Plumbing a bolt on grapple

   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #22  
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #23  
Having a 3rd function would be great, you could use it for a lot of other attachments too.

Next time you need an extra outlet, consider replacing or adding onto the existing control valve. Lots of inexpensive to medium priced tractor/loaders come with a standard two-spool double-acting control valve - hopefully with spring centers, one spool with float, and "Power Beyond" capabilty. Contrast that to higher end machinery which often comes with sectional control valves of the type that you can add as different types of parallel circuits and control valves as you want - all with a common pressure feed and common return.

Sectionals valves are great. For rear remotes, for example - you can run your existing Power Beyond to the inlet of a bank of sectional control valves mounted on the fender back by the 3pt hitch.... and then you have the option of adding as many hydraulic circuits as you desire by simply adding more valve segments and longer bolts.

Hydraulic outlets and controls are where tractor dealers seem to make a lot of their markup. Hydraulic parts are inexpensive, universal, and easy to mount..... but for some reason they are a mystery to the average tractor owner. That's good for dealers but not so much so for owners.

I was just quoted $1250 parts plus 8 hours shop time at the dealership to add one extra rear remote to the existing sectional control valve on a JD tractor.
Judging from the prices I see for adding rear remotes to new tractors on TBN, that's not so uncommon.
But compare that quote with the actual cost of the standard Prince sectional valves and bolts which is about $200 per additional circuit. The wrench-time it takes to add the section might be as long as two hours - but only if you stopped for lunch. So it pays to study up.
rScotty
 

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   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #24  
Has anyone installed the diverter valve and found that losing the curl function limited their use? It almost seems easier to use the diverter valve as the hand never needs to leave the loader control stick to actuate the grapple. Another question, is using a momentary contact switch for the diverter valve a good idea? I am thinking that having the switch located under the third finger would be an advantage. Press the switch when I need the grapple circuit....release and the curl function is back. The danger would be hitting the switch by mistake and dropping the load in the grapple.
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #25  
I was just quoted $1250 parts plus 8 hours shop time at the dealership to add one extra rear remote to the existing sectional control valve on a JD tractor.
Judging from the prices I see for adding rear remotes to new tractors on TBN, that's not so uncommon.

I was quoted $1000.00 for a rear remote kit for my kubota. Parts only....Not a difficult install. remove a block off plate and install. I have no idea why the kit is so expensive
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #26  
I ordered a rear remote from the factory for my 4410. At the time I didn't realize what a rip off it was. I believe the price was $750 back in 2004. All the kit was is a lever, hydraulic lines and ends. The valve is already there on every 4410. I could have easily ordered a lever over the counter and I changed the lines all around any way to add a splitter. It was too late once I realized what had happened but I was a bit bummed at John Deere.
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #27  
I ordered a rear remote from the factory for my 4410. At the time I didn't realize what a rip off it was. I believe the price was $750 back in 2004. All the kit was is a lever, hydraulic lines and ends. The valve is already there on every 4410. I could have easily ordered a lever over the counter and I changed the lines all around any way to add a splitter. It was too late once I realized what had happened but I was a bit bummed at John Deere.

I've wondered why hydraulic work is so poorly understood & expensive at some tractor dealerships. It's got to where If I need hydraulic advice, I go to the industrial repair shop instead of the tractor dealer. None of the local tractor shops even has a hydraulic flow bench. They're guessing; not diagnosing.

What I'm thinking is that the problem isn't JD or any specific brand as much as it's a problem with the education system. For example, I used to hire technicians for a company. And I found that out of every dozen engine tune & rebuilders there would be half a dozen who also felt comfortable with drive systems and maybe two or three who also understood electrical systems or could do basic software programming. Hydraulic mechanics were really rare.

There's a lot of job openings for industrial hydraulic guys & could be why it's uncommon to find one at a dealership. And maybe that's at least part of why simple hydraulic work costs so much at dealerships..... or maybe it really is a an industry-wide rip.
rScotty
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #28  
rScotty,
You may be correct, but my experience with my JD dealer is also very poor. They would not even install a top link system on my old 855 and they wanted to sell me a $600+ FEL loader cylinder that was "leaking". They would not rebuild it and then my buddy found the "leak" was from a fitting...cylinder was fine.

If/when I upgrade, I will not look at JD.

BTW, there are a huge number of FEL's and backhoe attachments sold. If a dealer is unable or unwilling to train their techs on hydraulics, they do not deserve our business. And if they continue to rip off customers, well.....

I hope that these lessons are being learned by other manufacturers and dealers who read this forum. Some day JD will wake up and say, "What happened to our market share?" Kind of reminds of the arrogance of GM when they controlled the NA car business. Honda and Toyota are eating their lunch.
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Finally got it done with a lot of help from you all. Made the first post December 2018.

I quit work in March when the virus started. After I got this years wood in and split next years and maybe some moreI thought it’s was time. I went with the “elegant” solution suggested by Winston. Think it did cost less than a third function rig.The old valve was weeping. I bought a new 3 spool valve from Surplus Center and a bolt on grapple from Greens.
I made a template of the bracket to determine the length of the thumb but failed to notice that a pipe welded to stiffen the top of the bucket made it impossible to bolt on. It had to be welded.

Tacked it on and determined the bracket was askew and the clevis wouldn’t fit. Greens made good on it with no question except did I want to wait a week for it to be painted.

I picked up a snow plow that angles. It hooks into the grapple connects. Two for one! We’re getting the first snow today.

So it’s done and it works great. Blows my mind to get into that seat and pick something up that weighs half a ton.

Thanks for all your help.
trac1.jpgtrac2.jpg
 
   / Plumbing a bolt on grapple #30  
If I were to do this myself, my tractor would just sail away xD on oil or whatever :). When it comes to complex repairs, I prefer to let professionals do their job. Something similar, though not tractor-related, happened to me last year. I call it the emergency plumber san diego case :). I was at my flat back in San Diego when the neighbor downstairs started knocking violently at my door. Apparently, there was a leak on the pipes going through my floor. He had been away for several weeks, and his flat had turned into a pool by his return. I have never done the plumbing myself ever since.
 
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