rScotty
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Or burnt contacts in the starter solenoid?
YM240 starting issues
- Thread starter Cjessee
- Start date
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Or burnt contacts in the starter solenoid?
California
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Just from a trouble shooting/diagnostic perspective, that couldn't cause 'no headlights'.
rScotty
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oops, I didn't see that bit of info. I agree; it's the ignition switch. Has anyone ever rebuilt their ignition switch?
rScotty
California
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You would need one of those specialty tools used by instrument repair techs, that bends and seals a fresh replacement ring around the edge of gauges, speedometers, etc. My switch didn't look too bad inside after I scrubbed all the dead pillbugs out but there was no way (without a fresh ring and that tool) to re-seal it, or to hold the front/back halves together.
Thank you all for all the suggestions and assistance. I will check the ignition switch and go from there. From what I have gathered from your replies, the ignition switch sounds like the probable culprit. Does anyone know of an automotive style replacement or should I just order a switch from Hoye?
rScotty
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I've wondered about that tool. What does it looks like? And why doesn't anyone I know have one?
I've got as many weird tools as anyone I know, but I've never seen one & don't even know if that crimper tool has a name.
And for us curious types, how do you think that pill bugs get into the switch housing? Don't they seem a little too large to fit through the key slot?
It couldn't be as youngsters, or could it? ..... although wouldn't that require that switches are manufactured with pill bug chow inside?
I've got as many weird tools as anyone I know, but I've never seen one & don't even know if that crimper tool has a name.
And for us curious types, how do you think that pill bugs get into the switch housing? Don't they seem a little too large to fit through the key slot?
It couldn't be as youngsters, or could it? ..... although wouldn't that require that switches are manufactured with pill bug chow inside?
California
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Just get the Hoye replica. You need the spring-return 'twist left for Thermostart' feature which isn't included on an automotive switch. And you need the size, and terminal labeling, to match what's in there now. Hoye's price is as good as anyone for a quality switch.
I've seen it. A specialty instrument repair shop opened near my Jr Hi and I was fascinated to see them seal up expensive gauges after they re-calibrated them. As I recall it worked similar to can opener. An English Wheel might be the closest familiar tool. It knurled various size rings that they stocked.
There was a small hole (drain?) on the back edge of the switch. Maybe the plastic innards were an attractant? Maybe, like rats, they ate newcomers and grew, when they couldn't find the way out. There must have been a swarm living under there while the tractor was abandoned for a while by a previous owner. I found several signs of dis-use. The worst sign was obviously years-old rancid fuel plus lots of minor electrical gremlins like what Cjessee is tracing now. After a month of maintenance and remedying neglect, its been reliable for 17 years now.
Interestingly my YM240 has a push button switch mounted on the steering column below the dash to operate the thermo start. It seems that the switch must have been an issue before I purchased it and is now getting to the point of no return. The little tractor has had a rough life apparently. When I purchased it 3 years ago for $1000, it had been shot a few times. Left rear wheel shot. Left headlight shot. Alternator and radiator were also shot. I had the radiator repaired. I replaced the alternator and installed led headlights. And I have also replaced the steering column. It shows about 960 hours on the clock. After I get the starting issue fixed, I plan to attempt to fix the lift. The lift is stuck in the up position. I have read a thread about it and will attempt to remedy it when mowing season is over
