When I buy, what to look for.

   / When I buy, what to look for. #1  

desertdog71

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2020
Messages
196
Location
Southeast, Kansas
Tractor
Branson 2510H
Since it's going to be my first purchase of this type. I'm wondering what the gotcha things are and what to make sure is included with my purchase.

I'll be purchasing tractor, loader, box blade, rotary cutter and trailer. Whether it be a package or whatever. What are those things that are typically not included that prevent you from working with your new purchase. What things can I include that will prevent me from being dead in the water?

Here's what I think I know. :laughing:

1. Some tractors don't come with a top link.
2. Rotary cutters don't usually come with extra shear bolts or gear boxes filled with gear oil.
3. I probably should get a full 50hr kit.
4. Couplers? The things you use to attach to the 3pt? Not sure on this one.
5. Chains and straps for the trailer.

What things should I buy extra of to keep me going? What am I missing?
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #2  
If a dealer doesn't throw in a top link for a tractor, go somewhere else. Also you don't have to buy it all up front. There is nothing wrong with used implements. I have bought very few new implements in my life. Basically if I need it, I start looking for good used. If no luck, then I might buy new depending on how bad or fast I need the item.

Then, I loan implements all the time to my buddies. If you only need something once you could just borrow or rent it.

The best advice I can give you is find a farmer or rancher in that area and get to know them. Offer to help them do whatever chore they need help with. Then ask them to show you how to set up and use your implements correctly. For example, in one of your post you mentioned renting a JD tractor and rotary cutter, and I remember you saying it would bog down sometimes. Then in another post you happen to post a picture of that tractor and rotary cutter working and I immediately saw why the tractor was bogging down. The mower was not set properly. The front was way too low on the mower.

A properly set implement will work well and give you good results. A poorly set implement will make a mess and more work.

Hope this helps and good luck with the search!
 
   / When I buy, what to look for.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yep, I know nothing that's for sure. That was my first time touching a tractor of any kind. I was running it too low initially and I think I corrected that later on in the process. I definitely got more confident with it as I did it.

A lot of these dealers have these packages with trailer, box blade and rotary cutter. The blades and cutters are of questionable quality of course, the trailer is probably junk as well. I'm sure this is a way to pad the bottom line a bit. I'm trying to decide what they are worth, and work backwards from there to arrive at a tractor price. I can buy a decent trailer for $2K
The cutters and box blades I haven't a clue what makes one better than the other. I'm guessing a heavy unit for the box blade is what I need. Cutter, I need to cut 1-2 inch stuff. I have plenty of that still to do.

I've looked on craigslist and marketplace for used implements but the prices aren't much lower than new, in some cases more. Go figure.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #4  
Branson comes with a top link. Tractor Supply stores are getting to be real popular as are farm stores so the little nit picking necessities are available readily......what you need will come to you as you work your machine.....I wouldn't just go out and buy a bunch of stuff but browsing the shelves at a farm store shows what is being sold....aka used by others. Also ask sales personnel....some might know enough to be helpful in your particular endeavor. Got neighbors? Get friendly with them and cuss and discuss what is needed for what you want to do and what he/she uses, recommends.

Lots of used farm implements out there but the question is "what do you need to do what you want" and ESPECIALLY will a certain implement do what you want done. That is the hard part and depends on a lot of things. Problem in buying is that you drive off the lot and it's yours. That's why getting opinions from neighbors and places like TBY with pictures and descriptions and all before you make a purchase will really save you some frustration and a TON of cash on needless purchases.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #5  
The tractor should come with the top link. Any rotary should come from the dealer with the gearbox filled though you should check. Shear bolts will be on you.

If you're cutting 2" stems you should get a medium duty cutter. Unless they are stems of some really soft plant.

The package deal trailers and implements are cheap to make the total price low.

If the dealer is a ways away get enough filters to last you a few years. You can get fluids locally. The dealer probably marks up chains and straps a little more than the best deal.

If you can get a good trailer for $2k it's probably a better deal.

Useful add-ons:
filled rear tires
hydraulic remotes
top and tilt (especially useful for box blading)
rear wheel spacers if your tractor does not have adjustable rears
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #6  
As far as tying it down to a trailer, I wish they made tractors with attachment points specifically for that, but they don't. I'd just go to Harbor Freight and buy a couple of 5/16" chains and chain tensioners. On the rear it helps to attach a shackle to the drag bar to loop the chain through for tying it down. I originally mounted a shackle to the top center of the FEL bucket for transporting, but I don't use it for that anymore, although I am glad I did it because I am always using that front shackle for a ton of other things. Now I just loop the tie down chain over the front bumper. Works fine and I transport over some really bumpy roads.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #7  
Check out service department.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #8  
It is definitely a learning experience. There are some good videos on purchasing tractors and implements, proper setup and use of implements, and such on YouTube on the Messick's and Everything Attachment channels. It may not be your brand but the idea is the same.

Have the dealer put the implements on the tractor and check the PTO shaft length in different positions. The factory shafts may be too short, which means a different shaft, or too long, so it needs to be cut. Having a shaft bind when you go down in a hollow spot and the tail of the cutter rises or pull apart over a high spot when the tail drops is bad.

Shear bolts are usually Grade 2 bolts. Tractor Supply sells bolts by the pound. I take one to TSC, match it up in the hardware section, and by a box of 50 or 100 of bolts and lock nuts. Much cheaper than the manufacturer's 5 pack of shear bolts. Same with clevis, lock pins and spacers. For me TSC is closer and cheaper.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
There's no shortage of Farm and Fleet type stores around where I live. Orschelns, Blains, TSC, Atwoods, a couple others.
 
   / When I buy, what to look for. #10  
I dont think the package trailers and implements are junk . just not heavy duty . I have looked at lots of packages and the trailers are generally ones that are made local to the dealer. some have been good trailers, the blades are mostly very light duty and cutters are standard duty which are fine for most brush cutting. if you are cutting lots of trees then at least go med duty. To go heavy duty you will have to get more hp. I have 4 brush cutters. the oldest is an old 5 ft side winder that will cut a 2 in tree without you even feeling it .My new 6 ft cutter is a standard duty and i wont cut over 1 in stuff but on most tall grass and light brush it does a great job.
 

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