Yep, I was talking about cars with carbs from the 60s, 70s and early 80s. Some of the early fuel injected models were not much better. Today's cars are much different and mine will start up at -20 without an issue, maybe it needs to turn over a couple more times, but that's it.
Surprised how much block heater helps starting diesel
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Yep, I was talking about cars with carbs from the 60s, 70s and early 80s. Some of the early fuel injected models were not much better. Today's cars are much different and mine will start up at -20 without an issue, maybe it needs to turn over a couple more times, but that's it.
oosik
Epic Contributor
We may be talking about two situations here. 1) you ABSOLUTLEY must use a heater to get the tractor started when it's really cold. 2) you use a heater to start the tractor when it's really cold because it's easier starting and, perhaps, less wear on the engine.
On my M6040 the only difference - when outside temps are below 32F the intake preheater turns on. -20F or 80F - - the tractor starts right up on the first attempt.
On my M6040 the only difference - when outside temps are below 32F the intake preheater turns on. -20F or 80F - - the tractor starts right up on the first attempt.
Yes, exactly. I have never had an issue with starting. When I first got the tractor I was parking it under my solar panel array too far away to plug it in until I got my new shed built. There were a couple of really cool mornings that I needed to run it and it started. I don't really know at this point if there is a temperature where I ABSOLUTELY must use the heater to get it started. But if using it will make it easier to start and perhaps cause less wear on the engine then it's worth it me to run it.
I don't always have the ability to say it can wait. While we don't generally get new snow when it's -20 outside, it is always windy here where I am. I sometimes need to move snow 3 times on days that are sunny.
Bavarian
Platinum Member
We have a mixed situation of those opinions above. We try to avoid being out there at -25 C. But if we have to feed the cows, the tractor needs to start.
The previous two winters were a bit more friendly with some "warmer" periods between the cold snaps. We try to time the feeding regarding the weather forecast. Sometimes we feed only one bale if needed and fill up the feeders just before the next cold period.
Plugging the tractor in for three hours helps.
There is no general rule when a tractor needs to be plugged in and how long. Our tractor doesn't even cycle the glow plugs if it's around freezing point. Down to -10C, I don't even think about plugging in. Below -15C it sure helps.
You can even overheat the block heater when plugged in too long or continuously. A timer is a good solution as mentioned above. I set it on cycle in the coldest period. To have it ready in the morning hours if there is need for snow removal and then later on in the afternoon if my wife and son need to feed the cows after work.
The previous two winters were a bit more friendly with some "warmer" periods between the cold snaps. We try to time the feeding regarding the weather forecast. Sometimes we feed only one bale if needed and fill up the feeders just before the next cold period.
Plugging the tractor in for three hours helps.
There is no general rule when a tractor needs to be plugged in and how long. Our tractor doesn't even cycle the glow plugs if it's around freezing point. Down to -10C, I don't even think about plugging in. Below -15C it sure helps.
You can even overheat the block heater when plugged in too long or continuously. A timer is a good solution as mentioned above. I set it on cycle in the coldest period. To have it ready in the morning hours if there is need for snow removal and then later on in the afternoon if my wife and son need to feed the cows after work.
ruffdog
Super Star Member
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If it is cold enough my tongue will freeze to a metal object, I will definitely use the block heater. Extra clothes to go outside, probably use the heater.
Depending on WP impeller and water jacket design, and coolant type and condition, cavitation and air pockets can occur. (Diesels are inherently prone to coolant cavitation, but that is a whole thread or two on it's own.....
).One (less commonly used) designation for what I always thought of as the Coolant Overflow Tank is De-Gas Bottle. You can see this in action on some engines, gas or dzl: Start from cold, and undo the coolant bottle cap, lift it up so you can see in, but leave the hose below the level of the coolant. Any trapped air will usually produce small bubbles with the engine running, and coolant levels normal.
Generally I don't, but over the years I've unintentionally left a BHtr plugged in with vehicle running, with no damage.
BUT, I believe it's a good general practice not to do it....... there will be engines where you can get away with it; on others it will shorten the Bhtr's life.
Rgds, D.
KennyG
Elite Member
Although the instructions might say "air bubble", I think they mean steam bubble. Steam conducts heat much less than liquid so the heater element will overheat and fail if operated in a steam environment instead of liquid water. In the same way, people often refer to cavitation as air bubbles but they are actually steam bubbles. The trailing edge of an impeller or propeller causes a severe pressure drop which will cause the water to flash to steam and then condense and collapse, damaging the surface.
Cavitation can arise from sources other than props or impellers.
Cavitation Erosion in Diesel Cylinders - Engine Builder Magazine
Drifting a bit (sorry OP), but an important FYI re. maintaining/replacing coolant.
Rgds, D.
Cavitation Erosion in Diesel Cylinders - Engine Builder Magazine
Drifting a bit (sorry OP), but an important FYI re. maintaining/replacing coolant.
Rgds, D.
goeduck
Super Member
Cold transmission fluid is one downside to an HST over a gear.
MF RED in MT
Veteran Member
Do you have to call the fire department to get your tongue free, ha, just kidding.
I will use the block heater below 20F for about 20 minutes, and at -40F for about 1 hour (tractor is inside an unheated garage), using a heavy duty outdoor timer.
Tractor will start easy and run without sounding like a bunch of loose nuts/bolts in the engine.
My manual says at -5F and less to warm up the tractor 30 minutes or more, and at -40F I warm up the tractor for at least 45 minutes and then the inside of the cab is a toasty 35F.
In Montana just about all the motels/hotels have a power outlet just outside your door in the parking lot to plug your vehicles block heater into (always have a power cord in the vehicle.
Also I know when it gets below -20F l will cover my face to preheat the air you breathe.
:2cents: KC
