2538 hst question re: tie rod boot replacement

[Tater John]

Hello all. I have a 2538 hst. Recently noticed the tie rod end rubber boot was torn (left side as sitting on tractor) I have purchased the boot ($ 24 for a 25 cent piece of rubber)
but not sure about changing it. Need help on how to go about changing the boot. It's obvious the tie rod will have to be separated from main steering shaft,
but have no experience about how to do that. I'm guessing the nut on the tie rod will needs to be backed out to provide separation space, but not sure. Also not sure if
entire front end would have to be jacked up in order to work on these steering parts. Also concerned about messing up the toe in / out setting. I think I tore the boot while
pushing some brush into the woods. Tractor has about 230 hrs. and has been a reliable work horse. I do not abuse it and was a little sick when I saw the torn boot. It stays
parked in the barn when not used, and I don't use it in the rain. Given that, and until boot is replaced, any recommendations about maintaining that joint (grease, keep it dry as
possible ?) Would appreciate any help from those who know the answers. Thanks.

 

[duffer]

John, Just went out to look at my 2538 to see if I could lend you a hand. Low and behold, my boot is torn too! But I'm sure it's been torn for a while. Based on the cost of the replacement boot, I'm going to band-aid my existing boot. It's just a dust cover anyway.

Anyway, upon looking at mine, the booted area does not have a zerk fitting for grease. So the boot is essentially to keep dust and grime out of the joint. It appears as though you should be able to back off the locking nut and the the main sleeve. But...find a way to mark the thread location prior to backing them off, to make sure you don't screw up the alignment, when re-assembling. Mark with paint pen, or tape, or take precise measurements before backing off the nuts (or all of the above).

I believe you'll also have to back off the large round nut on the other side of the joint in order to get access to slide the new boot on. But not sure on that. Start with the 2 nuts closer to the wheel.

Based on my assessment, I don't think you'll have to jack up the front end, but you might. I'd run the front end up on ramps if you have them, for easier access. It appears all the weight is carried by the wheel and front axle. I would however, wiggle your steering wheel left and right to make sure you relieve any pressure from turned wheels. (essentially putting the power steering in "neutral mode".

I checked my service manual, but there is no reference on dis-assembling this joint that I could find.

 

[Tater John]

John, Just went out to look at my 2538 to see if I could lend you a hand. Low and behold, my boot is torn too! But I'm sure it's been torn for a while. Based on the cost of the replacement boot, I'm going to band-aid my existing boot. It's just a dust cover anyway.

Anyway, upon looking at mine, the booted area does not have a zerk fitting for grease. So the boot is essentially to keep dust and grime out of the joint. It appears as though you should be able to back off the locking nut and the the main sleeve. But...find a way to mark the thread location prior to backing them off, to make sure you don't screw up the alignment, when re-assembling. Mark with paint pen, or tape, or take precise measurements before backing off the nuts (or all of the above).

I believe you'll also have to back off the large round nut on the other side of the joint in order to get access to slide the new boot on. But not sure on that. Start with the 2 nuts closer to the wheel.

Based on my assessment, I don't think you'll have to jack up the front end, but you might. I'd run the front end up on ramps if you have them, for easier access. It appears all the weight is carried by the wheel and front axle. I would however, wiggle your steering wheel left and right to make sure you relieve any pressure from turned wheels. (essentially putting the power steering in "neutral mode".

I checked my service manual, but there is no reference on dis-assembling this joint that I could find.

Thank you Duffer for responding. I hope to try and replace the boot in the next few weeks, just too busy with fall work right now. When you figure out your "band-aid" approach, I'd appreciate a heads up on that. I don't think I'll be purchasing another factory part, but I may tear another boot sometime. After the work is done I will update on this thread. I thought perhaps there was somebody out there who had already done this repair who would share their experience. How about it 2538 owners?

 

[duffer]

John, I've learned a lot of things from this board. Great people here.

And one of the things I learned is that there aren't too many 2538 or 2638 posters on here. Secondly, hardly EVER is there a problem with their tractors. So easy-peasy fix posts, are not easily had.

My "band-aid" approach is to take some duct/elec tape, wrap it loosely, and then take a torch to it to shrink it and seal it a little. Kind of like splicing an underground elec cable, with the rubber sleeve they put around the splice if you've ever seen that. Works pretty good.

 

[3gunr]

I replaced both of mine the first year i had it , tore them off brushhogging sumac trees. I remember taking the wheels off so it was jacked up , as duffer said be sure to mark or count your turns when threading them off. I built brush guards for them so i dont tear up the new ones. Yea the price was stupid for a little peice of rubber. If i remember correctly i think i watched a you tube video on changing them . good luck.