Tractor overheats when mowing. No dealer actions fix it. Any ideas?

[brs78660]

Hello everyone. I have been posting in the LS tractor section because that is what this tractor is, but has anyone ever had issues like this with any brand tractor? I made a video of my issue here: (YouTube link so beware for those that hate that). I go into all the issues I have had to deal with and what lead up to the problem in the video. *** BTW, I try to use a little bit of comedy to cover up my anger. It helps to keep me from having a heart attack with all these issues. I also do not have great things to say about the brand because I am tried of fighting with them and its wearing me down. Please ignore that and let me know if you have any ideas.

For those that don't like to watch videos or hate YouTube, here is more info:

- The tractor was great for about 9 months. Everything was good except for a power steering pump issue that later got fixed.

- Then the hydraulic cooler split at a seam and sprayed hydraulic fluid all over the engine compartment. The cooler was replaced under warranty and the tractor was decreased. I took it home.

- Many issues started after this so it went back to the shop where they replaced the alternator, starter, belts, gaskets, seals, ... that was suppose to fix the issues. I took it home.

- I can't mow without it overheating. I clean it over and over and it still does it. It goes back to the shop. They replace belts, the radiator, and foam around the radiator. I took it home.

- I still can't mow without it overheating. Then I start to get fuel system errors and the tractor will not work. I bring it back to the shop where they replace the injectors, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, they drop the tank and test the gas (no issue found), they have it 3 or 4 months and reprogram the ecu and whatever else they did to try and get it running.

- I finally get it back and it still can't mow without it overheating. It only happens it seems when there is a load on the tractor like the mower. If I just drive around in it and do nothing to tax the engine its fine. The only thing I have that would put load on the tractor is mowing.

Any ideas? When they replaced all the fuel system items they said they saw corrosion in the pump and fuel system. I asked them if there is corrosion in the cooling system and they say no, but I don't think they have ever taken the water pump off to see. Its like the cooling inside the engine is plugged up or something but I have no clue. Its under warranty and I want it fixed.

EDIT: And yes, I check the air flow and its clean. There is no debris in the radiator or coolers nor on the hood vents.

 

[Agvg]

Do you have circulation in the radiator? Does it get hot and does the lower hose get hot? And you are sure it is hot and not an indicator issue?

 

[brs78660]

Do you have circulation in the radiator? Does it get hot and does the lower hose get hot? And you are sure it is hot and not an indicator issue?

It looks like it does. I have pulled the cap before when it was running and you can see motion in the fluid.

The engine gets really hot, so I do think its overheating instead of a faulty sensor. When it officially overheats it will throw errors and go into limp mode until it cools down. If I stop and let the engine run it will cool down. It seems to be only when its under load.

 

[Agvg]

But are there heat in the radiator if you touch it?hot at the top and warm at the bottom? Does it sound the same as before? Easy to start?

 

[brs78660]

But are there heat in the radiator if you touch it?hot at the top and warm at the bottom? Does it sound the same as before? Easy to start?

Its easy to start and sounds the same. I have an infrared thermometer. I will try to get the temps on both hoses. I have not done that but you are right it will at least let me know how the flow is going and if the radiator is actually cooling.

I don't live out there, but I will go by there in a few days and let it run to see the temp difference. If I need to mow again and reproduce it to test that I will.

 

[radios1]

overheating has happened before on this model, perhaps the radiator is too small, you can have a custom made aluminum radiator made for not too much, or reduce the load on the engine so it don't get so hot. also, adding an electric radiator fan might do the trick!!.. the point is, you are overtaxing the engine as it is designed!..

 

[Maxify55]

I have an XR3037HC. One size down from his unit.
I have repeatedly had to stop during a 90+ degree day while mowing (72" Land Pride Finish Mower).
If I idle in the shade for awhile with the doors open, a/c off.
The temp guage comes back into the safe range for a little while but, for sure,
the engine and radiator are undersized for HST, A/C & PTO operation in Fla. or Tex. work, IMHO.
It's tough working in this environment during the extreme temps of the year.

 

[brs78660]

I have an XR3037HC. One size down from his unit.
I have repeatedly had to stop during a 90+ degree day while mowing (72" Land Pride Finish Mower).
If I idle in the shade for awhile with the doors open, a/c off.
The temp guage comes back into the safe range for a little while but, for sure,
the engine and radiator are undersized for HST, A/C & PTO operation in Fla. or Tex. work, IMHO.
It's tough working in this environment during the extreme temps of the year.

