyl bare. If it still seems stiff then run it out to extreme, stop the cyl and see if you can turn it using a short shaft or pipe. You should feel a healthy drag but If it’s bent you’ll know pretty quick.
 
   / Boom out is 'jerky' at moderate RPMs - Kioti DK-40 Backhoe #20  
Also a quick thought......might want to remove the pin on the rod side, leave hoses hooked up and cycle the cyl bare. If it still seems stiff then run it out to extreme, stop the cyl and see if you can turn it using a short shaft or pipe. You should feel a healthy drag but If it’s bent you’ll know pretty quick.

That's a good idea. I've more than once heard of dipperstick cylinders being bent. Cylinder rod diameter is always a compromise.
rScotty
 

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