What do i need to sharpen bsh hog blade?

CMV · Apr 30, 2020

Bush Hog BH 6. My impact driver is a smaller 3/8 one about the size of a cordless drill so I'm sure that isn't up to the task. Does anyone know what size/spec impact driver, socket size, or anything else I'll want to have on hand to do this? It's a remote site so don't want to make extra trip since i didn't think to bring X with me.

If i remember right from when it was new, 'sharpen' isn't right term. It was much more blunt that a typical mover blade new. So I just take an angle grinder to it & get the dings out - I'm not looking for any type of knife edge correct?

Looking4new · Apr 30, 2020

CMV said:
Bush Hog BH 6. My impact driver is a smaller 3/8 one about the size of a cordless drill so I'm sure that isn't up to the task. Does anyone know what size/spec impact driver, socket size, or anything else I'll want to have on hand to do this? It's a remote site so don't want to make extra trip since i didn't think to bring X with me.

If i remember right from when it was new, 'sharpen' isn't right term. It was much more blunt that a typical mover blade new. So I just take an angle grinder to it & get the dings out - I'm not looking for any type of knife edge correct?

It is better if you CANNOT shave with it. Your 1/4" impact isn't up to the job, but a 1/2" impact will do the deed. Almost guaranteed.

AWSubie · Apr 30, 2020

You don’t need an impact driver. I always use a half inch breaker bar and about 3 foot pipe extension.

the old grind · Apr 30, 2020

The nicks aren't so bad. Don't try to remove them, too much stock to remove. On mower blades we sharpen to a 1/32" flat (.030"). On a BH blade 1/16" (.060") is darn sharp.

btw, if anyone ever considers hard-facing a blade's cutting edge be sure it's done neatly or you may give up on sharpening it long before you grind an 'edge' on the bead.

btw, Chris, did you get that Howa to shoot OK? Getting the seating depth right first beats trying 'X' powders before knowing what the throat prefers for each pill.

(You new that. Others might not have heard yet.

)

CMV · Apr 30, 2020

I got it to about an inch & a half, but not the cloverleaf I'm still chasing

Your stuff helped a LOT!

i7win7 · Apr 30, 2020

Amazon.com : torque multiplier

these maybe a wish list shop item for problem fasteners

the old grind · Apr 30, 2020

I use the blue wrench on a lot of chassis and powertrain stuff. The typical three ears holding a car's front wheel bearing cartridge to the knuckle are a common use to remove the bolts w/o snapping them off. I don't have to keep them hot to remove, they come out easily once they've been red. Monte Carlo (2R, 1L) and Jeep Wrangler (L) were my latest. ('17-'19)

Blades may mount by std or by shoulder bolts. Don't ever replace with SS hoping to dodge rust, they won't last. If you can get a jam nut on threads protruding through the flange, grease threads, tighten well, and remember they're there if you'll r&r the blades again someday.

(See below

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RalphVa · Apr 30, 2020

Guess I'm confused whether you're talking about removing the blades and/or sharpening them.

I remove mine with a 3/4" socket driver with a 6 ft piece of pipe that slides over it. Retorque it the same way: more or less give it all I have to tighten.

You do not "sharpen" the blades. You take the big lumps caused by gouges in the blade and smooth them out quite a bit on one side and a little bit on the other side. I grind mine on a bench grinder, keeping track of the # of times I pass the entire length of the cut edge so as to try to keep it near the same weight as the other other. It won't be anywhere near sharp, but it'll cut grass. I don't see how you could keep them in place to use a hand-held grinder on a drill.

Ralph

3gunr · Apr 30, 2020

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.