Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I'm thinking in the case of 3PH mower, for example, that done once you could run all day or until you no longer wanted float. I do think that in this case, the hose to the cylinder base would need to remain disconnected, however.

I've never tried it so don't know. Would be interesting to try.

Why disconnect, just don't actuate the lever to ever put fluid in the base end.

 

[ptsg]

Why disconnect, just don't actuate the lever to ever put fluid in the base end.

I use the "makeshift float" technique on my backhoe quite often. When I'm grading, I just let the boom go down fast to purposefully introducing air into the system, then it just moves freely and contours the ground as I bring the stick towards my direction.

 

[npalen]

Why disconnect, just don't actuate the lever to ever put fluid in the base end.

You're right, I was confusing the toplink cylinder with the 3PH for raising the attachment. My bad.

Edit: I do use the toplink cylinder quite often when grading with my box blade. It has gauge wheels on the back so using the toplink works great to "feather" the box blade up to gradually dump a load of dirt.
My Kubota is older and doesn't have really fine control of the 3PH. Seems like its all or none when trying to slightly raise the 3PH.

 

[npalen]

I use the "makeshift float" technique on my backhoe quite often. When I'm grading, I just let the boom go down fast to purposefully introducing air into the system, then it just moves freely and contours the ground as I bring the stick towards my direction.

Interesting! Good to know that is does work.

 

[bryn67]

I have tried that many ways I’m getting mixed up. I do know that I haven’t tried your last suggestion, having one plugged in and one unplugged with the engine running and operating the hydraulics. I’m not sure what is meant by the”blind side.” Will have go when finished making a video of both lines in and both unplugged.

To K51wq I have now carried out the test as described, I cycled it 10 times with no load. Left the ram 1/2 in/out. Disconnected hose from tractor end at ram. ( opposite end to rod ) . Started tractor and operated valve to bring the ram in. Ram does NOT move in any direction.

 

[K5lwq]

To K51wq I have now carried out the test as described, I cycled it 10 times with no load. Left the ram 1/2 in/out. Disconnected hose from tractor end at ram. ( opposite end to rod ) . Started tractor and operated valve to bring the ram in. Ram does NOT move in any direction.

Perfect! That means your cylinder is fine. The problem is now going to be with the valve or plumbing. Are you using factory remotes or did you add the remote valve?

 

[bryn67]

Perfect! That means your cylinder is fine. The problem is now going to be with the valve or plumbing. Are you using factory remotes or did you add the remote valve?

They are factory remotes. Never used them before. Tractor is about 8 years old.

 

[K5lwq]

Are you seeing any evidence of hydraulic fluid leaks around the valve or any of the plumbing? Word of caution! Do not use your hand to feel for a leak. Under pressure it can cut right through your skin.

We are very certain air is being introduced somehow to the system.

We know you have tried metering the valve manually to keep air out with no success.

We know the cylinder seals are good. Also can be reasonable certain the air is out at the moment.

Next step I would take, if no external leaks could be found, would be try the blade again. It is possible that you were never able to get all the air out for reasons unknown and it will perform better now. Try making small adjustments at a time or keep the movement of the rod slow as possible. If air returns, think about what you were doing that could cause air getting in.

Keep us informed on how it goes and what you find! Good luck!

 

[bryn67]

Are you seeing any evidence of hydraulic fluid leaks around the valve or any of the plumbing? Word of caution! Do not use your hand to feel for a leak. Under pressure it can cut right through your skin.

We are very certain air is being introduced somehow to the system.

We know you have tried metering the valve manually to keep air out with no success.

We know the cylinder seals are good. Also can be reasonable certain the air is out at the moment.

Next step I would take, if no external leaks could be found, would be try the blade again. It is possible that you were never able to get all the air out for reasons unknown and it will perform better now. Try making small adjustments at a time or keep the movement of the rod slow as possible. If air returns, think about what you were doing that could cause air getting in.

Keep us informed on how it goes and what you find! Good luck!

Ok thanks. I know that there are no hydraulic leaks anyway. I will couple up the rake and just allow the three point down and see what happens. This will be tomorrow.

 

[ovrszd]

It's very frustrating. I went thru it a few years ago. I never found a solution. I've had my hydraulic top link for 7 years I think. It operates today exactly like it did 7 years ago. Acts exactly like yours.

If I want precision control I extend/retract a couple times and then it's solid for awhile with short movements. Then for no apparent reason the air is back. Both of my tractors act the same way.

I tried switching rear remotes. 3 on the Kubota, 2 on the Ford. No difference.

There are several members here with the same problem. Most, like me, just deal with it. Some give up and go back to a mechanical top link. I won't ever go that route.