Trailer loading ramps question

[MAD MARK]

Making a new set of loading ramps since my last set buckled under the weight of my tractor while loading it. JD4310 with 48 BH and 430 Bucket. ~ 5500#

Old ramps were 3" angle 3/16" thick.
New ramps were going to be built to same dimensions just with 1/4" stock.

But, come across some cheap C channel 3" 1/8" thick. I know that C channel is better stiffness wise, especially when comparing the same sizes to angle iron.

So is the C channel of 1/8" thickness stiffer than Angle iron of 1/4" when used in a ramp building application.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would think the channel iron would be much better than the angle. I have built trailers out if both and I prefer channel.

I have a pair of 6ft aluminum ramps rated for 2500 lbs per axle I use on my car trailer. I have used them to load my 4310 with the bucket full of dirt and my grader blade on. A backhoe might be their undoing though.

 

[Darryle]

Build them out of the 1/4" angle, aesthetics and ease of construction are my reasoning. My 20' trailer ramps are 1/4" thick and rated for 7000lbs according to the manufacturer. I will snap a picture of them tonight. I hate lifting them and putting them back in the slots on the sides, but I doubt I will ever destroy them.

 

[MAD MARK]

Only asking about the C Channel because I can pick that up for $5 a stick (5' already cut to length).

I took a picture of my ramps in where you can see they were bent, and I bent them back into place causing a "crease" in the sides. They were 2x2x3/16

 

[Bearsixty7]

Only asking about the C Channel because I can pick that up for $5 a stick (5' already cut to length).

I took a picture of my ramps in where you can see they were bent, and I bent them back into place causing a "crease" in the sides. They were 2x2x3/16


View attachment 663228

You could hammer that back flat and just weld on an additional piece of angle iron on both sides on both ramps and it would be stronger.

 

[MAD MARK]

Thats what I was thinking about doing. I know the integrity of metal doesnt like much to be bending back and forth though. It bent after using it 2 times so I figured I was pushing it way too hard.

 

[Reb954]

Cut and weld some 3/16" or 1/4" x 2" flat to fit between the angle cross members on both sides. That makes it easy to weld the ends to the angle cross members and to the side angle. That will be as strong as channel and take a lot less time to make.

 

[greenlizard112]

I built ramps using 4 inch channel with 3/16 angle as the rungs. They are plenty strong, but do require assist springs because of the weight.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I built ramps using 4 inch channel with 3/16 angle as the rungs. They are plenty strong, but do require assist springs because of the weight.

Those would probably hold a dozer!

 

[Darryle]

Those would probably hold a dozer!

Yeah, they look plenty robust

 

[greenlizard112]

It’s a 12,000 lb GVWR trailer. Yes the ramps and trailer are overkill for my 3025d, but my son has a 9500 lb mini-excavator I want to borrow. I built with that in mind. Of course my truck can’t actually tow that kind of load, but one thing at a time...

 

[Darryle]

GL, you should be OK, that is some good fab work also

 

[davedj1]

How long are those ramps? Secondly do you really need them that long? Shorter would be stronger. My 7K car hauler has ramps that are built just like that but with 1/4" x 2" angle, they are 14" wide and 49" long. You could always lay a block of 6x6 at midspan of the ramp.

 

[MAD MARK]

They are exactly 5 foot. And yes need to be that long as the backhoe drags at that length. I'm thinking the 3/16 to 1/4 difference makes all the world of difference.

 

[TractorGuy]

Spring for a set of aluminum ramps. Your back will thank you and you won't regret it.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ss...12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xramps.TRS0&_nkw=ramps&_sacat=0

 

[aczlan]

They are exactly 5 foot. And yes need to be that long as the backhoe drags at that length. I'm thinking the 3/16 to 1/4 difference makes all the world of difference.

Do you use them with that side up as shown in the picture?
If so, when you rebuild them, put the angle the other way (so that the edges are to the inside and the bottom, not the inside and the top).
That will make them MUCH stronger.
The channel that you were talking about would also work even at the same thickness as flat steel is weak in compression and the way that they are built puts that flat edge in compression.
If you straightened out that kink and put a couple pieces of angle on top (so that the edges pointed in and down), then welded it together, it would probably not give you trouble again.

Aaron Z

 

[MAD MARK]

My plan on Saturday is to weld 2x2x3/16 (what's on there) on top of what's there.

Yes I know will be heavy, right now they weigh about 44# a piece. Should add another 24# but it's cheap compared to the aluminum ones.

When I hit the lotto, I'll have someone load these machines for me!!

 

[Shredcini]

I built ramps using 4 inch channel with 3/16 angle as the rungs. They are plenty strong, but do require assist springs because of the weight.

Nice burley ramps!

Assist springs are a great idea. Need to work that into my ramp, it's a beast.

 

[Shredcini]

Spring for a set of aluminum ramps. Your back will thank you and you won't regret it.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ss...12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xramps.TRS0&_nkw=ramps&_sacat=0

No doubt AL is the way...

 

[jocww]

No doubt AL is the way...

Your wallet will when somebody steals them