Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[Industrial Toys]

This may not help. But it's worth noting that you can weld using lead acid batteries. IF I was intent on making this my first welding project, and was really stuck, I just might give that a try. High amperage DC is High amperage DC.

Considering tht you have "one" little weld to make, I would play with this idea. Beats rewiring your whole house.

 

[Richard]

If I lived near you, I'd toss my little 110v wire feed into my trunk, drive over, we'd weld a nut on there, back it out, and sip a couple root beers. Good luck. I know it can get frustrating.

Well....you would have been in for a rude surprise!!!

Worked on this thing most of yesterday AND today.

My fabricator buddy came over. Brought his rosebud torch.

1. We tried to drill out that bolt. (I forget the name, Beetle plug? something named after an insect) Anyway, snapped & shattered about 4 bits before we went to the second plan.

2. Second plan was to cut the pin above, below so the bent arm can now be removed and we'll figure out the sections AND how do we now remove the drilled and still stuck lock bolt?

3. Ended up cutting the pin out. Lower section was able to be banged out finally (FINALLY!!) decided to remove Pin that connects two front wheels for steering purposes.... had to heat it, bang it......finally twisting it, broke it free and got it out.

4. I finally took front tire off so we can have free space

5. Nothing going on with the pin....I made a comment of why not remove Kingpin (which really needs to be replaced AND I happen to already have the replacement kit)....so remove king pin, take entire knuckle over to his shop where he's got his serious tools.

6. Started on the King Pin....Applied loads & loads of heat to the axle and the pin just laughed and laughed at us.

7. Spent probably 3 hours with a 7" grinder, Sawzall (carbide blades), 4" grinder (WITH 7" cutoff wheel.... I know I know.....)

8. FINALLY got the king pin cut on top, cut on bottom and got knuckle off (drove it over to his shop)

9. Before we cut the Kingpin, he welded a spare loader bucket tooth I had to the top of it to see if we could rotate the Kingpin.... brought my neighbors John Deere (?? about 40 HP) and attached my chain to the now, perpendicular tooth.... he pulled forward and rather than rotating pin, it pulled tooth off, TWICE. THEN I decided to just cut the SOB.

10. Left as much as I could of the Kingpin. My pal is going to get some steel that he has, cut a matching circle, WELD this entire thing as contrasted to the tooth for my loader bucket (this part is pending)

Hopefully the bar will be 5-10 feet long for a lot of leverage....

Stay tuned.

Oh, and that steering knuckle assembly is a heavy little bugger!!

 

[Richard]

He's falling in love with the welder I have (my brother in laws)

My brother in law buys/sells trades and I'd have to imagine would be happy to sell it..... however, both are cheapskates looking for their own best interest deal (who wouldn't??!!) and I doubt they'd both be happy with the others valuation.

Works like a champ though.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Which all goes to prove that, messing around with penetrating oil and a propane torch is "usually" a total waste of time.

 

[MossRoad]

Well....you would have been in for a rude surprise!!!

Worked on this thing most of yesterday AND today.

My fabricator buddy came over. Brought his rosebud torch.

1. We tried to drill out that bolt. (I forget the name, Beetle plug? something named after an insect) Anyway, snapped & shattered about 4 bits before we went to the second plan.

2. Second plan was to cut the pin above, below so the bent arm can now be removed and we'll figure out the sections AND how do we now remove the drilled and still stuck lock bolt?

3. Ended up cutting the pin out. Lower section was able to be banged out finally (FINALLY!!) decided to remove Pin that connects two front wheels for steering purposes.... had to heat it, bang it......finally twisting it, broke it free and got it out.

4. I finally took front tire off so we can have free space

5. Nothing going on with the pin....I made a comment of why not remove Kingpin (which really needs to be replaced AND I happen to already have the replacement kit)....so remove king pin, take entire knuckle over to his shop where he's got his serious tools.

6. Started on the King Pin....Applied loads & loads of heat to the axle and the pin just laughed and laughed at us.

7. Spent probably 3 hours with a 7" grinder, Sawzall (carbide blades), 4" grinder (WITH 7" cutoff wheel.... I know I know.....)

8. FINALLY got the king pin cut on top, cut on bottom and got knuckle off (drove it over to his shop)

9. Before we cut the Kingpin, he welded a spare loader bucket tooth I had to the top of it to see if we could rotate the Kingpin.... brought my neighbors John Deere (?? about 40 HP) and attached my chain to the now, perpendicular tooth.... he pulled forward and rather than rotating pin, it pulled tooth off, TWICE. THEN I decided to just cut the SOB.

