Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar

[RDW8932]

Well said and spoken from experience. And now this conversation is completed.

 

[jodebg]

Just bought a new 261-C-m. Any advise as to what type of chain is best for cutting hardwood? Dealer spoke of the RM and the RM3 Safety chain. They advised the green bar and the RM3 chain.

 

[RandyT]

Of course they advised for the green safety components since all new saws sold under 3.8 ci are required to have safety chain. For the average person there is nothing wrong with safety chain. If you want to upgrade you can go with full chisel, and even some of those are available in low kickback configurations.

 

[dgeesaman]

Just bought a new 261-C-m. Any advise as to what type of chain is best for cutting hardwood? Dealer spoke of the RM and the RM3 Safety chain. They advised the green bar and the RM3 chain.

I've done both and I cut hardwood. Oak, ash, cherry, maple.

Unless that wood and bark is perfectly clean, I can't get a full tank out of a full chisel chain before it's throwing dust. When it is clean wood, full chisel does cut faster. But it gets dull quickly so that just gets me back to sharpening sooner. And if you nick a little bit of anything, the full chisel gets instantly dull.

David

 

[s219]

Unless you need to do bore cuts or plunge cuts, the green safety chain is just fine. 99% of firewood cutters will do great with it. The yellow (regular) chain only has an advantage when you are cutting with the tip of the bar. Along the flat, the chains behave identically.

RM chains are semi-chisel (rounded cutter) and these are more durable when cutting dirty wood, or just general purpose cutting overall.

RS chains are full-chisel (square cutter) and are higher performance, but dull more easily. In fact, one cut in dirty wood can kill an RS chain and it will need a filing right away.

I tend to prefer semi-chisel since I can cut with it longer between filings and that makes me more productive overall. But if I am dealing with clean wood, I will go with full chisel.

Both types of chain are available in green (safety) or yellow (standard) versions.

As far as the bar shape, I have both green and yellow bars, and I can't really tell the difference. The green bar's nose shape is less likely to invoke a kickback, but I really don't notice a difference in performance or safety between the two bars.

 

[ericm979]

The Stihl safety chain I have will do bore cuts, but it's slower at them than non safety chain. I use mostly full chisel on my larger (60cc+) saws but if the wood's dirty or I'm cutting a stump flush I use the semi chisel. You need extra chains anyhow so I think the answer is to get some of each. I've been impressed with the 63RS3 that came on my 241. It's a full chisel but wears like a semi chisel. That's a 3/8 LP chain, I don't know if their .325 chains are similar.

I also don't notice much difference between safety and non safety bars.

 

[jodebg]

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information. Heading out to purchase the yellow and will have one of each to use, thanks.

 

[minton]

Looking for a reliable, low maintenance...did I saw reliable saw? Have a H345E piece of junk, was a Christmas present aprox.'07'. Day out of box when you laid it on the side to

fill with fuel, had a slow leak. Take it back to the dealer, **** it's brand new! Continued for several years but not (to me) worth the inconvenience to return to the dealer. Always wearing out bar and chains due to (in my opinion) bad oiling, no manual oiling feature.

Last 3 days trying to get it running after3+ years of no stomach to fool with it again.

Fast forward to the last 4 days. Purge bubble replaced, plug, straighten out chain adjuster, new chain w old bar (16") fired up and rain long enough to cut up a downed 7in, pine.

Okay must be fixed, later, try to crank again and won't start. Got spark, pulled plug smelled like gas, dried it out, no start and the pull cord rope broke.

Remove carb. not for a leak, just to look at it. Next pull cord. Spring didn't come out with the reel, good thing, (due for one...good thing)

Fast forward, part of today couldn't orientate spring position after multiple You tube viewing and following input.

The whole spring eventually came out.xcxxxxxtrdeyuyt. I'm so pissed I could chew and spit nails. I know you guys never find youreself in those situations.

Sounds like a simple process to get the cord back in and then just buy a new carb, right?

Then why am I looking for a new saw?

All of the ones have features I think are ridiculous, environmental friendly, lower CC, lower HP which provides justification to charge more if that is your thing. Somebody needs to tell
all the other countries in the world to reduce their i.e. carbon footprint, we do one **** of a job in this country in regards to that but with COMMONSENSE).

Need from the gut no punches pulled input...Thanks

PS saw used to cut FW, take down some large trees (when the beetles destroy them) and I have tons of trees down to beetles. Need pro quality/farm saw that isn't an arm and a leg..and did
I saw reliable and low maintenance?

 

[dodge man]

I’m not sure if you are looking at MS261 or just venting but I just bought a MS261 a few weeks ago. I’ve run maybe 6 tanks of fuel through it so far. It starts easy, lots of power, and so far so good. I’ll tell you in 5 years or so how it works in the long run.

 

[Motorboatin]

My 261 is six or seven years old and has turned into a great saw. I bought it with a 20 bar and wasn’t impressed. Went down to an 18 and it was still lacking. Once I switched to a 16 bar the saw really started to shine

I cut mostly oak and cherry