Which size tractor--help, please

[Dakota Joe]

Please help me size my new tractor!

I am a noob, alas, but have greatly enjoyed learning from you all over the past months reading your very interesting posts and advice to others.

We have 165 acres in Western Massachusetts, just under the Appalachian Trail, shared by three families. About 50 acres of meadows, 15 acres of scrub/border land, 60 acres of forest, 10 acres for houses, 30 acres runs up the mountain to the Trail and is too steep for a tractor.

The house lawns get cut with a Cheetah.

For the last 25 years, the walking trails (3 miles around the meadows, 8-9 feet wide, which get cut with a finish mower once a week during growing season) and forest trails (2 miles, 6-8 feet wide, bush hogged a few times a year) have been maintained by a caretaker with a 1995 Kubota L2350 pulling a 5 foot bush hog and a bush hog finish mower. The 60 acres of meadows have been cut by local farmers with their big tractors--but we envision taking back care of those in a few years and just bush hogging them 1-2 time a year, as currently happens with scrub/border land.

I don't expect a ton of FEL work, but in addition to the mowing above, would expect applications to be:

Moving stones (not too huge)
Maintain 1/4 mile of gravel driveway, every two or three years
Moving piles of brush
Moving downed trees from lawns and from walking trails
Regrading grass and dirt trails to deal with impaction, erosion, wet areas, etc
Possibly plowing drives in winter, but the snow amount is dropping fast as things warm

As things warm, the precipitation is picking up and the trees are growing mossier and the soil is damp more often. The L2350 has turf tires and I think I would stick with those. (The L2350 has been great, but in retrospect was probably too small this whole time.)

I would like to buy one tractor that can last the next 30 years. I don't have much experience driving or operating one, but as I move closer to retirement I hope to take that over.

On the one hand, I'd like it not to tear up or compact the trails too bad given how things can be more damp here now, and I'd like it to work in the forest trails (through which the Kubota L2350 just fits with a 5 foot bush hog).

On the other hand, I only want to buy one tractor and to have it be sufficiently powered and not to have any regrets.

I expect we'll probably get a Kubota again.

What size do you think I should get?

Thank you so much.

 

[jeff9366]

Kubota L2350
1991 - 1998 L50 Series
Compact Utility tractor
Manufacturer: Kubota

Variants:
L2350F: 2WD
L2350DT: 4WD

Kubota L2350 Engine:
Kubota 1.1L 3-cyl diesel
Kubota L2350 Power:
Engine (gross): 25 hp [18.6 kW]
PTO (claimed): 20.5 hp [15.3 kW]


Capacity:
Fuel: 7.7 gal [29.1 L]
Hydraulic system: 7.4 gal [28.0 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Rear lift: 1433 lbs [650 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: live
Rear RPM: 540

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 61.2 inches [155 cm]
Weight: 2200 lbs [997 kg]
Front tire: 7-14
4WD Rear tire: 11.2-24
full dimensions and tires ...

Kubota L2350 attachments:
front-end loader


L2350 Serial Numbers:
Location: Serial number plate on the left side of the L2350 tractor frame, above the front axle.
photo of L2350 serial number

1991: unknown
1992: 51460 (L2350DT)
1993: 52900 (L2350DT)
1994: 55760 (L2350DT)

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x2 2WD
4x4 MFWD 4WD
Steering: power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 7.4 gal [28.0 L]
Pump flow: 4.4 gpm [16.7 lpm]

Electrical:
Ground: negative

Battery:
Number: 1
Volts: 12

Page information:
Last update: December 28, 2018
Copyright: Copyright 2018 TractorData LLC
Contact: Peter@TractorData.com

 

[Peter 315]

That's what he has now and want's a bigger tractor.......

 

[jeff9366]

One increment more capable than your Kubota L2350 is the Kubota L2501. However L2501 can barely manage a 5' Rotary Cutter with 25-horsepower.

Moving stones (not too huge) WHAT WEIGHT??
Maintain 1/4 mile of gravel driveway, every two or three years
Moving piles of brush
Moving downed trees from lawns and from walking trails
TREES CAN BE CUT INTO MANAGEABLE PIECES BUT NOT STONES.
Regrading grass and dirt trails to deal with impaction, erosion, wet areas, etc
Possibly plowing drives in winter, but the snow amount is dropping fast as things warm.

