6013 vs 7014 vs 7018

   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #41  
Most likely standard polarity versus reverse polarity, being that 10018 is probably like 7018 being a DC rod, polarity makes a big difference, which would make sense.
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #42  
Contacted the man who done it for directions.
Brine thawed bird for 24 hours and shove 2 x 2 oak straight thru.
Mount bird on positioner
6 Amps per pound
Switch polarity every hour
Rotate slow to keep splatter down
Wet towel around carcas if needed to keep moist DONT use aluminum foil
Reduce amperage after 4 hours so de skin dont burn.
 

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   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #43  
IF this is another explanation of "how to keep a turkey in suspense", it's WORKING... :confused: ... Steve

Gee I almost thought you of all the turkeys here would've got that light bulb awakening. But rangerfredbob was very close. Well if you can believe it I welded with lb of 10018 electrodes on AC setting, it took me a good lb of wire before the light bulb came on, talk about stupid, I could never even strike a arc with my other AC machines. The lever on the left was on AC or in the middle position, DUH................

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   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #44  
^^^^
Thank you for making like Paul Harvey and telling us "the rest of the story." I thought that I'd stumbled into the middle of a Hitchcock cliffhanger...
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #45  
Could you to explain your explanation.

What I looked up for 1/8" 10018-DE MR welding rod is listed for typical operating procedures is:

DC+ and AC

What I listed was kind of shorthand, sorry, and I meant that he may have been welding direct current straight polarity (DCSP), and it should be run using direct current reverse polarity (DCRP).

And I did not mention anything about Alternate Current (AC) because this rod can be welded using AC.

Maybe the OP has a sightly different brand of welding rod?

Here is the link to what I used:

KC

https://www.lincolnelectric.com/ass...teels-Excalibur-Excalibur10018-D2MR/c2109.pdf
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #46  
I look at the box the rods came in and they are what you said. But take it from me if thats Lincolns example of a DC/AC electrode someone has been breathing to much welding fumes or someone loves to speak in tongues while welding. The initial start was ok-ish but restart was terrible and was more spattery, but after the light bulb came on I switched to DC reverse then the 10018s welded smooth and nice. If someone here can weld with those on AC they are a better stick welder then I am and I love to see someone try to weld with those using mirrors on AC, if that wouldn't cause anyone to speak in tongues nothing will. My example of a DC/AC rod is 6011, not 10018......

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   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #47  
Could you to explain your explanation.
The story goes turkeys are so stupid that in the rain they look up with their mouth open & drown from the rain falling down their throat. While I've never seen that personally, we have had a couple baby turkeys drown themselves in their water dish despite leaving it full of pebbles so they couldn't get their head in. They would push their head under water & drown in 1/2" of water.
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #48  
At home, 90% of what I weld with is 6011, just because of paint and rust, and it is not like the weld is going to break. Goodness, have you ever tacked something together wrong and then tried to take it apart? It is plenty strong.

If I want something better than 6011, then I grab 7018. Those are the only two types of rods I keep around the farm though.
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #49  
Glad to help; I really like your fume setup, got most of the stuff to make one now I just need to find a few more of those circular things called "tuit" :rolleyes:

I really should get that done, couple years ago I actually found myself laying on the ground after mig welding a stainless bolt to a mild steel square to make a gate hinge. Hexavalent Chrome poisoning is NO JOKE, just one dumb-azz mistake and it took a couple minutes before I could walk without falling over... Steve
I am not sure what happened, perhaps you inhaled the argon but it sure wasnt hexavalent chrome poisoning.
I have TIG welded more stainless, and chrome alloy piping than most people have ever seen (like 10 hours per day 5-7 days a week for years) with no mask, no smoke extractor, etc, just a welding hood and never had any issues. All the stainless alloy welders welded in an enclosed 5x6x7 foot shack enclosed with plastic to keep out the wind/ rain and supervisors to an extent and no one ever had even a headache from welding chromium alloys.
When all the hub-bub started about hexavalent chromium poisoning all the alloy welder had to wear a little machine that ran a hose up inside our hoods and sucked up a sample of the air we were breathing all day. The filter was sent off for testing and no chromium was ever detected.
 
   / 6013 vs 7014 vs 7018 #50  
Gary you ain't sposta introduce facts or reality into chrome threads.

Some school runnin fellow wid Degrees said it happens so just like Freon 12 disintegrates in Stratosphere it happens and kids don't get to touch SS. Nother couple years dey probably swap out SS sinks and cooking pots too to keep little darlings safe.

Put de 309 rod back in de lockbox and use 7018. Some engineer can make it sound right.
 

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