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   / New garage time! #261  
Yes, very good pic Jon.

This clearly shows how much space sweep elbows require.

Is that a 5" pour? Hard to tell in a pic.

Good example of a very tidy setup!!!

Thanks. Yes 5" pour. When the contractor called for inspection, inspector said you are good to go based on seeing his prior work. And yes I have many pictures of that floor. Jon
 
   / New garage time! #262  
Been in the flatwork business for 21 years. I bought my first power screed 19 years ago and it's been 18 since I got rid of it.
 
   / New garage time! #263  
^ understandable logic, but what perspective were you really trying to help him gain here? You definitely want to pressurize your PEX during the pour. You *might* get lucky and see some bubbling up through wet concrete if you did get a leak. You could then box that area out, finish the pour, and do a local pex and concrete repair afterwards.

But more than likely, you will not get a leak. It feels darn good to get through the pour and finishing work, and see full pressure on your gauge still. In my township, it was actually a code and permit requirement to keep the PEX pressurized during the pour.

If you are talking to me, I wasn't trying to help him gain any perspective. I was simply offering logic.

In this particular case the pex is in the top 2" of the pour. It's impossible to see a bubble, then box it out, and fix later. Impossible.

My point is/was if you detect a leak because you have pressurized what can you do about it? In the end, nothing. You don't have time.

I'm not opposed to pressurizing. If it is code, which I have no idea why, go for it. If it "seems" like the right thing to do, go for it.
 
   / New garage time! #264  
Been in the flatwork business for 21 years. I bought my first power screed 19 years ago and it's been 18 since I got rid of it.

Can you offer tips, hints on what the OP should do here? Thanks.
 
   / New garage time! #265  
From here:
How to install PEX Tubing in a concrete slab

pexuniverse said:
Types of concrete slabs with radiant floor heating
Thick slabs
Thick slabs are concrete slabs with an overall thickness of 4-6" or greater and can be either grade level (slab on grade) or below grade (i.e. basement foundations). All thick slabs can be categorized into:
Reinforced slabs – where welded wire mesh or rebar is used to reinforce the slab.
Non-reinforced slabs – where no reinforcement is added.

While reinforcement itself does not affect the radiant floor heating system, it determines placement of the PEX tubing in the slab, which in itself is an important factor. Unless special design considerations require otherwise, the tubing should always be positioned on top of the reinforcement, in order to stay closer to the surface of the slab.

If using welded wire mesh, you may want opt for sheets rather than rolls whenever possible. They are noticeably easier to install and provide a flatter surface. The main downside is that the sheets have to be tied together.

Optimal depth of PEX tubing in the thick slab is considered to be in the 1-2" range and, whenever possible, should not be deeper than 4" for the following reasons:
Placing tubing too deep in the slab will increase response time, which means it will take longer for the floor to reach the desired temperature, will result in increased BTU load, require more energy and possibly will require larger tubing diameter.
Concrete height above PEX adds additional R value, and while it’s minimal in most instances, more energy would be required to heat the topmost surface.

Since in non-reinforced slabs tubing is generally positioned at the bottom (secured with foamboard staples or PEX rails), their thickness should not exceed 4-5". Otherwise, the system will not run efficiently. The only remedy for a deep slab is to install reinforcement and position PEX tubing on top, closer to the surface.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#266  
I don't think the point of pressurizing pex is for leak detection, stopping the pour so you can fix a leak. I think it's for protection against crushing/kinking. Even if it's not much, it's something, it doesn't cost you anything, so why not? Who has time to keep an eye on a gauge during a pour?

The pour crew will likely be 2 guys 60+ who have been doing it for 40 years and 4 guys who are younger. First truck at 8am, 2nd truck at 11am, cleanup truck at 2pm. What day still not sure, it came down in sheets today. Hoping for next saturday.

Today was sidewall insulation, pex cleanup, and pour inspection. Now that all pex is in place I could go around and cut the perimiter wire back 2" and put in insulation, caulked it to the wall to keep it from moving during the pour and kept it at the 6" mark. The slab is more than 6", it's 6" up the first block, but since I hit it all with the jumping jack and lost .5-2" in areas there will be extra thickness.

That pex is a bear to work with, but i managed it. with the wire pushed down to the bottom the elbows come just out of the surface. I'm happy with how it came out, but I'm still watching for places it could potentially go wrong.

IUAEBID.jpg


5Q2Nw7g.jpg
 
   / New garage time!
  • Thread Starter
#267  

This is where I started to get my information, then searched around and found a lot of supporting information, so I decided to go with it. I posted that link up 5-6 pages ago. I know pouring isn't easy, I've done my share. Adding pex and not being able to walk on it adds complications. But I don't think it's impossible.
 
   / New garage time! #268  

I think the OP posted this earlier. I understand that he's trying to follow the advice he's been given by this site. I've never heard that before.

I've saw the pex tied to the rebar with the rebar on chairs placing it in the middle of the slab. I understand the OP is using the mesh to determine his spacing which is necessary because his rebar is on 24" center.

My biggest concern is dealing with the pex during pour with it that close to the surface. If he was pouring using a pumper truck I wouldn't be quite as concerned. Without one the majority of this wet concrete will be moved with come alongs.

If I were his neighbor I'd show up to help. You can't get too much help on a project like this.
 
   / New garage time! #269  
This is where I started to get my information, then searched around and found a lot of supporting information, so I decided to go with it. I posted that link up 5-6 pages ago. I know pouring isn't easy, I've done my share. Adding pex and not being able to walk on it adds complications. But I don't think it's impossible.

I'm with you in spirit. As I said above, if I were your neighbor I'd show up to help.

I know this has been a tiring project. Hang in there. Don't weaken.
 
   / New garage time!
  • Thread Starter
#270  
I wanted a pumper truck, but the price was just to unreasonable. Truck rental is $250, concrete is $100/yard, totaling $1250. Pumper is an additional $1357. If it was an additional $500, maybe I could justify it.
 

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