10. Left as much as I could of the Kingpin. My pal is going to get some steel that he has, cut a matching circle, WELD this entire thing as contrasted to the tooth for my loader bucket (this part is pending)

Hopefully the bar will be 5-10 feet long for a lot of leverage....

Stay tuned.

Oh, and that steering knuckle assembly is a heavy little bugger!!



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No where in there did I see mention of trying to weld a nut onto the broken bolt and backing it out with a wrench. Did you try that first before trying to drill it out?

 

[Industrial Toys]

Like I said a million posts ago. It all matters how the bolt head broke off. Did it get sheared off, or did the head break off, trying to remove it because the bold was seized. You won't get that out with an easy out if the bolt is seized. And probably not by welding something on, if the bolt head already broke off on account of the bolt being seized.

If that bolt had been installed by the OEM, decades ago, without any grease, it might as well be welded in there. And through galvanic action, it might just be.

 

[cqaigy2]

This is not a remedy to the specific issue but it is relevant to anything that is summarily "stuck" and is an abstract way of getting things done...
Just an off the wall suggestion...
Much cheaper than a welder...(this may sound strange) but a cheap (<$25) palm nailer applied to the device will create enough vibration that will not only let whatever penetrating lubricant get to where it's needed but will also often loosen "stuck" components...it acts like an "air hammer" and in my experience has saved me from untold hours of drilling and dealing with broken extractors and drill bits etc...
Using a combination of heat and penetrating fluid along with extreme vibration will often loosen stuck parts...

Got a palm nailer, going to add this to my tool kit. :thumbsup:

 

[Richard]

No where in there did I see mention of trying to weld a nut onto the broken bolt and backing it out with a wrench. Did you try that first before trying to drill it out?

I totally forgot.

Item 1/2 is, we (he) welded a nut. I'm not sure how to word this, but he said he took a nut, reamed it out a bit so that the (internal) sides were a bit angled like \_/

My interpretation of this was so he could have more weld in there but I know so little about welding I don't know what the truth was.

Anyway, the nut just sheared off. I actually intended to get a picture of it....it's on my toolbox and forgot. It was the first fail and it was from there that we went to drilling. I had no idea carbide bits could shatter like I saw his shatter. (I was doing the drilling so had first person view!) it was really the only thing we used that got any material drilled out of that (I just remembered what he called it) the Grub Screw.

To use a phrase from my grandfather...... this guy "is a pistol". He's a very colorful personality and I say with some fear in my mind... I "get" his humor (I'm wondering what this says about me!) That said..... he will talk more than two/three teenagers at a slumber party. Seems if he's awake, he's yacking about something (usually with a humorous point of view) I enjoy being around him and learning a thing or five..... but he simply won't shut up! (I'm smiling as I say that so I don't mean it with ill intent).

This welder my brother in law brought over... has been a life saver. It's been used more for the generator than welder. I didn't have to use the contraption I (so crafty) made with the 8-3 wire and 20 amp circuits. It's probably a good thing we didn't need my contraption.

 

[Richard]

Like I said a million posts ago. It all matters how the bolt head broke off. Did it get sheared off, or did the head break off, trying to remove it because the bold was seized. You won't get that out with an easy out if the bolt is seized. And probably not by welding something on, if the bolt head already broke off on account of the bolt being seized.

If that bolt had been installed by the OEM, decades ago, without any grease, it might as well be welded in there. And through galvanic action, it might just be.

They were calling this a grub screw. It turns out it's just a (let's say) one inch length threaded allen screw. You tighten it with an allen wrench into the pocket on the pin that actually does the holding. Then, you have a jamb nut on the outside that locks the grub in place.

Hard for me to see how the exterior portion of this could be snapped off but, it's certainly gone. Took the same pin out on the connecting rod that attaches the right wheel to the left wheel so they both turn..... and we had to torch that too. I had sprayed some Kroil (on all these parts) and you could just tell it wasn't going to budge until the heat hit it.

I've owned this machine (built in 1987) since roughly year 2000 so I've had it for something like 20 years. All I can factually vouch for is none of these steering pins have been touched/removed by me during my 20 years.

It really is curious to me how that grub pin got sheared off since it's so short.

 

[Xfaxman]

They were calling this a grub screw. It turns out it's just a (let's say) one inch length threaded allen screw. You tighten it with an allen wrench into the pocket on the pin that actually does the holding. Then, you have a jamb nut on the outside that locks the grub in place.

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It really is curious to me how that grub pin got sheared off since it's so short.

My guess is that the jamb nut was over-tightened when installed and it cracked the allen screw.

Over the years the crack got bigger until it fell off.