Tell me what you see here?

[ovrszd]

"Recognition" based on what ??


Post a comment or contact the man in the video and offer to pay for a Swiss hammer test...!

Pine, I respect your experience. And I'll just assume you didn't see the rebar piling up when they were pouring? For me personally, that identitifies a poor quality pour.

 

[/pine]

Without seeing or being privy to the mix design analysis it is impossible to make even an educated guess as to the strength of the end product...
Depending on the said mix design the rebar could possibly have been entirely unneeded...

I'm not and never was defending the execution of placing the concrete...my point clearly was missed by many that made assumptions based solely on what the video displayed...

 

[ovrszd]

Without seeing or being privy to the mix design analysis it is impossible to make even an educated guess as to the strength of the end product...
Depending on the said mix design the rebar could possibly have been entirely unneeded...

I'm not and never was defending the execution of placing the concrete...my point clearly was missed by many that made assumptions based solely on what the video displayed...

I understand. I never was commenting on the strength of the finished product.

 

[Cat_Driver]

The part you do not understand with all due respect is we all saw the same thing. We all, or I should say MOST of us can detect "VISUALLY" that the mix was too wet. I think that's not even debatable that the mix was too wet. Anyone that has ever poured a yard of concrete knows that the mix should look like.

OK don't take my word that the load was too thin even those it flowed out of the hose like water. Take the word of the people that actually make a concrete mix.


Project Instructions
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.

Step 1
Empty the mix into a mortar tub or wheelbarrow and form a depression in the middle of the mix.

Step 2
Measure the recommended water amount (each 80-pound bag of concrete mix will require about 3 quarts of water).

Step 3
Pour approximately 2/3 of the water into the depression. If using liquid cement color, add to the mixing water.

Step 4
Work the mix with a hoe, gradually adding water, until the mix reaches a uniform, workable consistency.
Properly mixed concrete should look like thick oatmeal and should hold its shape when it is squeezed in a gloved hand.

NOTE: the more water that is added to the mix the weaker it becomes; adding one extra quart of water per 80 lb bag can reduce the strength of the concrete by up to 40%.

Mixing Concrete Hand Mixing | QUIKRETE: Cement and Concrete Products

There is now on earth what we all saw on the video..... looks like thick oatmeal and should hold its shape when it is squeezed in a gloved hand.

ALSO THIS:

When there is too much water in the concrete, there is greater shrinkage with the possibility for more cracks and reduced compressive strength. As a general rule, every additional inch of slump decreases strength by approximately 500 psi. So for example, if you ordered 5-inch slump concrete and received 7ｽ inches, a mix designed to be 4000 psi would end up being 2500 psi. This represents a serious loss in strength, especially if you were placing exterior concrete in a freeze/thaw climate where the standard requirement is 4000 psi for proper durability.

https://www.concreteconstruction.net/products/decorative-concrete-surfaces/when-concrete-is-too-wet_o

Finally, no one can determine what will ever drive on that concrete. The current owner may only place lawn mowers, but if he sells the place and the next owner wants to store heavy tractors in their then they will have a problem with the concrete being too weak.

 

[/pine]

Without knowing the complete mix formula it is IMPOSSIBLE to determine how much water would be too much...!

Here is a paste job that counters much of the incomplete data cited in the paste job of the post above...!

Anyone that has pumped concrete...especially vertically for long distances know how wet the mix has to be...!

...High slump or "flowing" concrete mixes are economical ready mix products that allow maximum flowability without sacrificing strength by adding water at the jobsite. These high slump, high strength properties are attained through the use of high range water reducing admixtures (superplasticizers). These mixes feature high slumps (8" - 11") without segregation or sacrificing strength. High slump concrete provides faster and easier placement.

Flowing Concrete (high slump) - Titan America

 

[MossRoad]

Without knowing the complete mix formula it is IMPOSSIBLE to determine how much water would be too much...!

Here is a paste job that counters much of the incomplete data cited in the paste job of the post above...!

Anyone that has pumped concrete...especially vertically for long distances know how wet the mix has to be...!



Flowing Concrete (high slump) - Titan America

Yes, that is correct. It could be perfectly adequate concrete mix if the proper additives were used to make it flowable without sacrificing strength or having the aggregate sink to the bottom.

However, look at the video between 4:15 and 4:25. The mix looks thick. They're having trouble raking it from the pile. Now advance to 4:35. It's blasting out like water. My guess (and that's only a guess) is they realized they'd never be able to rake it into position with the labor they had, and then had the truck operator water it down. Only way to know would be to ask, but that's what we see. It might not be what it is, but that's what we see.

Then, watching the video, watching the prep of the site, never seeing anything compacted, watching the concrete blast the rebar off the ground all over the place, not seeing anyone correct any of that, nor mention of it, not seeing anyone attempting to lift the rebar (it would have just sunk again anyway in that thin mix), etc.... it leans to sub-par job to the average person.

 

[dodge man]

When a driver shows up the ticket should say the mix design and how much water could be added. It is usually not very much, I have seen it say as little as 5 gallons for a full load. The only way to get it to flow better is with additives which can be kind of pricey.

 

[Ford850]

Yes, that is correct. It could be perfectly adequate concrete mix if the proper additives were used to make it flowable without sacrificing strength or having the aggregate sink to the bottom.

However, look at the video between 4:15 and 4:25. The mix looks thick. They're having trouble raking it from the pile. Now advance to 4:35. It's blasting out like water. My guess (and that's only a guess) is they realized they'd never be able to rake it into position with the labor they had, and then had the truck operator water it down. Only way to know would be to ask, but that's what we see. It might not be what it is, but that's what we see.

Then, watching the video, watching the prep of the site, never seeing anything compacted, watching the concrete blast the rebar off the ground all over the place, not seeing anyone correct any of that, nor mention of it, not seeing anyone attempting to lift the rebar (it would have just sunk again anyway in that thin mix), etc.... it leans to sub-par job to the average person.

That's a good catch MossRoad. When I watched it again, I noticed the truck is spinning in the "mixing" direction when they cut back to it at 4:30, not doubt to mix in the freshly added water. Then they blast out the thin mix seconds later.

 

[/pine]

Anyone trying to argue the points I have made are obviously completely missing them...!
Making assumptions and drawing conclusions from and playing video detective is just too funny...

 

[aczlan]

I think pouring concrete is a terrible waste of money without rebar or at least mesh. Concrete only has limited tensile strength. Steel is like a gift from heaven for concrete. Especially considering it odd, that concrete and steel have the same thermal expansion coeficient.

I would have to disagree.
We have a lot of concrete at work that gets forklifts driven over it which weight 10-12k empty and 14-16k loaded (sometimes up to 16k when overloaded).
We just had a large (<26k sf) warehouse put up with floors designed for those loads.
The ONLY metal in the floor is the dowels between the sections of the pour and between the walls and the floor.
None of it has mesh or rebar in it. Fiber and plasticizer, yes but rebar or mesh, no.
Now the walls and the footer do have rebar in them, but not the floor.

Aaron Z