Full synthetic oil at 20 hours?

[North to Alaska]

I live in the Talkeetna area of Alaska. Temps will routinely get down to -20 or even -30 at night but -40 is rare.
My 4520r is going to be outside (need to order the block heater dang it...)
Only 20 hours on it so far but I want to get fluids changed for winter temps. Local dealer mechanic suggested that I don稚 do synthetic till it is fully broken in (50 hours)
I want Rotella t6 5w40 (don稚 think I need 0w40?) which is full synthetic.
I am in disagreement with him and I figure 20 hours (or even 30 hours by the time I get it in) is sufficient.

I am willing to listen to your opinion.

Thank you

Oh and other suggested fluid changes for winter?

 

[Roadworthy]

Did you ask the mechanic WHY he didn't recommend synthetic before getting fifty hours on the tractor? With today's high detergent oils I see no reason not to go full synthetic.

 

[LouNY]

Years ago with hard chrome rings they needed a breakin period before a really slippery oil could be used without excess oil consumption.
Nothing in the last 20 years to my knowledge has used hard chrome rings.
Many new vehicles come with synthetic oil factory installed.
I have always done my first oil and filter change between 500 and 1000 miles on new engines and usually gone to synthetics at that time.
On engines that I have rebuilt the oil and filter was changed the first time after the 30 minute unloaded breakin run at various rpm,
anf then again around 500 miles.
Over kill maybe, but my engines used to be run hard (stock cars and hard working trucks)

 

[North to Alaska]

Did you ask the mechanic WHY he didn't recommend synthetic before getting fifty hours on the tractor? With today's high detergent oils I see no reason not to go full synthetic.

He said that the rings needed to be seated.
As with the post following yours mentioned. This should not be required?

 

[Cat_Driver]

Every piece of equipment I own I change ALL the fluids almost as soon as I bring the equipment home to full synthetics. That's cars, tractors, trucks, excavators, skid steers, side by sides etc, etc.
Ask the mechanic then why BMW's Corvettes and many other vehicles come with full synthetic from the manufacturer.

Oh, and I've been doing this for 40 years now so I have a pretty good track record.

 

[North to Alaska]

This has been my thought, especially for vehicles, but I wasn’t sure about tractors. Figured, they might be a different animal in this regard after having talked to him.

He is a nice guy...and the only Branson mechanic we have in Alaska. Don’t want to diss him any.:drink:

 

[RalphVa]

I switched the JD 4010 to synthetic at 13 hours. You should get a 0wxx. Can get M1 0w30 ESP online at a reasonable price if you search around online.

Ralph

 

[Grumpycat]

If there are high points on the cylinder walls and/or rings then no "synthetic" motor oil is going to prevent them from coming into contact. Synthetic oil salesmen invented this myth as a means of selling more oil. "Our oil is so good we recommend against it!"

0W oil will flow at -30°C the same whether it is synthetic or refined. That is the very definition of "0W".

5W oil is going to flow at -25°C same as 0W at -30°W. If "synthetic" 5W flowed easier at -25°C then it would be 0W.

The W winter oil viscosity grade is assigned based on the lowest temperature it is deemed usable. Every 5 points in grade is 5°C.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Is there any 0W-XX oils that are not synthetic?

It's hard to find 5W-XX that isn't synthetic.

 

[North to Alaska]

This has been my thought, especially for vehicles, but I wasn’t sure about tractors. Figured, they might be a different animal in this regard after having talked to him.

He is a nice guy...and the only Branson mechanic we have in Alaska. Don’t want to diss him any.:drink:

If there are high points on the cylinder walls and/or rings then no "synthetic" motor oil is going to prevent them from coming into contact. Synthetic oil salesmen invented this myth as a means of selling more oil. "Our oil is so good we recommend against it!"

0W oil will flow at -30°C the same whether it is synthetic or refined. That is the very definition of "0W".

5W oil is going to flow at -25°C same as 0W at -30°W. If "synthetic" 5W flowed easier at -25°C then it would be 0W.

The W winter oil viscosity grade is assigned based on the lowest temperature it is deemed usable. Every 5 points in grade is 5°C.

According to Rotella pds,
T6 5w40 -44f pour point
T6 0w40 -61f pour point

I think I’m “safe” with the 5w40 but 0w40 might be “safer”

Also, anybody have thoughts on other fluid changes?
Considered changing the front axle gear oil to a Amsoil.
Did so with both the F150 and Nissan NV before coming up. (Glad because the F150 rear differential was short 3/4 of a quart... factory)