Oil & Fuel BX 2670 Oil Blow-Off

[robertm]

Does anybody know if there is an oil blow-off port or breather that would release oil if overfilled?
I changed oil in my tractor, and shortly thereafter, it started leaking. Since the oil was clean, the drop here or there resembled hydro fluid. I thought it was the power steering. Well, after use, the motor oil blackened, and the drops became really heavy. I looked under the tractor and four oil all over the place.
I began to think the rear main seal was leaking and the oil was being slung all to the left side of the tractor by the flywheel. So, after watching the oil level drop about 1/8 of a quart over 15 hours, but making a mess, I removed the grille guard, side panels, and hood, and sprayed Purple Power to degrease the tractor. Now, I find no leak.
The oil level after changing was below the “1/2 Down” mark on the dipstick, so I added over 1/2 quart to bring it up to the full mark. The manual says oil should be filled to the “full” mark. That’s what I did.
Now I’m wondering if the engine blew the oil out and will now be done. Could the rear main seal now be damaged from following the manual? The oil did not foam, but the oil level has dropped, which I attribute to loss, not burning. My tractor at the whopping 245 hours has never used oil. I’m wondering if I should be concerned. It’s under warranty, but if it won’t leak now, they won’t replace a seal. Is there a place the engine would blow off extra oil?

 

[sandyc]

Don’t believe there is an open breather. Did you try tightening the filter? Was the dipstick not fully inserted? New crush washer on drain? Just some random thoughts?

 

[robertm]

Checked all those. I’m betting it’s the rear seal, but without being able to see oil dripping or similar, it’s hard to see. I’ll run it longer while mowing and see what develops. Thanks.

 

[nepa]

When I first bought my BX2660 my first oil change was the same that when you put in the amount of oil called for in the owners manual the dip stick would read way low. There were lots of posts here saying to bring it to full on the stick. After years of service, this has not presented any problems. I have had other tractors that when accidently adding a quart too much of T6 led to foaming and breaking the oil pump shaft.

 

[sandyc]

Almost every Kubota I have owned showed a spec for fluids that could be over or under. When I change any fluid I figure 80 % of the manufacturer’s spec and then go from there.

 

[5030]

Is it a common rail emissions engine or is it a non emissions engine? If it's non emissions, it's coming tubing that connects to the oil separator on the top of the valve cover on a Kubota engine. Commonly called a road draft tube, it allows internal pressure to equalize and be vented to the atmosphere. Unless you have done something to the engine in 245 hours to adversely impact the valve guides, the guide seals or the piston rings, that amount of 'blow by' to create atomized oil in the tube is unusual. By chancedid you have the valve cover off and fiddle with the separator or did you do something to the motor adversely?

Both mine (2000 and 5000 hours) will show some atomized oil vapor at the tube but rarely, if ever drip anything.

Need more details.

 

[robertm]

Is it a common rail emissions engine or is it a non emissions engine? If it's non emissions, it's coming tubing that connects to the oil separator on the top of the valve cover on a Kubota engine. Commonly called a road draft tube, it allows internal pressure to equalize and be vented to the atmosphere. Unless you have done something to the engine in 245 hours to adversely impact the valve guides, the guide seals or the piston rings, that amount of 'blow by' to create atomized oil in the tube is unusual. By chancedid you have the valve cover off and fiddle with the separator or did you do something to the motor adversely?

Both mine (2000 and 5000 hours) will show some atomized oil vapor at the tube but rarely, if ever drip anything.

Need more details.

I’ve done absolutely nothing other than change the oil. I change it every spring, but this time, I topped it off. Since then, the leak started.

 

[5030]

I’ve done absolutely nothing other than change the oil. I change it every spring, but this time, I topped it off. Since then, the leak started.

Did you change oil brands? On a long shot, you may have something failing inside the motor that is causing excessive blowby and oil dripping from the draft tune / hose. Stuck rings, worn valve guides, cracked valve stem seals are real common causes of excessive crankcase vapor. You need to get yourself a Workshop Manual and get the specification for acceptable blowby and determine if you exceed that and if you do, it's time to look inside.

 

[5030]

Don’t believe there is an open breather. Did you try tightening the filter? Was the dipstick not fully inserted? New crush washer on drain? Just some random thoughts?

Depends on the year (which is not listed btw) and emissions level. T2 and below will have a 'to the atmosphere' breather on the valve cover top and a hose leading to the bottom of the tractor. T3 and later will have a PCV setup that vents the blowby into the intake airflow. All depends on year and emissions level.

 

[robertm]

Well, ran the tractor yesterday. Not a drop. I think the “full” mark is too full for the tractor’s liking. I’ll take the deck off in a few weeks and degrease the underside before I add my fuel filter upgrade kit. Then, I’ll double check the oil pan gasket bolts and give it a full review. I doubt there is anything waiting to grenade, but I’m going to have to verify everything before warranty is up.