Buying Advice Box blade or rear blade?

[Bullwinkle123]

Bullwinkle123- some last thoughts. A heavy rear blade is 100 to 125 pounds per foot of width. If you will be using the rear blade for snow - when you angle the blade, you effectively loose width. My 96" blade will only cut a 75" path when angled.

My thoughts on implements - any implement with moving parts - chipper, bush hog, grapple - should be kept/stored under shelter. All the others, without moving parts, can be stored outside and on a pallet or blocks. It's best to not cover implements either - moisture forms under tarps.

Have fun - don't drool. Oosik

On parts storage, I was thinking of a shed, but instead I think I'm going to try to see what I can manage with pallet racks in my garage. It isn't any kind of utility shed like most tractor guys have, but it has 12 foot ceilings and room enough, I think, for some shelving at the end of each bay. Definitely planning on keeping as much as possible inside. I have an old but useless barn too, useless because it has only a 67" clearance on entry. Maybe I can store one thing in there.

On drooling, the thing I'm drooling most about on what I'm purchasing up front is the grapple and the freedom from the tyrany of the downed trees on my bad back.

What I'm not buying, and will probably drool about for a year until I come to my senses or buy one, is a chipper/shredder and something to cart chips away (I'm thinking box designed for a pallet fork). Walking through the woods yesterday, I have some serious deadwood laying about, something about the last 10 years (increased winds from climate change?) has really knocked down a lot of trees. I'd like to turn those into compost fodder for my compost pile, and/or chip/mulch for my flower gardens and trees. But Wallenstein says the "42" model was like $5k. Just going to have to sponge up the drool for now until I see what my options are, or come to my senses.

I was also looking at trees I'd like to pull in from my narrow forest pathways with a lot of hilly aspects. Really would need a winch, no room to maneuver there to get the trees. Another drooling item for future years. I need to figure out if I can improve the side to side slope of some of those paths, or if it's just too dangerous to tractor on. THe last forestry people in there really wrecked the grade from a side-to-side aspect. Future pictures for a future post. Tractor probably not the tool for the job, but you go to war with the tractor you have, right?

 

[rScotty]

I keep ground-engaging implements -like plows, buckets, blades - outside but off the ground.

To start, we used the tractor & grapple mostly to pile trees & make toads, then rented a real chipper & helper.
rScotty

 

[oosik]

Pictures will be a help on recommendations. It shouldn't be that difficult to enlarge the barn opening if it's big enough to drive the tractor into and is still a useable structure. I think you are going about this implement purchase in the right way. Let the jobs that "poke up" - come to you and THEN decide if/what implement is required. Too many simply buy several implements, then try to figure out how they will use them. I speak from experience on one implement I purchased - and still own.

In my situation - the grapple and hydraulic top link have a been a real boon.

When I consider a new implement - I buy with the thought that it should last as long as the tractor.

With my first tractor( Ford 1700 4WD) I had a Wallenstein BX42S. With the M6040 I got a new Wally BX62S. I chip 900 - 1200 small pines every spring. Thinning my pine stands. The BX62S is plenty chipper for my use. I chip nothing bigger than 6" on the butt. Besides a pine tree that is 6" on the butt and some 30' long is a real PITA to drag out and pile. After I thin a stand there will be 40 to 60 small pines - lying heater-skelter - like a big game of Pick-Up-Sticks. This spring time activity usually takes a month - or until I got really tired and have tripped and fallen a few times.

 

[Citydude]

On parts storage, I was thinking of a shed, but instead I think I'm going to try to see what I can manage with pallet racks in my garage. It isn't any kind of utility shed like most tractor guys have, but it has 12 foot ceilings and room enough, I think, for some shelving at the end of each bay. Definitely planning on keeping as much as possible inside. I have an old but useless barn too, useless because it has only a 67" clearance on entry. Maybe I can store one thing in there.

On drooling, the thing I'm drooling most about on what I'm purchasing up front is the grapple and the freedom from the tyrany of the downed trees on my bad back.

