Weld broken hydraulic cylinder stanchion rod
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user.69169
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First most important question is where the rod broke.
If broke at de foot or near, drill, pin, and weld out. Don't need be real fancy or even polished there cept for wear on de mud seal.
Broke farther up, repair gets more complicated.
Got no direcct knowledge of de machine or hoe so best you post up pictures.
If broke at de foot or near, drill, pin, and weld out. Don't need be real fancy or even polished there cept for wear on de mud seal.
Broke farther up, repair gets more complicated.
Got no direcct knowledge of de machine or hoe so best you post up pictures.
user.69169
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IF I understand right, you broke de rod at de piston end.
Seems like you mentioned something bout it being hollow where it broke too.
If little bit of that hollow is is in end of de rod from foot to cylinder end, you kind of lucky unless de rod got bent too.
Sure ain't no weldin job thou.
1st thing, pull de end off de cylinder and see how bad piston mushed up de barrel and piston too.. Probably best you pop piston out of barrel wid compressed air to save oil bath.
DO NOT USE NO PIPE WRENCH ON CYLINDERS OR RODS!!!
Probably gonna need new O rings & wiper too, so you either find dem local or order rebuild kit.
God ting, outrigger piston does about 90% of its work extending, so quick & dirty fix is to find shop with a lathe.
Chance is piston itself is just sitting between a shoulder on back end of rod and a bolthead holdin piston on de rod.
Sounds like she broke at de empty space between front of bolt and solid shaft where manufacturer driled deeper den necessary.
IF
And only IF rod ain't bent and piston ain't busted up quick fix (been done many times) is to chuck shaft in lathe widout chewin up chrome and bore deeper. Den you thread a new stud into de good piston shaft, and put rod & piston back together.
Ain't got a lathe it can be and has been done wid a drill motor and some talent. akes longer.
Generally best to go a bolt size smaller on de new bore. You can do dat cause force lifting outrigger is minimal compared to force holding foot down. You gotta sleeve inside bore of de piston as needed. Sleeve can be PVC since it only holding. Line up and snug up and test fit piston back into barrel.
You can also put a extension limiter in before reassembly to make sure broke shaft never again meets seals and chews dem up. Dat nothing but a short piece of tubing riding de rod to prevent full extend.
Worst case you need to carry a wood block for under dat foot.
You go over to Abom71 on you tube and watch his videos on cylinder rebuild you see what you got is pretty easy.
BTW, you gonna keep playin wid rocks and dat machine, find a hunk of pipe to ride between foot and cylinder to catch rocks.
Seems like you mentioned something bout it being hollow where it broke too.
If little bit of that hollow is is in end of de rod from foot to cylinder end, you kind of lucky unless de rod got bent too.
Sure ain't no weldin job thou.
1st thing, pull de end off de cylinder and see how bad piston mushed up de barrel and piston too.. Probably best you pop piston out of barrel wid compressed air to save oil bath.
DO NOT USE NO PIPE WRENCH ON CYLINDERS OR RODS!!!
Probably gonna need new O rings & wiper too, so you either find dem local or order rebuild kit.
God ting, outrigger piston does about 90% of its work extending, so quick & dirty fix is to find shop with a lathe.
Chance is piston itself is just sitting between a shoulder on back end of rod and a bolthead holdin piston on de rod.
Sounds like she broke at de empty space between front of bolt and solid shaft where manufacturer driled deeper den necessary.
IF
And only IF rod ain't bent and piston ain't busted up quick fix (been done many times) is to chuck shaft in lathe widout chewin up chrome and bore deeper. Den you thread a new stud into de good piston shaft, and put rod & piston back together.
Ain't got a lathe it can be and has been done wid a drill motor and some talent. akes longer.
Generally best to go a bolt size smaller on de new bore. You can do dat cause force lifting outrigger is minimal compared to force holding foot down. You gotta sleeve inside bore of de piston as needed. Sleeve can be PVC since it only holding. Line up and snug up and test fit piston back into barrel.
You can also put a extension limiter in before reassembly to make sure broke shaft never again meets seals and chews dem up. Dat nothing but a short piece of tubing riding de rod to prevent full extend.
Worst case you need to carry a wood block for under dat foot.
You go over to Abom71 on you tube and watch his videos on cylinder rebuild you see what you got is pretty easy.
BTW, you gonna keep playin wid rocks and dat machine, find a hunk of pipe to ride between foot and cylinder to catch rocks.
(removed), thanks for the detailed response. Where it broke is solid all the way through. I just mentioned that in some places they were recommending boring both ends out and putting a stud in there for reinforcement.
So you're suggesting putting a news threaded end on where it broke. I'll have to see how much is broken off when I disassemble it tomorrow I hope. There may be enough left to do something like that.
You don't think a Weld will hold? Thanks
So you're suggesting putting a news threaded end on where it broke. I'll have to see how much is broken off when I disassemble it tomorrow I hope. There may be enough left to do something like that.
You don't think a Weld will hold? Thanks
LouNY
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I'm not a professional welder by any means but reading all your posts I would go ahead and weld it together,
then turn it to clean it up.
I would use a piece of heavy angle iron as a welding table to try and keep it as straight as possible,
as you are welding and it starts to pull rotate to the opposite side and weld to pull it back.
When finished welding use a press to get it straight as possible then clean it up and get to work.
then turn it to clean it up.
I would use a piece of heavy angle iron as a welding table to try and keep it as straight as possible,
as you are welding and it starts to pull rotate to the opposite side and weld to pull it back.
When finished welding use a press to get it straight as possible then clean it up and get to work.
wdchyd
Elite Member
7018 DC reverse Is the right stuff, preheat heavy sections before the root pass. Start with smaller diameter rod (3/16”) in the root, progress to larger diameter rod. 1/8” or 5/32” is fine if you have it. Let it cool slowly.
I’ve done too many to count with 7018 DC.
I’ve done too many to count with 7018 DC.
wdchyd
Elite Member
Just saw you have a JohnDeere 310D, the stabilizer hyd rod will be 50mm, if you buy a piece of chrome stock to make a new one specify 50mm chromed plated “ induction hardened” material.