My issue is it use to mow without issue when it was new. After all the issues it had about 9 months in, this problem started.

 

[finn1]

You didn’t mention the thermostat in your laundry list of items replaced. If the thermostat isn’t opening fully the coolant flow through the radiator will be reduced.

Heat rejection to the coolant is a function of fuel rate, and heat rejection from the radiator is a function of coolant flow and airflow. Sounds like airflow has been covered. A partially open stat recirculates coolant through the block, not the radiator.

 

[rademamj1]

My Kioti tractor overheats while using my medium duty 60" rotary cutter, only in the hot Texas summertime, and only with field grass higher than 24" tall. The really dusty field grass constantly plugs the radiator screens, with the necessity to blow out or wash down the screens every hour.

1. Keep your radiator screens clean
2. Mow in early morning or late evening when its cooler
3. Mowing at a slower speed or lower rpm helps

 

[brs78660]

You didn’t mention the thermostat in your laundry list of items replaced. If the thermostat isn’t opening fully the coolant flow through the radiator will be reduced.

Heat rejection to the coolant is a function of fuel rate, and heat rejection from the radiator is a function of coolant flow and airflow. Sounds like airflow has been covered. A partially open stat recirculates coolant through the block, not the radiator.

I will do another test and check the hose temps on the way in and way out. I think that will help me know if the thermostat is working, right?

 

[ruffdog]

The one thing I would look for is powder plugging up between the radiator fins. The only way to check a radiator is to look through it with a light on the back side. Sometimes you have to use mirrors and a helper but a clear radiator should be clear to see through. The powder the consistency of cement powder is the worst. Then, when a person puts water to it.....plugged.

 

[Oldpath05]

I just cleaned the screen and radiator last week in mine, it was plugged with dust and debris, still ran cool, the only time my (07) L3400dt over heated was when the fan belt broke, other then that the gauge gets no wheres near the half way point but ME is a long ways from Texas. Maybe hydro tractors get hot easier, try taking the thermostat out and run some strong radiator/block cleaner in it, shorten up the next video and do more hollering.

 

[kthompson]

Air intake restriction will do the same overheating issues. Check air filter also.

 

[zzvyb6]

It seems to me that it all goes back to the hydraulic cooler splitting. Then dis-assembly to change the cooler. Then re-assembly how so ? Mis-plumbed, collapsed hose, fan on backwards? You know, mechanic issues.

From there it's heat management: radiator blocked, water pump kaput, head gasket leak, wrong fuel or fuel mixed with something additional.

Will it overheat just by sitting at idle after a while?

Running wide open without the mower deck engaged ?

Plugged exhaust/muffler ?

Water vs. anti-freeze ?

Head and or block passages plugged ?

load it up stationary and run a garden hose into the radiator and pull off the return hose. What's the return water temperature like?

From my standpoint, the thermostat is blocked or snafu-ed. Pull it out completely. Maybe its in upside down.

You know, heat in from somewhere, heat out from extraction, air flow and mechanical work.

 

[rademamj1]

It could be a partially stuck thermostat. Remove it as a possible problem. Not needed anyway here in Texas. It was reaching 98F this week and is expected to be 105F in July here in Central Texas. I refuse to mow using the tractor and rotary cutter until cooler weather in September, so until then other projects will get priority.

 

[Oldpath05]

Gee wizz sounding more like me the only cure is a orange tractor............

 

[ckengine03]

I would look at thermostat and also if hydraulic oil was spraying all over it could have gotten between the radiator fins with other dust and such and clogged up the air flow. You may want to try cleaning it with a good solvent instead of just air.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Mmmm, surprisingly there is another thread about a JD overheating with AC on...
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...hn-deere-5425-overheating-under-new-post.html
Wonder if it stems back to the hydro oil getting into the compressor?

 

[jp2code]

My Kubota L4400 was overheating. I suspected a blown head gasket, so I sent it to the dealership to have them fix it.

They gave it a compression test, and it came back OK. It wasn't the head gasket.

They also checked a lot of other things like the thermostat (put it in boiling water to make sure it opens) and to make sure my coolant ratio was dead on (it was about 65% glycol and the rest water instead of 50/50 like they recommend, so they fixed the issue and kept testing). Their way of testing was to go out and mow along the highway for a few hours until it started overheating.

After they had it a week, they simply decided to throw out the old thermostat and replace it with another one. That fixed my issue, but I still had to pay for about 10 hours of labor where they were mowing with the tractor. Freaking expensive. I need one of your jokes here.