New garage time!

fatjay · Apr 29, 2020

747driver said:
All looks nice and straight..nice job !! Yes, laying block will make you a old man quickly. I have a Lowes mixer i use for big jobs like this. Is there any reason you didn't put re-bar in the footer sticking up to reinforce the blocks ? Keep up the good work !

With the blocks on the footer, tied to the 6" slab, tied to the 3 course of block on top, I don't think it will go anywhere. And I am considering changing the first 12' floor to be all block walls, then the top be 2x8's, with a 2x3 eve on front and side. That way I can put recessed lights in. That will also transition from the lower stucco to the upper siding.

747driver · Apr 30, 2020

dragoneggs said:
On the topic of YouTube craftsman, I have been following and learning from 'Next Level Carpentry'. This guy explains things well and is also a perfectionist. Great tips on cabinetry and keeping everything true and square and how to be efficient with repetition in his small and modest shop. He is not a tool ***** either which is refreshing.

Thanks for the info. Will have to check this channel out.....!!

747driver · Apr 30, 2020

Had to stop and visualize what you are doing ! I would go with the 2x8 walls. Easier to finish and insulate the interior walls. If you go with block then it might be more of a pain to insulate the walls ? I really like using engineered floor joist, as they eliminate the need for that dreaded center post ! Have a fun day !!!

fatjay · Apr 30, 2020

747driver said:
Had to stop and visualize what you are doing ! I would go with the 2x8 walls. Easier to finish and insulate the interior walls. If you go with block then it might be more of a pain to insulate the walls ? I really like using engineered floor joist, as they eliminate the need for that dreaded center post ! Have a fun day !!!

It's 12" block up to the floor, then 8" block above floor level. I'm looking forward to 8" block, moving those 12" blocks is getting old fast. There will be no center post, I'm looking at I joists with LVL's.

EddieWalker · May 1, 2020

I've never used 12 inch blocks, just 8 inch ones.

Will you fill them with concrete when the wall is built?

fatjay · May 1, 2020

EddieWalker said:
I've never used 12 inch blocks, just 8 inch ones.

Will you fill them with concrete when the wall is built?

Yes, along with drilling for rebar into the concrete. Since the building is so tall, it calls for 12" block. Regular 1 story buildings are 8". I also have 2x8's for the walls where normal is 2x4's or 2x6's for insulation.

747driver · May 2, 2020

I assume your concrete floor will come up to where the 12" block' transitions to the 8" block. It should lay on that 4" lip ?

fatjay · May 2, 2020

747driver said:
I assume your concrete floor will come up to where the 12" block' transitions to the 8" block. It should lay on that 4" lip ?

The top of the 12” block is the bottom of the floor, then the floor will come up 6” and held back by the 8” block. The floor will be 4” higher than the highest point.

fatjay · May 2, 2020

3 course all the way around except for the front so i can still get in and out with the bobcat. Next is foam insulation board on the walls, one course of 8's, then stone, then foam insulation board, then steel mesh, then pex tubing, then pour concrete slab. Rebar is in place so i'll get a pallet of concrete to pour down the inside of the block. These days are exhausting.

ovrszd · May 2, 2020

In my area the pex is laid on the pink board and stapled in place. Then rebar is used and set on chairs above the pex.

I'm not sure how the pour crew can step on the pex without pushing the steel mesh down against the pink board where it does no good. Also additionally risking puncturing the pex pushing it against the steel?

Anxious to see the area when it's ready for concrete.

Thanks for the updates and pics!!!