Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar

   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #41  
Well said and spoken from experience. And now this conversation is completed.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #42  
Just bought a new 261-C-m. Any advise as to what type of chain is best for cutting hardwood? Dealer spoke of the RM and the RM3 Safety chain. They advised the green bar and the RM3 chain.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #43  
Of course they advised for the green safety components since all new saws sold under 3.8 ci are required to have safety chain. For the average person there is nothing wrong with safety chain. If you want to upgrade you can go with full chisel, and even some of those are available in low kickback configurations.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #44  
Just bought a new 261-C-m. Any advise as to what type of chain is best for cutting hardwood? Dealer spoke of the RM and the RM3 Safety chain. They advised the green bar and the RM3 chain.

I've done both and I cut hardwood. Oak, ash, cherry, maple.

Unless that wood and bark is perfectly clean, I can't get a full tank out of a full chisel chain before it's throwing dust. When it is clean wood, full chisel does cut faster. But it gets dull quickly so that just gets me back to sharpening sooner. And if you nick a little bit of anything, the full chisel gets instantly dull.

David
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #45  
Unless you need to do bore cuts or plunge cuts, the green safety chain is just fine. 99% of firewood cutters will do great with it. The yellow (regular) chain only has an advantage when you are cutting with the tip of the bar. Along the flat, the chains behave identically.

RM chains are semi-chisel (rounded cutter) and these are more durable when cutting dirty wood, or just general purpose cutting overall.

RS chains are full-chisel (square cutter) and are higher performance, but dull more easily. In fact, one cut in dirty wood can kill an RS chain and it will need a filing right away.

I tend to prefer semi-chisel since I can cut with it longer between filings and that makes me more productive overall. But if I am dealing with clean wood, I will go with full chisel.

Both types of chain are available in green (safety) or yellow (standard) versions.

As far as the bar shape, I have both green and yellow bars, and I can't really tell the difference. The green bar's nose shape is less likely to invoke a kickback, but I really don't notice a difference in performance or safety between the two bars.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #46  
The Stihl safety chain I have will do bore cuts, but it's slower at them than non safety chain. I use mostly full chisel on my larger (60cc+) saws but if the wood's dirty or I'm cutting a stump flush I use the semi chisel. You need extra chains anyhow so I think the answer is to get some of each. I've been impressed with the 63RS3 that came on my 241. It's a full chisel but wears like a semi chisel. That's a 3/8 LP chain, I don't know if their .325 chains are similar.

I also don't notice much difference between safety and non safety bars.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #47  
Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information. Heading out to purchase the yellow and will have one of each to use, thanks.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #48  
Looking for a reliable, low maintenance...did I saw reliable saw? Have a H345E piece of junk, was a Christmas present aprox.'07'. Day out of box when you laid it on the side to

fill with fuel, had a slow leak. Take it back to the dealer, **** it's brand new! Continued for several years but not (to me) worth the inconvenience to return to the dealer. Always wearing out bar and chains due to (in my opinion) bad oiling, no manual oiling feature.

Last 3 days trying to get it running after3+ years of no stomach to fool with it again.

Fast forward to the last 4 days. Purge bubble replaced, plug, straighten out chain adjuster, new chain w old bar (16") fired up and rain long enough to cut up a downed 7in, pine.

Okay must be fixed, later, try to crank again and won't start. Got spark, pulled plug smelled like gas, dried it out, no start and the pull cord rope broke.

Remove carb. not for a leak, just to look at it. Next pull cord. Spring didn't come out with the reel, good thing, (due for one...good thing)

Fast forward, part of today couldn't orientate spring position after multiple You tube viewing and following input.

The whole spring eventually came out.xcxxxxxtrdeyuyt. I'm so pissed I could chew and spit nails. I know you guys never find youreself in those situations.

Sounds like a simple process to get the cord back in and then just buy a new carb, right?

Then why am I looking for a new saw?

All of the ones have features I think are ridiculous, environmental friendly, lower CC, lower HP which provides justification to charge more if that is your thing. Somebody needs to tell
all the other countries in the world to reduce their i.e. carbon footprint, we do one **** of a job in this country in regards to that but with COMMONSENSE).

Need from the gut no punches pulled input...Thanks

PS saw used to cut FW, take down some large trees (when the beetles destroy them) and I have tons of trees down to beetles. Need pro quality/farm saw that isn't an arm and a leg..and did
I saw reliable and low maintenance?
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #49  
I’m not sure if you are looking at MS261 or just venting but I just bought a MS261 a few weeks ago. I’ve run maybe 6 tanks of fuel through it so far. It starts easy, lots of power, and so far so good. I’ll tell you in 5 years or so how it works in the long run.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #50  
My 261 is six or seven years old and has turned into a great saw. I bought it with a 20 bar and wasn’t impressed. Went down to an 18 and it was still lacking. Once I switched to a 16 bar the saw really started to shine

I cut mostly oak and cherry
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #51  
I had a 261 and it was a great saw. Being a pro model Stihl, it's built well and will last a long time. Only weakness was poor chip flow. If you noodle with that saw it will get clogged up something fierce. Stihl changed the clutch cover on newer models to save weight, and I don't know if that makes the problem better or worse. For regular cutting it will probably be fine for 99% of users.