L2501 can handle above tasks.

A Kubota 'Grand L' L3560 is a little bigger but 3,700 pounds bare tractor weight + 37-horsepower. An L3560 can handle these tasks with a safe margin. Most of your applications call for tractor weight. The exception is mowing, where horsepower is as important as tractor weight. Grand L 'de luxe' models are much easier to grow old with than economy tractors. I am growing old with an L3560 myself.
VIDEO: Kubota Standard L Series VS. Grand L Series - YouTube



To mow 60 acres, even once or twice per year, I would want a 12' wide or 15' wide twin spindle rotary cutter behind a cab equipped tractor with ~~100+ horsepower.

Calculate how much time you are willing to spend mowing 60 acres:

Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour


Kubota L2501

2014 - Standard L Series
Compact Utility tractor
Series next: Kubota L3301/L3901

Manufacturer: Kubota

Kubota L2501 Engine:
Kubota 1.6L 3-cyl diesel
Kubota L2501 Power:
Engine (gross): 24.8 hp [18.5 kW]
Engine (net): 23.9 hp [17.8 kW]
Gear PTO (claimed): 20.5 hp [15.3 kW]
Hydro PTO (claimed): 19 hp [14.2 kW]

Capacity:
Fuel: 10 gal [37.9 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I
Control: position control
Rear lift (at ends): 1918 lbs [870 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1389 lbs [630 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: transmission*
live*
Clutch: overrunning dry disc
Rear RPM: 540 (1.375)

Dimensions:
Wheelbase: 63.3 inches [160 cm]
Weight: 2425 to 2623 pounds

Kubota L2501 attachments:
Loader type: Kubota LA525
Height (to pin): 94.3 inches [239 cm]
Lift to full height (at pin): 1131 lbs [513 kg]
Lift to 1.5m (at pin): 1490 lbs [675 kg]
Lift to 1.5m (at 500mm): 1182 lbs [536 kg]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x2 2WD*
4x4 MFWD 4WD
Steering: power
Brakes: mechanical wet disc
Cab: Two-post folding ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Pressure: 2205 psi [152.0 bar]
Pump flow: 5.15 gpm [19.5 lpm]
Steering flow: 3.13 gpm [11.8 lpm]

Electrical:
Ground: negative
Charging system: alternator
Charging amps: 40
Charging volts: 12

Battery:
Number: 1
Cold-cranking amps: 490
Volts: 12

Page information:
Last update: January 2, 2019
Copyright: Copyright 2019 TractorData LLC
Contact: Peter@TractorData.com

 

[GimmeShelter]

I’m of the philosophy that the greater the power, the more utility you can receive from the machine. My recommendation would be to go with the largest you can afford, transport, and fit into tight areas around the tract. Do you already have implements?

Equipment is a big ticket item that can sink a ship. Ensure that you are cognizant of the storage, maintenance, and repair burdens of owning equipment.

I’m sure specific recommendations can be applied to your brand preference by experienced users.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Don't get stuck on tractors.

I thought like you that a tractor was the way to go but after I sold my tractor. Because it was underpowered to do the things I needed I looked at a skid steer.
I never plowed fields with my tractor I mainly needed for things like you said. Clearing, lifting, etc.

I went with a CAT 289 and it was amazing. With my tractor using the grappler by the time I put the heavy grappler on I wasn't able to lift any debris. With the skid steer, I was able to lift as much as I could crush in the grappler.

Because I was able to change attachments from inside the cab, I would often switch several attachments in a day. From the bucket to the grappler, to the lifting arm, the large turkey litter bucket, the tree spade, rock bucket, forks, road grader attachment, and yes I even had a backhoe attachment made by CAT.

Since I never needed any three-point hitch attachments it was perfect. Being a track loader I was able to spin on a dime when I got in tights spots, unlike the tractor.

All in all, it was the Victorinox of tractors for me. With the grapple, I was able to grab large rocks and place them wherever I wanted.

