2538 HST Won't Start

PapaRoo · Mar 11, 2020

Hi all - I've encountered a starting problem with my 2538 that I am hoping someone can help me with. I've seen other no start threads but they didn't seem to have the exact same problem.

About a week ago, I ran the tractor for awhile and moved it to the barn. Everything was fine. I shut it down and then came back to it the next day and when I turned the key, nothing. Not so much as a wheeze from the starter. No dash lights, no hazard lights. I'm new to tractors but the only time I've ever seen anything like that with a car or truck is when the battery is stone dead. I popped the hood and WOW I have never seen that much corrosion on a battery in my life. I gather from other threads this is a known problem. I cleaned the terminals and reconnected everything, but still dead. Given that the battery was from 2015 (in a 2017 tractor) I bought a replacement.

As part of installing the replacement, I bought new positive and negative terminal connectors (the original negative fell apart when taking it off), got anti-corrosion gel, scrubbed all of the leads that were being attached to the terminals, gelled everything and put it all back together. When I put the negative connector on, I could hear that she had power again. I checked the hazard lights and they worked and the dash lights worked when key was in the ON position. I turned to START and I heard a "click" and then nothing. Dash lights gone, hazard lights gone. Nothing.

I then traced all grounds to their bolt on the frame, unbolted, cleaned, bolted. I did the same for the positive cable running to the starter solenoid. Again, when I put the connectors back onto the battery, I have dash lights and hazard lights, but as soon as I turn it to START, "click", and it's stone dead.

I figure it is electrical in nature but I do not know what. I've had no start problems due to safety switches, like having PTO engaged, but when that happens the tractor still has electric power and the dash lights are on.

I bought a newish tractor to hopefully not have to spend hours to make it run.

Any help greatly appreciated!!:worried:

RNeumann · Mar 11, 2020

Have you charged that new battery? It could be low from sitting on the shelf at the store.

I’d also replace the ground cable for sure and maybe the positive. New ends won’t cut it with that much corrosion. My guess is you have enough of a ground to turn things on but so much resistance that it won’t start it.....assuming the new battery isn’t low.

The batteries that aren’t sealed will leak with all the bouncing around in the tractor. Hopefully the new one is sealed.

sspenst · Mar 12, 2020

RNeumann said:
Have you charged that new battery? It could be low from sitting on the shelf at the store.

I would also replace the ground cable for sure and maybe the positive. New ends won't cut it with that much corrosion. My guess is you have enough of a ground to turn things on but so much resistance that it won't start it.....assuming the new battery isn't low.

The batteries that aren't sealed will leak with all the bouncing around in the tractor. Hopefully the new one is sealed.

I noticed my 2638 hst cab was starting the same thing with only 40 hours on it.... known issue. the battery was made by EXIDE when i pulled it out. it was starting to corrode my battery hold down bar.. so i called dealer and spoke to the warranty person and voila! because i live so far away she told me to go buy one. send pictures of battery, and copy of receipt and i will get a full refund! i bought a AGM battery($260)(mahindra batteries aparently are around $500??

) from my local Canadian Tire as to hopefully avoid future leaks etc...there is only 1 year warranty on the battery acording to my dealer so i acted quick! i went thru that problem on my 2014 3016 shuttle... i decided not to dilly dally around this time!
anyway i agree with RNeumann, replace at least the ground cable. may have to grind the frame connection if u haven't(wire brush isn't enough). doesn't sound like blown fuses to me. if it clicks then it sounds like a ground issue. my 3016 did the same thing, turn key and click then nothing. did it a few times and each time i had to re tighten the ground or grind the frame. seems like u can't get them tight enough.. i wouln't think the starter solenoid is bad yet.....

PapaRoo · Mar 12, 2020

Thanks to you both. I will pick up a new ground cable today and give it a shot.

RNeumann · Mar 12, 2020

sspenst said:
I noticed my 2638 hst cab was starting the same thing with only 40 hours on it.... known issue. the battery was made by EXIDE when i pulled it out. it was starting to corrode my battery hold down bar.. so i called dealer and spoke to the warranty person and voila! because i live so far away she told me to go buy one. send pictures of battery, and copy of receipt and i will get a full refund! i bought a AGM battery($260)(mahindra batteries aparently are around $500??) from my local Canadian Tire as to hopefully avoid future leaks etc...there is only 1 year warranty on the battery acording to my dealer so i acted quick! i went thru that problem on my 2014 3016 shuttle... i decided not to dilly dally around this time!
anyway i agree with RNeumann, replace at least the ground cable. may have to grind the frame connection if u haven't(wire brush isn't enough). doesn't sound like blown fuses to me. if it clicks then it sounds like a ground issue. my 3016 did the same thing, turn key and click then nothing. did it a few times and each time i had to re tighten the ground or grind the frame. seems like u can't get them tight enough.. i wouln't think the starter solenoid is bad yet.....

I too replaced mine with an AGM. I also used that battery acid neutralizer spray that goes from yellow to red or vise versa. It seemed to help clean things up. And of course a little spray paint at the end.

Roadworthy · Mar 12, 2020

If the new cable doesn't solve your problem consider removing your new battery and having it load tested. Even a new battery can be defective internally.

radios1 · Mar 12, 2020

if you have a multimeter, and someone to help, you can put it on the battery, and turn the key to start, and measure the voltage, if ok, then you can check for voltage on the positive and negative cables to their final connections, if you see a voltage there, that cable or connection is bad, and you can trace it back to the battery to find out where the connection is bad..

RNeumann · Mar 12, 2020

With a multimeter the voltage may be ok but the resistance/ohms is what I’d worry about.......Assuming the battery is good

BertZegers · Mar 12, 2020

There is no benefit at all in measuring resistance/ohms with a multi meter to find a fault. Measure voltage drop under load instead, like radio 1 suggests (with a multi meter on volt, choose 12 volt or the lowest setting above 12 volt).
For example; the negative probe on the battery negative lead post (not the clamp) and the other probe on a good clean bare metal spot on the frame or engine.
Or the positive probe on the battery positive lead post (not the clamp) and the other probe on the starter were the battery cable connects. You want to find a voltage drop in a circuit or part of a circuit.
If you find a voltage drop, than narrow down. The cheapest analog meter is good enough.

RNeumann · Mar 12, 2020

BertZegers said:
There is no benefit at all in measuring resistance/ohms with a multi meter to find a fault. Measure voltage drop under load instead, like radio 1 suggests (with a multi meter on volt, choose 12 volt or the lowest setting above 12 volt).
For example; the negative probe on the battery negative lead post (not the clamp) and the other probe on a good clean bare metal spot on the frame or engine.
Or the positive probe on the battery positive lead post (not the clamp) and the other probe on the starter were the battery cable connects. You want to find a voltage drop in a circuit or part of a circuit.
If you find a voltage drop, than narrow down. The cheapest analog meter is good enough.