Hydraulic filter change

[LouNY]

When I unscrew the filter on mine it is a 1 inch or 1 1/4 threaded opening it will dump 7 to 10 gallons faster then you can thread one off and a new one on.
I just change the oil it is cheap compared to a pump and we use used oil for coating equipment and heating so it's not a waste.

 

[Texasmark]

Folks need to keep in mind that OEM fluid change recommendations are Wild Arsed Guesses for world wide operating conditions with world wide operators, with world wide environments. With that said, and considering just puking money and wasting natural resources and increasing recycling/disposal nuisances, one just might change the filter and not change the entire sump.

Not knowing what to expect....you are usually opening a drain plug of sorts on the main sump, when I do that I get a catch pan ready with rags/paper towels, the new filter, and the filter wrench, and a comfortable position (if that's possible) under the tractor. Once the old filter is loose enough to turn by hand, I spin it as fast as I can and drop it into the pan, filling with oil, and stab the new filter....usually just stabbing it ebbs most of the fluid flow and it just takes a few seconds to spin the new filter on. Doubt my wasted fluid is even a quart.

 

[FastEddieR]

I changed the fluid too on the first point @200hrs. My theory is that the same as engine oil, whatever little pieces of stuff that were in the system from machining and the first scrapes from wear and tear inside should be removed. Yes, the filter and magnetic plug bolts should catch it all but fluid is relatively cheap.

 

[s219]

I changed the fluid too on the first point @200hrs. My theory is that the same as engine oil, whatever little pieces of stuff that were in the system from machining and the first scrapes from wear and tear inside should be removed. Yes, the filter and magnetic plug bolts should catch it all but fluid is relatively cheap.

That's where the thinking goes wrong, it's not nearly the same as engine oil. There is no contamination from combustion, nor the thermal load, nor the potential interaction with air, fuel, coolant, contaminants. It's a completely different situation.

For the best guidance, look at longstanding practices with construction equipment. Some of them use dozens of gallons of hydraulic fluid and you just don't change that out on a lark. They always have a very long interval for hydraulic fluid. Most of our tractors live an easy life in comparison.

If someone is heell-bent on getting metal out, I'd suggest draining the fluid into clean buckets ($3 per bucket at TSC, get the white ones). Let it settle for a couple hours, then pour back into the tractor through a coned filter inside a funnel (disposable paint sprayer filters are ideal for this and cheap). If there is crud in the bottom of the bucket, hold that back.

Having done a few repairs on hydraulic systems and tractors, I rarely see more than a trace of gray slick on the bottom of the barrel. I feel like big chips, or anything that moves, is going to get caught by the filter or magnet. And much of it is inconsequential to a hydraulic system (another way it's different from an engine).

Anyway, the point is, do not think the same way you think about engine oil.

 

[FastEddieR]

That's where the thinking goes wrong, it's not nearly the same as engine oil. There is no contamination from combustion, nor the thermal load, nor the potential interaction with air, fuel, coolant, contaminants. It's a completely different situation.
...
Having done a few repairs on hydraulic systems and tractors, I rarely see more than a trace of gray slick on the bottom of the barrel. I feel like big chips, or anything that moves, is going to get caught by the filter or magnet. And much of it is inconsequential to a hydraulic system (another way it's different from an engine).

Anyway, the point is, do not think the same way you think about engine oil.

I'm by no means an expert on hydraulic fluid, what you say makes complete sense especially since its a closed system.
But how about with a hydrostatic transmission? Is there not a thermal load involved? It seems to me that it can get pretty warm? Enough to cause changes after time?

 

[Captain Dirty]

OP's original problem was changing the filters only and worries of dumping (wasting) considerable volume of fluid in the process. Those of us who reported being slow or sloppy outnumber those claiming to be fast and neat by about 5 to 2. I successfully used a shop vac to hold fluid during a filter only change on my second attempt. Even at 5 to 3, ericm979's concerns appear well founded.

I'm by no means an expert on hydraulic fluid, what you say makes complete sense especially since its a closed system.
But how about with a hydrostatic transmission? Is there not a thermal load involved? It seems to me that it can get pretty warm? Enough to cause changes after time?

When scheduled change of the hydraulic fluid is nearly due, one can send a sample of the old fluid for analysis. Blackstone Labs charges about $30.00 for the analysis which is short money compared to the cost of fluid that may actually not be needed.

 

[Texasmark]

If you are really worried about metal, and metal that could be less than the 20ish micron rating of the filter, get yourself a magnet and put it on the bottom of your fluid sump. Outboard engines, to name a type, usually have a magnet as part of their lower unit drain plug. On it you will find chips of metal if you have a problem but otherwise a light black film of microscopic metal. While you are at it, if so worried, put one on your engine oil pan too.

I'm 78, been running my own engines since a teenager, cars, trucks, OTR trucks, boats, tractors and equipment, large and small, on this farm for some 42 years. I use a common sense approach to my maintenance schedules and have yet to loose an engine, much less have any that are dogs. My stuff works. I have one slight smoker, a 1963 Ford 2000 diesel with about 4000 hrs, 3000 of which the previous owners installed. Seems a lot of it is just an old injection pump and injectors since both are OEM originals. It smokes a bit but doesn't burn oil. I figure worn valve guides for the engine proper contribution but no big deal and surely not worth doing something about it. When it will start year around in N. Texas in less than 15 seconds, with no starting aids, the compression system must be up to snuff...has to be....and that's what does the work.

 

[mg6425]

The shop vac method works fine. Just make sure the connection and shop vac are reliable. I would recommend someone to help maintain connections. Shop Vac, funnel, duct tape. Didn't lose a drop.

 

[Cougsfan]

Rationalizing changing oil when you don't need to by saying it goes to recycling is a bit phony. It is part of the "feel good" mentality we have developed in our country concerning recycling that is based on not knowing what really happens to our waste products. Sure, recycling oil is better than dumping it on the ground, but is not anywhere near as good as not changing the oil at all. Most of the recycled oil is burned as a low quality fuel and contributes to CO2 emissions and other atmospheric pollution. That oil that is recycled into lubricants and other uses goes though an energy extensive process that is far more costly and wasteful than processing crude for the same uses.

Don't get me wrong, I am not against recycling oil. That is exactly what we should do with oil that will no longer be used. But to environmentally justify the changing of oil that doesn't need to be changed by the fact the used oil is recycled through our recycling systems is just plain faulty thinking.

 

[Aquamoose]

The idea about recycling (keeping) hydraulic fluid is new to me as I’ve never heard about that. My tractor is due for service soon and now I’m wondering. Is there any official links / data that this is commonly done to recycle hydraulic fluids?