Anyway give it a thought and take like a Kubota track skid steer for a test ride.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Welcome to TBN. If you need to stay at 5' wide to maintain the forest trails, I would looks at a Kubota L series like the L3901. Higher HP so you can mow with a bigger mower, good weight for stability and pulling power and still under 5' width. I would also consider other brands like Kioti or LS if you have local dealer support. I would look in the 35 hp range.

 

[airbiscuit]

Are the areas you mow and the trails flat or hilly? Do you have any brand preferences? Can you post any pics of the property?

 

[jeff9366]

Are the areas you mow and the trails flat or hilly? Do you have any brand preferences?

I expect we'll get a Kubota again.

 

[jeff9366]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Neophyte tractor operators are often intimidated by instability of tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels, therefore frequently purchase tractors too light, too small for long term satisfaction. ((Tractors seem to shrink after about twenty hours of operating experience.))

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

 

[airbiscuit]

I would go to the Kubota Dealer and test drive:

L3901 $28,111 w/ SSQA Loader & R14 Tires
Grand L4060 $34,197 w/ SSQA Loader & R4 Tires

My neighbor has a L3901 and it is quite capable, but seems narrow to me. If you have hills, it would make me uneasy. The grand L4060 is wider, heavier, larger tires, and has much nicer creature comforts. Theoretically, they are similar tractors (horsepower) but the closer you look, the more pronounced the differences seem.

This would be a good starting point to just get a "feel" for things.

 

[redman135]

Hello Dakota Joe, in no particular order.
1) If you are going to be moving rocks, get a 3rd service added at purchase time as a retrofit is pricey. Also recommend you get 2 or 3 scv outlets for the rear of the tractor for the same reason, it is good future proofing.
2) At your level of inexperience you will be looking to the dealer for advice. How close are they? Friendly to deal with?
3)If you get a cab then be prepared to prune low branches on the trails to save your cab windows/mirrors.
4) As your skills increace you ALWAYS get mission creep.
5)If you use a contractor to brushhog the 60 acres of medow what effect does this have on your tractor requirements?

 

[cowski]

john deere 5210 with mfd used

 

[Notforhire]

"On the one hand, I'd like it not to tear up or compact the trails too bad given how things can be more damp here now, and I'd like it to work in the forest trails (through which the Kubota L2350 just fits with a 5 foot bush hog).

On the other hand, I only want to buy one tractor and to have it be sufficiently powered and not to have any regrets. "

If I had 60ac to bush hog I would want a 8ft or larger, mower. You can cut 60ac with a 5ft mower, but it may take awhile.
If I was going to grapple brush, move fallen trees and rocks I would want a FEL/tractor combination that would lift close to a ton. (Figure a grapple itself @ 800lbs)
Light weight narrow tractors are outright scary lifting anything on slopes IMO.

I don't think you can cover all these chores with one tractor.
I would think about keeping the L2350 and adding a full size utility tractor, not a CUT.

 

[oosik]

I have 80 acres and a mile long gravel driveway. My land is mainly rolling grass lands with many stands of ancient Ponderosa pines. I have no other tree type on my land. I bought a brand new Ford 1700 4WD in 1982. It weighed around 2500 pounds. It worked, just fine, until 2009 when all the smaller project had been completed.

I traded the Ford in for a brand new 2009 Kubota M6040. This gave me the needed weight and power to take on bigger jobs. My M6040 with rear blade, grapple and Rim Guard loaded rear tires weighs - 10,010 pounds.

Other than the initial cost of the M6040 - upgrading my implements has been rather expensive also. The cost difference between a Class 1 implement vs a Class 2 implement is substantial.

The implements I have - FEL, bucket, grapple, rear blade, land plane grading scraper, disk harrow, rollover box blade, single bottom moldboard plow, chipper.

Most everything on my property can be mowed with my JD G100 mid-mount mower. However - I only mow about two acres of lawn - directly around the house. I will, on occasion, mow, - buck brush, wild multiflora rose bushes and an acre or so of field grass.

From your list of tasks - which task will take the longest to complete. How long do you want to spend doing this task. Can this task be broken into small units to be completed over time.

