Oil & Fuel Oil type and initial change

[DupuyDog]

Hi All, I bought a new 2638 in 2018. It now has about 60 hours on it. The manual says to do a 50 hour service. I spoke to my dealer (no dealer name mentioned), and he said to just change the oil and filter. I would be wasting my money to replace all the fluids and filters. Should I take his advice or spend the money to follow the book? Also, I run Rotella-T in my diesel pickup. Would that be a good choice for the 2638?

Thanks in advance!

DupuyDog

 

[RustyA]

What does your operator manual suggest? Most want hydraulic filters changed after 50 hours? Rotella T6 full synthetic is an excellent choice for all weather.

 

[Roadworthy]

To preserve your warranty do as the manual says as a minimum. Save receipts for proof and note the hours at which you do it. You may change more stuff if you wish but at least do the minimum recommended.

 

[RalphVa]

A better choice to protect top end better on startup would be to buy some 5w30 Castrol for VW TDIs at your local VW dealership.

Might even lower fuel consumption. My JD 2025R now seems to be going below 0.6 gph which is about what the prorate off the 0.46 gph rate of the 4010 would be. Using the 5w30 in it and in the Isuzu diesel.

Ralph

 

[duffer]

I use Rotella in my 2538 (predecessor to your 2638) for about 4 years now. Change it every 100 hours.

I did do the hydraulic fluid change @ 50 hrs and filter. Some here have suggested to save the fluid, and strain it going back into the housing to protect any metal shavings or other foreign matter from getting back into the reservoir. Sound advise IMO. Definitely change your hydraulic filter, as I imagine there are shavings, and other "crud" accumulated during the break-in period.

Between the rear hydraulic reservoir and front axle, you'll have close to 8 gal of fluid to drain. So get some BIG drain pans!

Be prepared to use a breaker bar to loosen the drain plugs the first time. The factory installs them with about 1000 psi torque, and then paints over them to seal them even more. I had to use a propane torch to heat up the drain plug on the front axle to break it lose the first time.

I use WIX filters on mine. Good quality and meets OEM specs, and a lot less than Mahindra filters.

 

[dusty3030]

If you just want to replace the hydraulic filters and keep the fluid another option/trick is to hook a shop vac to your transmission fill hole. Leave it running while you replace your filters / clean suction screen etc. It will pull enough vacuum so that when you take the old filters off you will only loose what's in the filter.

 

[Shemp]

If you just want to replace the hydraulic filters and keep the fluid another option/trick is to hook a shop vac to your transmission fill hole. Leave it running while you replace your filters / clean suction screen etc. It will pull enough vacuum so that when you take the old filters off you will only loose what's in the filter.

Is it actually strong enough suction that itll pull it into the shopvac?

 

[dusty3030]

Is it actually strong enough suction that itll pull it into the shopvac?

Not in my experience. I've done this on several different tractors and it works. You are just sticking the nozzle of the shop vac up to the fill port not down into it.

I've done it on engine oil before too on a tractor. Changed the oil and when cleaning up noticed the drain plug washer in the bottom of the catch pan when I was pouring the used oil into jugs.
Had my son hold the shop vac nozzle up to the fill hole, pulled the plug, replaced the washer, and reinstalled. Didn't loose a drop.

 

[Trillium Farm]

Follow the book unless YOU know better!

 

[DupuyDog]

I have to chuckle at that one. I have yet to receive my owners manual, but I keep asking for one.