Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

[ptsg]

That's indeed very odd.

I've never had that problem with mine. Mine just drifts a bit but that's normal because I built the top link using a cylinder I had laying around and it really needs a seal kit. Leaks internal and externally, just a drip. But randomly getting air in the cylinder never happened to me.

Do you happen to know if you remotes both on the Ford and Kubota, have load check valves? It's a cap/plug in between the two work ports. I wonder if that would make a difference in your top link.

 

[ovrszd]

That's indeed very odd.

I've never had that problem with mine. Mine just drifts a bit but that's normal because I built the top link using a cylinder I had laying around and it really needs a seal kit. Leaks internal and externally, just a drip. But randomly getting air in the cylinder never happened to me.

Do you happen to know if you remotes both on the Ford and Kubota, have load check valves? It's a cap/plug in between the two work ports. I wonder if that would make a difference in your top link.

I don't think either of them do.

I'll look this evening for sure.

 

[bryn67]

It's very frustrating. I went thru it a few years ago. I never found a solution. I've had my hydraulic top link for 7 years I think. It operates today exactly like it did 7 years ago. Acts exactly like yours.

If I want precision control I extend/retract a couple times and then it's solid for awhile with short movements. Then for no apparent reason the air is back. Both of my tractors act the same way.

I tried switching rear remotes. 3 on the Kubota, 2 on the Ford. No difference.

There are several members here with the same problem. Most, like me, just deal with it. Some give up and go back to a mechanical top link. I won't ever go that route.

Can anyone tell me how to check the hydraulic fluid level because before attaching the 3 point I cycled the hydraulic top link a few times and then left the ram fully extended and then checked the fluid level. It was at the bottom mark on the dip stick. I connected the 3 point up and raised it fully with the top link ram extended and the fluid is way over the top mark on dip stick. I have never touched the fluid since new and may have lost a cup full over the time due to a bust hose.

 

[ovrszd]

This is a complex subject and even the manufacturers vary on their suggestions.

I don't want my hydraulic fluid to be too low. Not worried much about it being over full.

I check my loader tractor with the bucket setting on the ground. Don't pay much attention to 3pt.

I check my non loader tractor however it's setting when I perform the check. Don't pay any attention to attachments or 3pt.

 

[K5lwq]

Richard, do you have the same problem on other cylinders you might control with your remotes?

Like Ptsg, I have not had a problem getting air in my top link yet. I have used mine on the Kioti and the Branson. Works equally well on both.

 

[bryn67]

This is a complex subject and even the manufacturers vary on their suggestions.

I don't want my hydraulic fluid to be too low. Not worried much about it being over full.

I check my loader tractor with the bucket setting on the ground. Don't pay much attention to 3pt.

I check my non loader tractor however it's setting when I perform the check. Don't pay any attention to attachments or 3pt.

Do you know of any problems if it’s over filled. I intend to try 1/2 litres at a time. I have to try something.

 

[npalen]

This is a long shot, but is it possible that air in the top link has anything to do with the fact that the 3PH floats during most operations?
Is the 3PH cylinder, in this case, acting like a vacuum pump?

 

[bryn67]

Do you know of any problems if it’s over filled. I intend to try 1/2 litres at a time. I have to try something.

Well I have just put about a litre in and no difference although at one point I did think that things were improving because the ram would stay halfway when the 3 point was lowered. I decided to have a go at bleeding from the hose connected to the blind side and was convinced that I was getting closer because I think a lot of air bubbles were seen. I retried cycling and dropped the 3 point down and it was as bad as ever, the top link went all the way back in. I recycled a few times and bled the system again about 3 times. No luck. My shed and myself are full of hydraulic fluid. This top link is a disaster and a waste of time and money.

 

[K5lwq]

Well I have just put about a litre in and no difference although at one point I did think that things were improving because the ram would stay halfway when the 3 point was lowered. I decided to have a go at bleeding from the hose connected to the blind side and was convinced that I was getting closer because I think a lot of air bubbles were seen. I retried cycling and dropped the 3 point down and it was as bad as ever, the top link went all the way back in. I recycled a few times and bled the system again about 3 times. No luck. My shed and myself are full of hydraulic fluid. This top link is a disaster and a waste of time and money.

This sounds like you tried bleeding the line similar to bleeding a brake line? You should not crack the lines.

When you cycled the cylinder to do the seal test, and the cylinder did not move, at that point you had all the air out of the system.

Please explain the steps you went through after that point.

 

[bryn67]

This sounds like you tried bleeding the line similar to bleeding a brake line? You should not crack the lines.

When you cycled the cylinder to do the seal test, and the cylinder did not move, at that point you had all the air out of the system.

Please explain the steps you went through after that point.

I cycled it again a few more times. Then connected up the top link to the 3 point. Lowered the 3 point onto the ground with the top link ram nearly fully extended. The top link ram only moved in about 1/4 of the way in so I thought I was winning but realised I had not lowered the rake onto the dolly and the tines were digging into the concrete so raised it and put the dolly under and lowered it again. This time it went about 1/2 way which was the best so far. I then decided to try bleeding so I removed the hose from the tractor going to the “ blind side” ( opposite to rod end ) Because this type of coupling caps both ends when removed I then released the pressure on the ram by pushing in the ball bearing on the hose and allowing the fluid to run into a container ( after the initial high pressure squirt) . There were signs of air . Refit hose and I cycled a few more times with the rake attached. Lowered again and ram this time was worse, about 3/4 in so bled again same as above. There was plenty of air so expected good results but after another few cycles lowered it slowly and the ram still went in 3/4. After being spayed with oil and all over the floor decided to leave it overnight with the rake down on a dolly and pressure left on the ram. I took a measurement of 90mm of ram out and will measure again in morning.