Woods backhoe

chander · May 29, 2020

92wrangler said:
Im not certain of the official names but One cylinder is for the bucket and the other is for the arm the the bucket is attached to. I'll have to look a little closer to see if any numbers are in there. I do have a good hydraulic shop near me, Unfortunately the cylinders are the easier part. I'm also concerned about the pump, it's a northern pump but it's old, I tried to run the name plate with no success and northern couldn't help me. I'll have to contact woods to find out flow specs and I may take the pump into a hydraulic shop for them to identify it. Thanks for the idea I hadn't thought about an independent hydraulic shop.

Like Jstpssng said, the HP rage it could be a BH 65/75. Just for some general information go onto Woods website and looks up the specifications for a BH 65/75 .
I would definitely reach out to Woods, they would ask you to do some measuring of cylinders, arms etc and they will tell you what model it is.
As for the pump, the hydraulic shop could test that and give you the approximate specifications. When you are doing all of this work, I would change the hydraulic filter and fluid also.

Norm W · May 30, 2020

If you are willing to rebuild the cylinders yourself take them apart and go to your local hydraulics shop. Take the "O" rings and seals with you, they can match them up with new. I have done the boom, crowd and bucket so far. The swing can wait and the stabilizers don't leak. I think the parts came to $10-15 for each cylinder. My BH has about 25 years of use and it has been on 3 different tractors.

5030 · May 30, 2020

I'd be careful about putting it on your Kioti (if that is what you are planning on). You really need a subframe mount hoe on that. Horsing around a 3 point BH on your Kioti can cause the rear transmission casting to fail. It's a very expensive mistake to make, Know someone who did just that. Cost him 7 grand in parts and labor. Newer tractors aren't built to absorb the strain a 3PH backhoe imparts on them.

Just be aware of that.

You may never have an issue but you get that hoe in a bit of a twist, it will break the casting.

Jstpssng · May 30, 2020

5030 said:
I'd be careful about putting it on your Kioti (if that is what you are planning on). You really need a subframe mount hoe on that. Horsing around a 3 point BH on your Kioti can cause the rear transmission casting to fail. It's a very expensive mistake to make, Know someone who did just that. Cost him 7 grand in parts and labor. Newer tractors aren't built to absorb the strain a 3PH backhoe imparts on them.

Just be aware of that.

You may never have an issue but you get that hoe in a bit of a twist, it will break the casting.

I use my the 750 with 3pth mount which was my father's… just as I used my last "CadPlan" hoe on my old L275. I never work them hard, running barely over idle and if things start binding I back off. I've been trying to find a subframe for it as I'm not clever enough to make one. All of the dealers I talk to just want to sell me a new 'hoe... which will still need a subframe.

Tonight I wrote a letter to Woods asking them if anything is available. If not I'll probably go to a machine shop and have one built.

5030 · May 30, 2020

Jstpssng said:
I use my the 750 with 3pth mount which was my father's… just as I used my last "CadPlan" hoe on my old L275. I never work them hard, running barely over idle and if things start binding I back off. I've been trying to find a subframe for it as I'm not clever enough to make one. All of the dealers I talk to just want to sell me a new 'hoe... which will still need a subframe.

Tonight I wrote a letter to Woods asking them if anything is available. If not I'll probably go to a machine shop and have one built.

You can buy a lot of cabbage for the cost of a rear housing....

Got my spuds in the straw bales btw. Haven't peeped up yet but being good Maine seed potatoes, I'm sure they will soon.

I have nothing against a non subframe hoe, so long as you don't impart a twisting stress on the rear case. That twisting stress is what cracks them. Any good fabrication shop worth a plug can build one. All it really does is transfer the twist up towards the front of the tractor.

92wrangler · May 31, 2020

Awesome, thanks everyone for the feed back. Certainly alot of good info I'll keep in mind!

5030 · Jun 2, 2020

One thing you never want to do is lift the back wheels of the tractor off the ground with the BH stabilizers or move the tractor with the BH bucket, subframe or not. It puts a huge strain on the back case.

Jstpssng · Jun 2, 2020

Unfortunately, Woods does not make a subframe for my old BH750. I'm back to plan "A", which is trying to find one for my tractor which I can have modified to fit the older hoe. I don't use it enough to shell out the beans for a new one...

kabong57 · Jun 3, 2020

I modified an older BH-750-2 to fit a Late Model subframe.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ods-bh750-2-modified-sub.html?highlight=Woods

dnw64 · Jun 3, 2020

5030 said:
One thing you never want to do is lift the back wheels of the tractor off the ground with the BH stabilizers or move the tractor with the BH bucket, subframe or not. It puts a huge strain on the back case.

Coming from an "actual BH" background I guess I assumed lifting the rear tires (slightly) was SOP. But I can see that an SCUT/CUT/UT is not designed from the ground up to have a BH on it and that even with a subframe it it not as robust as a true BH. I will try and remember that in the future, and only lift one wheel if/when needed for leveling or getting the right angle on something.

Thanks.