Starting a Stove Fire

[Industrial Toys]

It all depends on chimney temperature and recent weather conditions. Lately, no trouble starting a fire. I have been using left over hardwood scraps and cut up baseboard, from my Lady Friends Flooring project, but the stuff doesn't burn nearly as nicely as raw hardwood scraps I once had access too. I would love to find a source for that again.

Lately, the wood in my shop has been wet and won't burn well, so I found bringing over an air line, is just the ticket to get the heat going.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

This could open up the ages old discussion of "top down" vs "bottom up" staring method.. I use the later. btw.

It shouldn't, as the top vs. bottom discussion contained in this thread is pretty comprehensive. But few will read this whole thread.

Regardless of how you choose to start a fire, if your wood isn't dry, you're gonna have a hard time getting it to burn. I picked up a meter from Amazon and it works well to tell me exactly what I'm dealing with, so there's no guessing from end cracks or how it sounds when you bang two pieces together.

FWIW, I was a firm believer in bottom up until I gave top down a try. I now use it exclusively on everything from my wood stove to camp fires and brush piles. :2cents:

 

[goeduck]

^^^ I have a moisture meter also. Some species of wood dry different than others and if I pick up any free stuff (someone wanting to get rid of a pile), I want to know what the content is. Inexpensive and very handy.

 

[Industrial Toys]

You would have to explain how that works. In my thinking it would be wise to use any flame or heat to try and ignite other (often larger) material above. A flame going up and out the stove does nothing to promote a fire. My thinking. There, it's started.

Was justing buying chinese junk on E-Bay. Should look for a meter. How accurate are they? Does the exterior moisture always reflect the interior?

EDIT: Was just looking at some meters. Number Display VS just a Bar graph? 2 pin VS 4?

 

[4570Man]

I usually start brush piles half way up. Mostly for easier access. They always spread up faster than down.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I used to use fuel and old oil but find my Makita Four Stroke Blower does wonders.

So what happens with standing wood. It dries out to a point and then starts to rot? So the moisture level will start to go from less to increasing? Funny how some Elm is rock hard after standing a long time with the bark off and other newer stuff has started to go punky.

 

[goeduck]

Was justing buying chinese junk on E-Bay. Should look for a meter. How accurate are they? Does the exterior moisture always reflect the interior?

EDIT: Was just looking at some meters. Number Display VS just a Bar graph? 2 pin VS 4?

I have an Extech MO50 about $44 on eBay. It has 2 pins and digital display and seems well built. Parent company is FLIR, well known. You can spend about as much as you want on a moisture meter but I do not see doing that. $44 gets you above the junk but below wasting your money. The outside of a piece of wood will be dryer than the inside but is still a good indicator. If the outside is over 18% (my cutoff) the inside generally is too wet to burn without creating creosote. Ideally you would do a fresh spilt of a large piece and test the center and it should be under 20%.

Our exterior air moisture stays above 80% all winter which lets Doug Fir (our most common wood) stabilize at around 14 to 18% moisture after 2 years under cover. Split at the start of the 2 years, not at the end. Wood dries much better split.

Moisture Meters | Extech Instruments

 

[Diggin It]

Not sure why y'all have charcoal bits left in yer stoves to be able to reuse. Ain't nuttin' but ash left in mine when it burns out. What seems like 100 pounds of wood going in over a few days fits in a single standard galvanized bucket when it comes out.

 

[Deere Dude]

One thing that speeded my fire starting process is a little electric splitter. Now instead of using chips to start big chunks, I use chips to start 1" splits from that and once small splits start big chunks have to start.

 

[PILOON]

To start a stove fire you need to get the air moving up the flue.
Many things will do the trick,
A 100 watt light bulb, a plumbers torch, or a bundle of shredded newspaper (that will smoke a bit).
It is all about density.
Cold air is dense and wont raise so by heating it the flow starts.
If I burn newspaper I do get some smoke for a few mins but then the draw starts and I'm good to go.
Later on I tried the 100 watt bulb for a few mins and was good to go.
It is all about density! Cold air is more dense than hot air.
Try my suggestions and you'll be pleased.
Have a good day! (and smokeless home)