I am having issues with my BX 2370 failing to start. At first I could "rock" the treadle back and forth a few times and the tractor would start. I grease the treadle frequently. I began to suspect one of the safety switches were not working properly, and suspected the neutral safety switch. I found the location (behind the right rear tire), and worked the pedal back and forth to determine how the linkage worked. The "tab" from the linkage is barely making contact with the safety switch plunger. I can depress the plunger and it will start, so the switch is not bad, just out of adjustment. The plunger is not binding or sticking, it seems to move freely. How do I adjust the switch to work properly?
How to adjust HST neutral safety switch on BX 2370?
- Thread starter dlmpsy
- Start date
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George the Beagle
Gold Member
I would disable the switch underneath the seat...I've done it with both BX's I've had. With yours I believe it's a simple unplug. End of problem.
civilian
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How is the HST switch mounted. On my B26TLB, the barrel of the switch is threaded and held in place with 2 lock nuts. I can not picture how my BX2230 HST switch is mounted. Does the switch or the tab have any way to lengthen? Just tried to look at the switch. I can't get a clear view without a mirror or something. Trying to feel, I can't tell. Jon
civilian
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Doesn't disabling the seat switch just allows the driver to get off the seat. It doesn't effect the HST switch in relation to starting. Jon
Tractor Seabee
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If your 2230 is like my 25 the switch is behind the right tire and has a mickey mouse tinnerman clip as a nut on the screws. They wear out and will not hold adjustment. at 300 hours had the first maladjustment, three time later if short order more out of adjustment. I made a piece of flat bar with tapped holes and used SS screws with lock washers. Hasn't filed now with 1500 hours.
Ron
Ron
This is what the switch looks like, I loosened the screws and slid it forward (to the right), tightned the screws again. Thought about using some loctite, or using a ziptie, but needed to cut the grass while I had the chance. The design looks prone to lose adjustment, and I don't like phillips screws. I saw your post Tractor Seabee...seems like a long term solution.
FYI the photo should be rotated clockwise 90 degrees.
FYI the photo should be rotated clockwise 90 degrees.
Tractor Seabee
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Identical to mine. The tinnerman clip on the back side is the culprit. It is a ***** to get to and takes nimble fingers I do not have. I used a piece of 1' X 1/8 flat bar long enough to hold onto it. Tapped for the screws. I used hex socket head cap screws with lock washers and Loctite. End of problem. The Dealer shop solution was to replace the tinnerman clip. Decided $125/hr plus my day lost transporting was a non starter. If I had the time I would pull the wheel and get a picture; but , I thikn you get the idea, just think it through. It was a 2 hr job including getting the screws. The flat bar I had.
LOL, Ron
You came up with a good solution. I thought about "improving" the factory design as well, but imagined myself dropping a screw or clip and being stuck until I went by the dealer, or searching for the lost part. It is in a tight spot and like yourself... the fingers don't behave like they use too!