Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

   / Rear hydraulic remote . #141  
That’s not been my experience at all on the larger tractors.
 
Last edited:
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#142  
Ok sounds good but will probably have to print it out , laminate it and stick it somewhere convenient. lol . Will let you know what happens next. Thanks for your help.

Just a quick update. I have tried all that’s been suggested but the problem still exists. The top link moves in and out but maybe not as much as when I started but nevertheless it moves quite a lot. I have persevered on the occasions that I have used the rake and this is the lightest implement so I can only assume that it will perform worse with the the heavier box blade etc. With this in mind and reading all the posts I think I will revert back to the old screw top link. It sounds like it is likely to be an expensive fix not to mention the time lost, and as I don’t use the tractor on a very regular basis ( which is why it’s taken so long for this update ) I have to ask the question— is it worth it ? Thanks to all who have tried to help but I have come to the conclusion that it seems to be a regular hydraulic problem, I only wish I had known this beforehand.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #143  
I hate to hear you are giving up on the cylinder but I certainly understand. Something very unique is going on with your system and it very well may not be worth the trouble.

I love the convenience of my top and tilt setup but have never experienced the issues you are seeing. I personally would love to understand what is going on with your system but as CB has already told me I could be making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Anyway, thank you for the update.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #144  
I originally put on top and tilt cylinders with no check valves
The top link cylinder would move in/out when under load and was basically useless for grading with the box blade (wouldn't stay where I put it.)
Also the tilt cylinder would constantly drift off and needed constantly pulled back up.
I got rid of the top and tilt cylinder after about a year and replaced them both with cylinders with the double piloted check valves.
Never a problem since. They stay where I put them and work great for the past 17-18 years they have been on there.
Check valves solved my problem.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #145  
I originally put on top and tilt cylinders with no check valves
The top link cylinder would move in/out when under load and was basically useless for grading with the box blade (wouldn't stay where I put it.)
Also the tilt cylinder would constantly drift off and needed constantly pulled back up.
I got rid of the top and tilt cylinder after about a year and replaced them both with cylinders with the double piloted check valves.
Never a problem since. They stay where I put them and work great for the past 17-18 years they have been on there.
Check valves solved my problem.

Good information. No difference in speed of travel or ability to fine tune?
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #146  
Good information. No difference in speed of travel or ability to fine tune?

No. Just as fast and smooth as the cylinders I had without check valves.
Only difference I noticed is they stay where I put them.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #147  
No. Just as fast and smooth as the cylinders I had without check valves.
Only difference I noticed is they stay where I put them.

Excellent information.
 

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