Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[California]

I mean what number stamped on the rod would be best for me to use? I know there's a numbering system but don't know anything about what it all means. So, if someone could say "you need a 7042" for the bolt/nut.

... Not the project I would pick to learn to weld. ... Welding the thing into a blob simply won't be very productive. Sorry to be blunt.

Listen to IT. That isn't the place to learn to weld!!!

Wait for a pro to do it for you.

If you want to play with that welder, get some scrap and practice. You'll soon learn why welding that yourself as your first welding experience isn't going to work.

 

[aczlan]

I agree with those who say that this isn't the place to learn to weld.
I would probbaly use either 3/32" or 1/8" 6010 or 6011 to weld the nut on and 1/8" to weld on your jack bracket.

Aaron Z

 

[3Ts]

Since you're going to be removing the box cover, and putting in a 240V breaker anyway, why don't you just spend $15 extra and put a box and 240V outlet right next to the breaker panel, and make a proper 240V extension cord?

Only reason not to would be if you don't have any spare slots.

I don't have any spare slots and adding a sub-panel next to it would be problematic as well. I thought he was talking about running a temporary line for 240 v for a welder - and by the way I agree that a 120 v outlet should NEVER be used on a 240 v cable - Ever. Not even temporarily!

I also agree that this is not a project to learn to weld on and definitely not with a stick welder.

 

[Industrial Toys]

When I saw activity on this thread, I was sure hoping the bolt was OUT!

 

[/pine]

This is not a remedy to the specific issue but it is relevant to anything that is summarily "stuck" and is an abstract way of getting things done...
Just an off the wall suggestion...
Much cheaper than a welder...(this may sound strange) but a cheap (<$25) palm nailer applied to the device will create enough vibration that will not only let whatever penetrating lubricant get to where it's needed but will also often loosen "stuck" components...it acts like an "air hammer" and in my experience has saved me from untold hours of drilling and dealing with broken extractors and drill bits etc...
Using a combination of heat and penetrating fluid along with extreme vibration will often loosen stuck parts...

 

[pmsmechanic]

This is not a remedy to the specific issue but it is relevant to anything that is summarily "stuck" and is an abstract way of getting things done...
Just an off the wall suggestion...
Much cheaper than a welder...(this may sound strange) but a cheap (<$25) palm nailer applied to the device will create enough vibration that will not only let whatever penetrating lubricant get to where it's needed but will also often loosen "stuck" components...it acts like an "air hammer" and in my experience has saved me from untold hours of drilling and dealing with broken extractors and drill bits etc...
Using a combination of heat and penetrating fluid along with extreme vibration will often loosen stuck parts...

Finally someone talking my language!

 

[MossRoad]

I don't have any spare slots and adding a sub-panel next to it would be problematic as well. I thought he was talking about running a temporary line for 240 v for a welder - and by the way I agree that a 120 v outlet should NEVER be used on a 240 v cable - Ever. Not even temporarily!

I also agree that this is not a project to learn to weld on and definitely not with a stick welder.

I, too, had the issue with no spare slots in our 100amp service box, so I understand that issue. I went through my entire house when we bought it, and found a bunch of circuits with 10 outlets, 26 light bulbs, 1 outlet, 2 light bulbs, dead ends, mismarked circuits, etc.... So I had an electrician in stall a service disconnect under my meter outside, install a new box inside the house (this is now considered a sub-panel, since the main is the disconnect). We put a 100 amp breaker in the new box, and fed the old box off of that.

Then, I was able to install new wiring and circuits into the new box for all of the appliances first; well pump, furnace, dishwasher, washer, dryer, freezer, fridges, etc... and a double pole 50amp breaker to the garage for a new sub panel out there.

As time permitted, I traced/replaced/repaired all of the old wiring into new circuits into the new box. I only have maybe 3 lighting circuits left on the old box. I ended up with 2 spare slots in the new box, and I'll have 2 more when the 100 amp breaker for the old box feed comes out.

It was time consuming and necessary at first, but then after all the big stuff was done, it was nice to be able to replace the small stuff at my leisure.

 

[WranglerX]

I, too, had the issue with no spare slots in our 100amp service box, so I understand that issue. I went through my entire house when we bought it, and found a bunch of circuits with 10 outlets, 26 light bulbs, 1 outlet, 2 light bulbs, dead ends, mismarked circuits, etc.... So I had an electrician in stall a service disconnect under my meter outside, install a new box inside the house (this is now considered a sub-panel, since the main is the disconnect). We put a 100 amp breaker in the new box, and fed the old box off of that.

Then, I was able to install new wiring and circuits into the new box for all of the appliances first; well pump, furnace, dishwasher, washer, dryer, freezer, fridges, etc... and a double pole 50amp breaker to the garage for a new sub panel out there.

As time permitted, I traced/replaced/repaired all of the old wiring into new circuits into the new box. I only have maybe 3 lighting circuits left on the old box. I ended up with 2 spare slots in the new box, and I'll have 2 more when the 100 amp breaker for the old box feed comes out.

It was time consuming and necessary at first, but then after all the big stuff was done, it was nice to be able to replace the small stuff at my leisure.

I'm sort of going this way, still have about 5 beakers out if about 30 to identify where they go.........

IF one needs to gain breaker space for maybe one or two more, one could always change out "single" for "duplex"...

Not to be confusesed with "double" breaker for 240v circuit...

Dale

 

[MossRoad]

I'm sort of going this way, still have about 5 beakers out if about 30 to identify where they go.........

IF one needs to gain breaker space for maybe one or two more, one could always change out "single" for "duplex"...


Not to be confusesed with "double" breaker for 240v circuit...

Dale

Yeah, my old box had several of those as well.

 

[Richard]

When I saw activity on this thread, I was sure hoping the bolt was OUT!

Well, I do have a bit of an update for you.

1. The bolt is NOT out.
2. My fabricator guy stopped by to asses situation.
3. We have a Miller 400 amp welder there that is also a generator so we've got most/all of what we (he) needs.
4. He's going to first, attempt to weld the nut and see if we can back it out.
5. If that doesn't work, we might take the entire wheel knuckle off so he can take it to his shop and get good angles on it.....possibly to rethread it too should it get stripped

Hope to hear back from him tomorrow (Saturday) with his game plan and, more important to me, his time frame. I got things to do.