Problems attaching interior framing to red iron?

[Corkpuller]

Can't find the post and I don't remember if I read it here or on Garage Journal.

Someone made mention of it not being a good idea to attach any interior wood framing to the girts of a red iron shop. Something about moisture, or temperature and condensation, or ??

Any of y'all hear of such?

I currently have a red iron shop with interior framed walls and have not seen any concerns with it. It has the standard metal building white backed insulation and was built ~24 yrs ago.
I'm fixin to have a new shop built on our retirement property and tryin to row up my ducks on how to go about this one.

Bear in mind our current place is on the Coast south of Houston, which means HIGH HUMIDITY is an understatement. Next shop will be just a couple hundred miles north in Deep East Texas where the heat and humidity is much the same.

 

[RNeumann]

I’ve seen and built lots of buildings with steel and wood touching. If the humidity is good enough for the wood it’s good enough for wood and steel. For the lighter gauge steel (like perlins) you can use concrete nails to attach the wood to the steel.

 

[Corkpuller]

"If the humidity is good enough for the wood it’s good enough for wood and steel."
I believe the idea was the outside metal is tied to the girts and therefore will transfer the temperature difference.

My current shop has the top plate sitting under and bolted through the girt.

 

[MickeyDBC]

I would not worry about it. The wall and roof panels are going to lose their paint and rust out long before the wood rots and that will be long after you are gone.

 

[RNeumann]

"If the humidity is good enough for the wood it’s good enough for wood and steel."
I believe the idea was the outside metal is tied to the girts and therefore will transfer the temperature difference.

My current shop has the top plate sitting under and bolted through the girt.

I believe you are talking about condensation forming. This will occur in a metal building that isn’t properly vented. If you are worried use steel studs. The cost difference is minimal. But either way you want it built right so anything inside the building isn’t suffering from the condescension.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Wood to red iron, use powder actuated nails. Just work out the right load and use the nails with washers. Fast and easy. Sheet metal girts and etc use self drilling/tapping sheet metal screws + washers.

Ron

 

[Corkpuller]

I would not worry about it. The wall and roof panels are going to lose their paint and rust out long before the wood rots and that will be long after you are gone.

Not really worried about it.
The wood rotting is not my concern.
It's the transfer of condensation/moisture from the steel outside in to the interior "space", where my tools and equipment live.
You open a door around here and your chit starts rusting.

 

[RNeumann]

It sounds like you may need a better understanding of why condensation forms and how to prevent it. Another topic to figure out is thermal conductivity. And finally conditioned vs unconditioned spaces.

You either need to properly vent the building so their isn’t condensation inside when you don’t have condensation outside. Or you need to seal the building and control the interior climate. A sealed building, without climate control, in your climate is called a greenhouse.....minus the sunshine inside!

And wood touching or not touching steel isn’t going to magically fix this.

 

[Cord]

Can't find the post and I don't remember if I read it here or on Garage Journal.

Someone made mention of it not being a good idea to attach any interior wood framing to the girts of a red iron shop. Something about moisture, or temperature and condensation, or ??

Any of y'all hear of such?

I currently have a red iron shop with interior framed walls and have not seen any concerns with it. It has the standard metal building white backed insulation and was built ~24 yrs ago.
I'm fixin to have a new shop built on our retirement property and tryin to row up my ducks on how to go about this one.

Bear in mind our current place is on the Coast south of Houston, which means HIGH HUMIDITY is an understatement. Next shop will be just a couple hundred miles north in Deep East Texas where the heat and humidity is much the same.

It's ok to have bare wood touch the iron, but not if the wood has been treated for rot, fire or termites. Often the treatment contains salts which will corrode the metal. The use of a slip sheet, such as sill flashing, is an acceptable barrier to prevent the corrosion. Wood that touches concrete should be green treated for rot resistance. I've been to Houston so I know what you mean by humid. The proper use of moisture barriers is paramount.