I think that NotForHire has a valid point. Your list indicates the need for both a smaller & a larger tractor. Keep what you have and consider either a large L-class or 50 to 70 hp M-class Kubota. If you will be mowing with a brush hog - a cabbed tractor is almost a must have.

If you find that all the jobs can be completed with the larger Kubota - then sell the smaller tractor.

Chances are - you are going to find quite a few added tasks that are not on your list and that you will want to take on.

I certainly did - one of the reason for the M6040.

 

[3Ts]

To mow 60 acres, even once or twice per year, I would want a 12' wide or 15' wide twin spindle rotary cutter behind a cab equipped tractor with ~~100+ horsepower.

Mowing 60 acres will require a big mower and lots of HP to turn it. All the other applications you mention can be done with something around 30-35 HP. Why do you want to mow the 60 acres? Why not contract with a local farmer to do the mowing &/or lease it for hay and let someone else provide the big equipment. Grass is one of the most difficult things to cut (believe it or not).

You'll need a grapple for brush, so get the 3rd function on the loader. And I agree with @notforhire on the lift capacity and general size of tractor being a full size utility tractor.

You're going to end up with more than 1 tractor to handle these different chores.

 

[dodge man]

You have two needs that conflict with each other. The trails that the Kubota barely fits down and mowing 60 acres. Like already pointed out I’d let someone else keep mowing the 60 acres for you. I’d look at a B series or a L series if you want Kubota depending on what will fit down your trails. I’d also skip the turf tires and go with R4(industrial) tires.

 

[Milo]

About 50 acres of meadows, 15 acres of scrub/border land, 60 acres of forest, 10 acres for houses, 30 acres runs up the mountain to the Trail and is too steep for a tractor.

I have a similar sized property only more woods but just around 15 acres of meadows that get mowed down once in the Fall which my L2501 does just fine with a 60 flail mower. I generally do it over 3 part days. But if I needed to mow 50 acres of meadow, and possibly the 15 acres of border land, I'd want at least an L3901 (same tractor only more power) to run a wider rotary cutter or flail. As others have mentioned this much mowing will be a lot of work for a small L tractor. But a small L might be perfect for everything else you need to do w/o being to big, heavy, and expensive. I think their advice to get someone else to mow the 50-60 acres makes the most sense, but if you can't or don't want to have someone else do this I would get something like a Kubota MX.

 

[Notforhire]

But if I needed to mow 50 acres of meadow, and possibly the 15 acres of border land, I'd want at least an L3901 (same tractor only more power) to run a wider rotary cutter or flail. As others have mentioned this much mowing will be a lot of work for a small L tractor. But a small L might be perfect for everything else you need to do w/o being to big, heavy, and expensive. I think their advice to get someone else to mow the 50-60 acres makes the most sense, but if you can't or don't want to have someone else do this I would get something like a Kubota MX.

When it comes to mowing, sticking with a L size tractor doesn't gain you much, no matter the HP.
The problem is mower weight.

My L47 is spec. for a max. cutter dia of 6 ft, with a max weight of 926 lbs. My Bushhog 286 actually weighs 962 lbs which is a little heavier than the recommendation. The 3 PH lift cap is 3860 lbs.

A 287 (7 footer) weighs 1127 lbs and has a 50 HP min. requirement.
8 ft cutters run 2000+ lbs

A MX has a lift capacity of around 2310 according to the brochure.

I don't know, but I suspect that Kubota doesn't recommend a 7ft or 8 ft cutter on a MX.

Remember the weight is way out there with a bush hog, not close to the pins.


So the bottom line is with a larger L or MX you move from a 5 ft to a 6 ft cutter, hardly worthwhile when cutting 50 acres.


Since I was young I've dreamed about my perfect vehicle.

It's the combination Sports Car / Dump Truck!

It drives like a Corvette and can carry 22 tons of crushed stone, all while getting 30 mpg on regular gas.

I keep looking, but I think the odds of me finding one are about the same as the OP finding one tractor that will do everything he wants.

 

[Milo]

I was thinking something such as this 8' dual spindle brush cutter/mower on an MX. RCF3696 Series Rotary Cutters | Land Pride