Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[Industrial Toys]

A third of a million users on here, no one with a welder nearby that can help?

I'm guessing , if the OP doesn't have a welder, he doesn't have a "REAL" torch either. Why would he?

 

[Richard]

If the third picture is a photo of the bolt head that got twisted off, then it's the funniest looking bolt I've ever seen. Looks to me like a piece of all-thread with a jam nut spun down a few threads to lock it in place.

Anyhoo, you are going to need lots of heat and a set of left hand drill bits.

No, that is the assembly that holds the OTHER end on. It (evidently) consists of a short, what I will call, threaded rod ONLY. The pin goes into hole to hold the cylinder in place, then this "set screw" screws in from the side (as per the early pictures) and goes into the pocket that you see on the pin. Then you use the jam nut to lock it on the structure.

I don't care how this looks..... machine is from 1987 and visually, beat to snot (though it runs like a swiss watch).

Notice the grease zerk. I've owned this thing for probably close to 20 years now. I can guarantee you that has never been greased in 20 years. Notice how, if you swing the cylinder out, the zerk hides away to the INSIDE. I never even knew this existed. Another reason I have to get this off (slightly bent rod is first reason) but, I want to get the zerk to the outside so it can be greased.... at least once every 5 years!!

 

[Industrial Toys]

Without those tools mentioned, sharp professional drill bits would be your best friend. Working with poor quality or dull drill bits can be worse than the task at hand! I found that if you could drill straight through, then it's a great way to get heat in there, IF only with a proane torch..

 

[Richard]

A third of a million users on here, no one with a welder nearby that can help?

I'm guessing , if the OP doesn't have a welder, he doesn't have a "REAL" torch either. Why would he?

None that I'm aware of.....but I'm working on that. This is why I might just buy one myself. I haven't had much use for a welder (ever)... and the 2-3 times I HAVE had need, I was able to get it done. (primarily my brother in law brought his up while visiting from New Orleans)

I don't have a shop, no room for a shop, garage is already full... I'm not even sure how large a 220 circuit I can get in my garage. I have a 8-3 (I think it's 8-3, it could possibly be 6?) taking current from my main panel to my subpanel in the garage. It sits on a 50 amp circuit on the main panel if I recall.

Was looking at some stick welders and they say to put it on a 50 amp circuit.

Hmmmm.....

Can I put a 50 amp breaker in the garage that rides off a 50 amp breaker on my main box AND this garage box has a couple other things on it? (some lights & stereo that are in basement and likely wouldn't be in use during day if I'm outside welding something)

Still.... I have that situation to try to figure out. Don't want to get something that's too big for my setup. There's ZERO way I'm going to get a 50 amp dedicated circuit from the main panel to the garage through the finished basement (opposite sides of house with tile floors and drywall between)

 

[Richard]

Maybe I'll just buy a new backhoe!!

That will fix all these problems AND would probably have fresh grease in all the zerks!!!

 

[radios1]

None that I'm aware of.....but I'm working on that. This is why I might just buy one myself. I haven't had much use for a welder (ever)... and the 2-3 times I HAVE had need, I was able to get it done. (primarily my brother in law brought his up while visiting from New Orleans)

I don't have a shop, no room for a shop, garage is already full... I'm not even sure how large a 220 circuit I can get in my garage. I have a 8-3 (I think it's 8-3, it could possibly be 6?) taking current from my main panel to my subpanel in the garage. It sits on a 50 amp circuit on the main panel if I recall.

Was looking at some stick welders and they say to put it on a 50 amp circuit.

Hmmmm.....

Can I put a 50 amp breaker in the garage that rides off a 50 amp breaker on my main box AND this garage box has a couple other things on it? (some lights & stereo that are in basement and likely wouldn't be in use during day if I'm outside welding something)

Still.... I have that situation to try to figure out. Don't want to get something that's too big for my setup. There's ZERO way I'm going to get a 50 amp dedicated circuit from the main panel to the garage through the finished basement (opposite sides of house with tile floors and drywall between)

the problem is, you don't want the lighting to go out if the 50 amp breaker trips, it's very dangerous to be doing something that could hurt you, and then have the lights go out!.

 

[Richard]

the problem is, you don't want the lighting to go out if the 50 amp breaker trips, it's very dangerous to be doing something that could hurt you, and then have the lights go out!.

That wouldn't be an issue....(lights going out) They'd be inside.....I'd be outside.

Though I still get that you don't want to trip any breaker needlessly.

 

[mcfarmall]

then this "set screw" screws in from the side (as per the early pictures) and goes into the pocket that you see on the pin

Right on...I'm stackin' the wood you're cutting.

I think you're right...someone had the cylinder off once upon a time and they put it back together wrong (grease fitting inaccessible).


Yup, that's a set screw. Makes the job a whole lot easier as it's not threaded into the pin but simply sits in a dimple. This means you only have to drill a short distance to get to the dimple and yes, if it is a true setscrew then it's a Grade 5 or 8 equivalent. If it's all-thread then Grade 2.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ok, so again, I don't have a welder nor easy access. I've got a couple things that could use to be welded so am contemplating on buying one more for kicks & grins and "to have the right tool when needed" verses becoming a world class bridge builder.

So, my question there would be....

Stick or Mig? I think some do both but you can get those basic stick boxes for less.


Let me ask the question differently..... for THIS application, which would be best?

One thing I don't want to do is be that idiot that welds his nut to his backhoe.

I'm not sure that sounded exactly the way I meant it but I think you know what I mean.

Stick, MIG does not like oil/grease/ and dirt. If you do not get good penetration of the weld it will just twist off.

Ron

 

[TractorGuy]

Your idea to cut a slot in it and try an impact driver might work. The problem with trying that is if it doesn't work it may become difficult to get a flat spot to center punch it for drilling.

Personally I would grind it just enough to get it flat, center punch as near center as I could get, then drill a hole all the way to the shaft. After that, work the outside with a hammer and chisel. If it doesn't come loose then keep going up on drill size until you almost hit threads. Getting dead center and drilling all the way through the bolt is key to success whether you tap it out with a chisel or pull it with an extractor.