What I'm not buying, and will probably drool about for a year until I come to my senses or buy one, is a chipper/shredder and something to cart chips away (I'm thinking box designed for a pallet fork). Walking through the woods yesterday, I have some serious deadwood laying about, something about the last 10 years (increased winds from climate change?) has really knocked down a lot of trees. I'd like to turn those into compost fodder for my compost pile, and/or chip/mulch for my flower gardens and trees. But Wallenstein says the "42" model was like $5k. Just going to have to sponge up the drool for now until I see what my options are, or come to my senses.

I was also looking at trees I'd like to pull in from my narrow forest pathways with a lot of hilly aspects. Really would need a winch, no room to maneuver there to get the trees. Another drooling item for future years. I need to figure out if I can improve the side to side slope of some of those paths, or if it's just too dangerous to tractor on. THe last forestry people in there really wrecked the grade from a side-to-side aspect. Future pictures for a future post. Tractor probably not the tool for the job, but you go to war with the tractor you have, right?

How I approached my implement acquisition is to have a solid plan of what needs to be done vs what would be nice to get done.

I bought my property after it had been neglected for 15-20 years. There were a multitude of beetle killed trees that needed to come down. A skidding winch was bought.

After they were removed, the grapple was bought to manage the massive slash piles.

The road into the property needed reshaped and graveled. A heavy duty rear blade was bought.

Now, after burning large slash piles every winter a chipper is next in the list. I’m not a fan of burn piles because of the time involved gathering limbs and hauling to a slash pile then the 2-3 days of it burning.

In the future, I need to widen out trails to get my tractor down the ridge for more tree extraction. I will most likely rent a mini ex for this project because of the side hill conditions.

 

[fried1765]

They're several within just a short drive of where I live. Most are crop dusters, but ones just a private plane runway.

There are many hundreds, if not thousands of "grass strips" across the USA.

 

[LouNY]

Well I'm late for this discussion but you are heading in the right direction.
The rear blade is the tool that you will need for your driveway.
I will also add get a wider one with at least the ability to add the hydraulic controls as you will find that they are needed.
Definitely get a rear hydraulic on your tractor preferably more then one.
You are going to find that you will be cleaning out your ditches every year,
doing so you will be tilting angling and many times offsetting your blade, the tilt will be needing to be varied as you are moving along.
Also you will find that your ditches fill up with organic material (leaves and grass and brush) that will need to be removed,
the blade can pull it up and onto the driveway leaving it in a windrow to be picked up in the loader bucket.
Then you can pull material into and crown your driveway with the blade, then reverse the blade and pulling it backwards slightly spread the material and pack it a bit with the weight of the blade. It is difficult to buy to heavy of a blade if your tractor can lift it it's not to heavy.
A six way blade can be run with one rear remote if you add a pair of diverter valves to the blade. And then one for a hydraulic top link.
If you try and work your driveway with a manual adjusted blade it will not be adjusted right 90% of the time.

Also I do not like a york rake for driveway maintenance I do use mine for cleaning the ditches and shoulders of the driveway,
in our area they do not work well for maintaining a driveway as they separate the materials leaving the fines and rowing the stones.

 

[fried1765]

For our 30 hp tractor I bought a nice manual "Land Pride" six foot wide blade that was heavily built and made all the pivoting motions that I wanted. Plus removeable end caps. It does offset, angle, & tilt.

It cost more than I expected.... but is very nice. The end caps turn it into an angling box blade, too.

It came as a manual type, but can be upgraded at any time with hydraulic cylinders for any of the motions because this brand comes with hydraulic cylinder attachment points already welded on. If I get rear remotes (someday) I can just order cylinders and hoses from a surplus hydraulics shop online.
rScotty

EA also builds a VERY NICE manual rear blade, with removable end caps/plates.
It doubles as a regular rear blade, and a box blade.
It does not have rippers as a traditional box blade does.

 

[PEJ5]

On parts storage, I was thinking of a shed, but instead I think I'm going to try to see what I can manage with pallet racks in my garage. It isn't any kind of utility shed like most tractor guys have, but it has 12 foot ceilings and room enough, I think, for some shelving at the end of each bay. Definitely planning on keeping as much as possible inside. I have an old but useless barn too, useless because it has only a 67" clearance on entry. Maybe I can store one thing in there.

On drooling, the thing I'm drooling most about on what I'm purchasing up front is the grapple and the freedom from the tyrany of the downed trees on my bad back.

