Slow leak!

   / Slow leak! #11  
Not really. The front crank seal on Kubota engines is constantly sprayed with oil splash from the timing gears. It's a synthetic seal with an internal spring tension ring. Won't dry out.
but, it still happens..
 
   / Slow leak! #12  
but, it still happens..

From wear, yes, I just replaced one. From sitting, no. Easy to replace seal too. Pull the crank pulley / balancer, slide off the wear sleeve and pop the seal. Install a new one with a seal driver, install a new wear sleeve (oil first) and replace the crank pulley and Woodruff key. 20 minute job, tops. Don't forget to torque the pulley fixing bolt to the torque spec listed in the appropriate WSM.
 
   / Slow leak!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Hello again,
Got the B2650 back from the dealer. Mowed a 2.5 ac. field, pulled into the shed and noticed it still leaks after $400 delivery fee and 10 day wait.
Decided to do the work myself. Anyone pull the oil pan from a B2650?

Jim
 
   / Slow leak! #14  
Hello again,
Got the B2650 back from the dealer. Mowed a 2.5 ac. field, pulled into the shed and noticed it still leaks after $400 delivery fee and 10 day wait.
Decided to do the work myself. Anyone pull the oil pan from a B2650?

Jim

I don't have one but... I've heard it's easier to pull the motor to pull the pan on some of the smaller tractors because the clearance between the pan and the frame is real tight. You need to look at the pan relationship to the rails to ascertain if removal from the bottom is feasible. You will have to remove the front propeller shaft and it's shield to gain access to the pan if you do it from the bottom. Are you positive it's the pan leaking and not a faulty install of the front crank seal? I know on my big Kubota's the front crank seal is a 2 piece seal. The outer seal and an inner steel sleeve and they come as a matched set. Think I'd snug up the pan bolts first and see if that curtails the leak. The torque specs for those bolts will be in your owners manual in the bolt torque chart. Both my tractors leak a bit once in a while but they are over 20 years old and worked hard.
 
   / Slow leak!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I don't have one but... I've heard it's easier to pull the motor to pull the pan on some of the smaller tractors because the clearance between the pan and the frame is real tight. You need to look at the pan relationship to the rails to ascertain if removal from the bottom is feasible. You will have to remove the front propeller shaft and it's shield to gain access to the pan if you do it from the bottom. Are you positive it's the pan leaking and not a faulty install of the front crank seal? I know on my big Kubota's the front crank seal is a 2 piece seal. The outer seal and an inner steel sleeve and they come as a matched set. Think I'd snug up the pan bolts first and see if that curtails the leak. The torque specs for those bolts will be in your owners manual in the bolt torque chart. Both my tractors leak a bit once in a while but they are over 20 years old and worked hard.

Thanks 5030,
The pan is very tight to the frame with welded-on nuts on the inside of the frame.
I think you are right about removing the engine.

Thanks again
Jim
 

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