I sold my 261 when I got a larger 60cc Husky that was much more powerful and not much heavier. I just stopped using the 261 enough to keep it around. Sold it to a forum member here.

I would buy another 261 in a heartbeat if I needed a 50cc Stihl. Husky and Echo also make good 50cc pro saws.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #52  
I知 not sure if you are looking at MS261 or just venting but I just bought a MS261 a few weeks ago. I致e run maybe 6 tanks of fuel through it so far. It starts easy, lots of power, and so far so good. I値l tell you in 5 years or so how it works in the long run.

Hi Dodge man...both, mainly the venting. 5 years at my age may not occur. Thanks for the reply.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #53  
I had a 261 and it was a great saw. Being a pro model Stihl, it's built well and will last a long time. Only weakness was poor chip flow. If you noodle with that saw it will get clogged up something fierce. Stihl changed the clutch cover on newer models to save weight, and I don't know if that makes the problem better or worse. For regular cutting it will probably be fine for 99% of users.

I sold my 261 when I got a larger 60cc Husky that was much more powerful and not much heavier. I just stopped using the 261 enough to keep it around. Sold it to a forum member here.

I would buy another 261 in a heartbeat if I needed a 50cc Stihl. Husky and Echo also make good 50cc pro saws.

I'm a little gun shy of Husks...I'm trying to get the spring back in the cup it comes in now. So far no success but I'll give it a few more attempts. Thanks for the feedback.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #54  
My 261 is six or seven years old and has turned into a great saw. I bought it with a 20 bar and wasn稚 impressed. Went down to an 18 and it was still lacking. Once I switched to a 16 bar the saw really started to shine

I cut mostly oak and cherry

16 is whats on my 345E..wouldn't mind one that could handle an 18 for some situation. Working on putting the return spring back in now. Thanks
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #55  
I have a Stihl 360 I have had for 15 years or more and I run an 18 inch on it. I like it for making firewood. In Texas our trees aren't real big just a lot of hard oak.

PS
I just realized I have a Stihl 36 not a 360. My buddy has a 360. And I use a lot of my firewood as BBQ wood. I also cut more dead wood than green wood.
 
Last edited:
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #56  
I have a Stihl 360 I have had for 15 years or more and I run an 18 inch on it. I like it for making firewood. In Texas our trees aren't real big just a lot of hard oak.

I'm in MS and run into the same trees, have a lot of pines that beetles have taken out, some good size ones. Couldn't find how to enter more profile data but will

try later. Thanks.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #57  
Spent all day trying to rewind the spring, that's it, going into the trash/crush pile, never will I own a H again. Total pieces of uyt78urueiwy!

Looked up new spring, can't distinguish whether they come coiled or not, carbs same, made in China uidhjehuihgfruih!

As a side note, they, children, bought me a new H riding mower few years back which has less than 150hrs., cuts uneven, changed spindles twice, lost count of blades and

I'm fed up with it too.
 
Last edited:
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #58  
Spent all day trying to rewind the spring, that's it, going into the trash/crush pile, never will I own a H again. Total pieces of uyt78urueiwy!

Looked up new spring, can't distinguish whether they come coiled or not, carbs same, made in China uidhjehuihgfruih!

As a side note, they, children, bought me a new H riding mower few years back which has less than 150hrs., cuts uneven, changed spindles twice, lost count of blades and

I'm fed up with it too.

Ditto on the Husq Riding mower. I gave mine away. POS.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #59  
Ditto on the Husq Riding mower. I gave mine away. POS.

Yes sad, a 1,700.00 piece of probably inferior metal and definitely poor workmanship. I'm gonna refrain from my opinion of IKEA, another Swedish manufacturer.
 
   / Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar #60  
I had a 261 and it was a great saw. Being a pro model Stihl, it's built well and will last a long time. Only weakness was poor chip flow. If you noodle with that saw it will get clogged up something fierce. Stihl changed the clutch cover on newer models to save weight, and I don't know if that makes the problem better or worse. For regular cutting it will probably be fine for 99% of users.

I sold my 261 when I got a larger 60cc Husky that was much more powerful and not much heavier. I just stopped using the 261 enough to keep it around. Sold it to a forum member here.

I would buy another 261 in a heartbeat if I needed a 50cc Stihl. Husky and Echo also make good 50cc pro saws.

I have an early version MS261 and yes, if you noodle with it or if you do not watch your chip flow it can be a problem. I just keep an eye on it and stop and pull the noodles out if necessary. I really like the saw and it is my go to. Good all around saw, starts easy, fairly light weight and decent power, dependable.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

JOHN DEERE ROW MARKERS - SET OF STACK FOLD 12 ROW 30 INCH ROW MARKERS (A55315)
JOHN DEERE ROW...
2009 Skeeter SL190 19ft Boat with 21ft Boat Trailer (A59231)
2009 Skeeter SL190...
2014 Ford Fusion Passenger Car, 2.5L Engine - Only 90,875 Miles (A56438)
2014 Ford Fusion...
2007 CHEVROLET 3500 DUALLY 4X4 DIESEL TRUCK (A59575)
2007 CHEVROLET...
2016 Ford Transit 350 Cargo Van (A59230)
2016 Ford Transit...
2013 BMW 328i Sedan (A55853)
2013 BMW 328i...
 
Top