What I'm not buying, and will probably drool about for a year until I come to my senses or buy one, is a chipper/shredder and something to cart chips away (I'm thinking box designed for a pallet fork). Walking through the woods yesterday, I have some serious deadwood laying about, something about the last 10 years (increased winds from climate change?) has really knocked down a lot of trees. I'd like to turn those into compost fodder for my compost pile, and/or chip/mulch for my flower gardens and trees. But Wallenstein says the "42" model was like $5k. Just going to have to sponge up the drool for now until I see what my options are, or come to my senses.

I was also looking at trees I'd like to pull in from my narrow forest pathways with a lot of hilly aspects. Really would need a winch, no room to maneuver there to get the trees. Another drooling item for future years. I need to figure out if I can improve the side to side slope of some of those paths, or if it's just too dangerous to tractor on. THe last forestry people in there really wrecked the grade from a side-to-side aspect. Future pictures for a future post. Tractor probably not the tool for the job, but you go to war with the tractor you have, right?

I need a couple of friends with tractors and different implements so we can share and trust that we'll each take care of the item.
We cross piled brush and used the forks to carry them to the burn area, but you do have to handle the material multiple times. Burning is not good, but chips are great to build up walking paths and spread as mulch. As a result we recently purchased a Woodland Mills 6" chipper with hydraulic infeed. I am looking forward to making progress on the property this spring. BTW: I ruined the lens coating on my glasses while tending burn piles and that $400 replacement cost can be factored into your purchase decision
I picked up a couple damaged IBC 1000 litre containers to use the metal frame for firewood. The plastic container, cut in half and screwed to a pallet, makes a great chip catcher and mover.
I too am scared of crossing my slopes and would wish for a winch to get logs out.
Finally, I see you have 180 acres so you will get great use out of any implement that you decide to invest in.

 

[ovrszd]

You know that is truer than most people realize. It is not a North/South or East/West issue only. The soil, climate and soil types can vary greatly in very short distances sometimes, especially here the soil. We can have sandy land you will never see water standing on next to a swamp or river. I think I am right decent with a rear blade but don't ask me on moving snow or getting rocks out the ground or grading such ground as the op has. That is one reason our location needs to be in our info. As to grass drive ways, you often see a grass private plane run way here.

Yep, often ignored. I maintain 50 miles of gravel roads covering 36 square miles. All of them aren't ready for maintenance at the same time. Too much variation in soil type and drainage.

As Deezler said, here we never, ever bury organic material in a roadbed. If building a road I cut all the organic material and a few inches of the topsoil off an windrow it out of the way. Then build the road base with whatever subsoil is available at the site. Sometimes pushing it quite a distance to access better soil. Then the organic material is spread onto the borrow area if possible.

In late Summer I cut loose the organic material that has grown on the shoulders thru the Summer. Windrow it on the shoulder and let it decay. Then carry it back and forth across the roadbed until all that's left is the heavier roots, etc. Leave that laying on the shoulder and it gets knocked off with the first snow removal.

In any discussion about a topic that could be affected region it's very important to know the location of the poster. There are some here on TBN that refuse to divulge even their State. I simply put no credence to their offerings because I know nothing about where it comes from.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

With my first tractor( Ford 1700 4WD) I had a Wallenstein BX42S. With the M6040 I got a new Wally BX62S. I chip 900 - 1200 small pines every spring. Thinning my pine stands. The BX62S is plenty chipper for my use. I chip nothing bigger than 6" on the butt. Besides a pine tree that is 6" on the butt and some 30' long is a real PITA to drag out and pile. After I thin a stand there will be 40 to 60 small pines - lying heater-skelter - like a big game of Pick-Up-Sticks. This spring time activity usually takes a month - or until I got really tired and have tripped and fallen a few times.

A little off topic, but I'm certainly interesting in the chipper/shreadder stuff, and the Wllensteins, but not for this year. Unfortunately I may not be able to salvage all the old rotting pines that have been sitting in the forsest for years. Dry I'm guessing they're hard on the chipper. Wet, like they are now in pre-spring, well, they're not dry (soaked through), but they're not green wood either, and the semi-rotting wood probably isn't good for the chipper either. Opinions welcome. I look at the gigantic mess and just wish I could turn it into mulch or compost.