Buying Advice YM240D. Good deal?

[dchad]

Wow, that's an impressive modification. Did you have to change the axle and hubs?
Looks like you have a quick connect with a tow bar across it, yes? How do you keep the tow bar from spinning? I've seen the little attachments at TSC, but those won't fit a quick connect.

 

[California]

Wow, that's an impressive modification. Did you have to change the axle and hubs?
Looks like you have a quick connect with a tow bar across it, yes? How do you keep the tow bar from spinning? I've seen the little attachments at TSC, but those won't fit a quick connect.

You're asking about my watering trailer? It's not modified aside from those 12 inch car tires, off a Chevelle or something that had 4-bolt lugs. (wider than 5.00x12 trailer tires). The trailer was a well-used $25 Craigslist find. Photo.

2600 lbs loaded is grossly over the spec capacity of a half ton but I don't need highway-grade safety margin. if something ever fails, just drain the water and drag it back to the welder in the barn. Actually I did bend something: backing up uphill in very soft ground with the 8" tires half buried, the tongue bent. I straightened it and welded on a piece of bedframe angle iron to stiffen it.
.

As for stabilizing the drawbar in the qhitch I welded adapter sleeves to (removable) small plates then bolted both ends of the plate to the drawbar. My 10 years use hasn't bent the plates - but higher hp would.

 

[dchad]

Adapter sleeves??

Could I see what the other side of your qattach looks like?

BTW, One more vote for easy to work on. For some reason my 1700 got stuck in one gear, and I couldn't shift it, or find neutral. Looked at the parts breakdown on the hoyes site, and decided to look into the tranny. Some how the shifter had slipped through the "clogs" on the shift forks and was outside of all of them. I pulled it apart, lined up the shift forks to neutral, and it was pretty simple to tell where they lined up on the gears. Put it all back and it shifts like new.

Going to take your suggestion and drain and flush my radiator. Without a temp gauge I want to make sure I've got clean fluid at the right mixture to operate properly. I was thinking of making it a 35/65 mix. It gets pretty cold here in the winter. Think that mix would have any adverse affect on operation?

The rain has finally stopped here, but we're all flooded out. I'll get you some photos when we're dried up a bit.



Thanks again for all your help.

 

[dchad]

Good evening,

Can anyone tell me what size socket/wrench I need for the #24 bolt in this spec?

Thank you

 

[dchad]

Well it doesn't appear I could attach the drawing. I think it's called a banjo bolt.

On the YM1700, it's the bolt that attaches the pressure hydraulic line to the three point, or at least to the top of the casing.

Thank you,

 

[California]

Adapter sleeves?? Could I see what the other side of your qattach looks like?


View attachment 655820

There's not much to look at. That little plate in my photo is bolted to the hole at the end of the drawbar and to the first larger hole. I have an early HF QH that needs Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings on the implement to fit the hooks in the QH. So I mounted the drawbar using those bushings, bolted the plates, and tack-welded the visible part of the bushing to the plate. Then I carried the bushing/plate assemblies into the shop and welded beads down the front and back of the bushing/plate joint. These weld beads bearing against the front and back of the QH's hooks bear the twisting stress and stiffen the plates.

The sleeves aren't welded to the drawbar so my adapters can be unbolted and removed, but I never have.

I think later QH's come with larger OD bushings for your implements so use a pair of those to make these anti-twist gadgets.

I'm back in town now after a week out at the ranch (orchard) or I would take a better photo. That's the only photo I have that shows my anti-twist adapters. I've used these since 2009 and they haven't bent.

 

[dchad]

There's not much to look at. That little plate in my photo is bolted to the hole at the end of the drawbar and to the first larger hole. I have an early HF QH that needs Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings on the implement to fit the hooks in the QH. So I mounted the drawbar using those bushings, bolted the plates, and tack-welded the visible part of the bushing to the plate. Then I carried the bushing/plate assemblies into the shop and welded beads down the front and back of the bushing/plate joint. These weld beads bearing against the front and back of the QH's hooks bear the twisting stress and stiffen the plates.

The sleeves aren't welded to the drawbar so my adapters can be unbolted and removed, but I never have.

I think later QH's come with larger OD bushings for your implements so use a pair of those to make these anti-twist gadgets.

I'm back in town now after a week out at the ranch (orchard) or I would take a better photo. That's the only photo I have that shows my anti-twist adapters. I've used these since 2009 and they haven't bent.

Ah, I got it. I wasn稚 really familiar with cat1 to cat2 bushings but that makes since. For once, no additional photos needed. Haha.

Thanks again for tip.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have removed mine lots swapping the lift valve. If I remember right, which I put little faith in I'm thinking 24? It's in my larger metric set from harbor freight though

 

[dchad]

Hey Clemson,

Thanks for the guess, haha. My metric sockets ended with 21, and I thought I might just buy a single socket to fit the bolt, but was in town today, and bought a larger set of mm sockets from NT. Harbor freight is a long way from me.

A man can never have too many tools. It's probably time my metric stuff caught up to my SAE.

Why are you swapping lift valves? Failure?

 

[clemsonfor]

Long story. I have a post on it. I forget the thread title. Search my name on posts I have started.

But the gist of it is, my original exploded internally while I was disking foodplots. Ordered the replacement from Hoye. The first one the bolt holes were machined off. I could only get three bolts in it. The o ring blew out cause of the uneven pressure from three bolts. He sent a replacement, it too was bad, was bypassing internally is all I can assume. Aaron made it right. I swapped out with a used original one he had (he didn't have it when I first ordered). To Aaron's defense he said I was literally the only one that had issues with these. No hard feelings with me though. Aaron made it right with me, and gave me the best customer service one could ask for and I still buy my parts from them. I am in no way bashing Hoye, I want to make that clear.