Buying Advice First time tractor buyer - dealer proximity advice

[kf4uda]

I personally would find others who have experience with the local dealer and see how they check out. If positive I would place my order with the local dealer and wait the month of so.

 

[rScotty]

Hi All,

I've been lurking these forums for a couple of months while I suffer through analysis paralysis, and after a whole lot of reading (so much good info here!) I've got my heart set on a Kioti CK2610. For the application/specs/price I think it'll be a good fit.

My question is regarding the importance of dealer proximity to my place. There's a dealer 10 miles away that quoted me $20.4k after tax for the tractor, including FEL, 3rd function valve, and filled tires. Unfortunately they're out of inventory and I'm having a hard time getting a real ETA from them.

There's another dealer 90 miles away who quoted me a roughly similar price for an identical setup, and they have one in stock right now. I also don't have a trailer at present; the far dealer is willing to deliver for $250 which didn't seem bad given the distance. If I end up needing warranty work though, I'd have to bother a buddy to haul it to the shop for me and it's quite a distance.

The near dealer keeps making noises about maybe having inventory this month so I'm wondering if I should just be patient since they're basically right up the street.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I don't know anything about that particular tractor, but the brand has a good rep.

How was it for fit and power when you tried it out? The tryout is always what makes the difference. I remember trying one that had the dash so close it wouldn't fit my knees - although I liked everything else about the tractor. Another one (an MF) had the best seating position I've ever sat on. All the controls just right and comfortable. I took it around the lot for half and hour and bought it.

Check the gearing too. Is the range of ratios good for what you will be doing?
How does it turn with the bucket full?
How easy is it to get on & off?

As for filled tires - do you need that? Alternately you can add wheel weights that do the same thing and are ultimately easier to deal with. Or if you have a real need for more traction and stability just go up one tractor size and you'll get much more of both than loading the rear tires on a smaller machine.

Best way I know of to save serious money on any model tractor is to specify power-shift or power-reverser or both instead of HST. Regardless of transmission type, get as many ranges & gears as you can. You will use them all far more than you think now.
Certainly get a good FEL with a SSQA & a front remote. Then you can add anything else as needed.

In most of the rural US tractor market the dealer is responsible for hauling for warranty work; the owner is responsible for hauling for any non-warranty work. If you think about it, that is popular because it makes the most sense.
rScotty

 

[Redbeard81]

Lots of good advice, thanks guys. The fit on the CK2610 (for me anyway) is great. I'm 6'4" with size 15 shoes. I'd originally been looking at the Kubota L2501 but with my huge feet the treadle pedal was not comfortable. The Kioti is a bit roomier and has a superior seat, plus little creature comforts like having the loader remote on the right-hand side next to the seat, instead of mounting it forward on the loader itself.

Regarding application, 90% of what I'll be using it for is FEL work. I've got 5 acres and a third of it is covered in low woody brush, deadfall, and old logging debris. My plan was to get a root rake grapple and start clearing stuff out. For the rest of the land I'll be moving a whole lot of topsoil and mulch to put in lawn and garden/food plots, plus gravel for a ~300 yard driveway.

Given that projected application I had no plans for rear implements (at least in the near future) so I was planning to load the tires and add a ballast box. If loading the tires seems like overkill then I could forego it.

 

[blacktruck]

Hi All,

I've been lurking these forums for a couple of months while I suffer through analysis paralysis, and after a whole lot of reading (so much good info here!) I've got my heart set on a Kioti CK2610. For the application/specs/price I think it'll be a good fit.

My question is regarding the importance of dealer proximity to my place. There's a dealer 10 miles away that quoted me $20.4k after tax for the tractor, including FEL, 3rd function valve, and filled tires. Unfortunately they're out of inventory and I'm having a hard time getting a real ETA from them.

There's another dealer 90 miles away who quoted me a roughly similar price for an identical setup, and they have one in stock right now. I also don't have a trailer at present; the far dealer is willing to deliver for $250 which didn't seem bad given the distance. If I end up needing warranty work though, I'd have to bother a buddy to haul it to the shop for me and it's quite a distance.

The near dealer keeps making noises about maybe having inventory this month so I'm wondering if I should just be patient since they're basically right up the street.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Welcome to the forum sir.
My advice is to use the local or closest dealer. None of us expect our tractors to go back for work but it does happen on occasion. As long as the $$ are similar, go local with your purchase. Don't get sucked into the best internet/volume dealer type of pitch or even just fall for a possibly lower sale price. I would prefer a local dealer that has been around for awhile. It is worth the extra money within reason. Talk to the local dealer and get a time frame for delivery. Dealers can swap/trade vehicles among themselves to get what you want if it is available. As with everything, you have to decide for yourself but supporting a local business is something we should all do more of (as said, within reason).
A dealer ten miles away when you need some gizmo or widget in a hurry is a lot better than a dealer 90 miles away.

 

[Redbeard81]

Welcome to the forum sir.
My advice is to use the local or closest dealer. None of us expect our tractors to go back for work but it does happen on occasion. As long as the $$ are similar, go local with your purchase. Don't get sucked into the best internet/volume dealer type of pitch or even just fall for a possibly lower sale price. I would prefer a local dealer that has been around for awhile. It is worth the extra money within reason. Talk to the local dealer and get a time frame for delivery. Dealers can swap/trade vehicles among themselves to get what you want if it is available. As with everything, you have to decide for yourself but supporting a local business is something we should all do more of (as said, within reason).
A dealer ten miles away when you need some gizmo or widget in a hurry is a lot better than a dealer 90 miles away.

Yeah this seems like a good call. I'm planning to be on this land for at least 15-20 years so building a relationship with the local business makes sense. Thanks again for the input and the welcome. :thumbsup:

 

[blacktruck]

Good luck on your purchase and the goal of your long time homestead. Me too. When I moved to the area many years ago, I did not know some 30 years later I would still be there. I'm glad that I did cultivate a few of those long term relationships in buying cars/trucks and equipment.

 

[senecak19]

300 yard driveway? Your going to want a land plane or box blade to put that together. It’ll make the initial build and maintenance a **** of a lot easier. Their both pricey implements but can be had for okay money with some creativity. I’m actually contemplating a box blade myself. I have a land plane that I use to manage my gravel driveway. Doesn’t take me but a few passes to remove all ruts and potholes. Looks like new when I’m done!

Lots of good advice, thanks guys. The fit on the CK2610 (for me anyway) is great. I'm 6'4" with size 15 shoes. I'd originally been looking at the Kubota L2501 but with my huge feet the treadle pedal was not comfortable. The Kioti is a bit roomier and has a superior seat, plus little creature comforts like having the loader remote on the right-hand side next to the seat, instead of mounting it forward on the loader itself.

Regarding application, 90% of what I'll be using it for is FEL work. I've got 5 acres and a third of it is covered in low woody brush, deadfall, and old logging debris. My plan was to get a root rake grapple and start clearing stuff out. For the rest of the land I'll be moving a whole lot of topsoil and mulch to put in lawn and garden/food plots, plus gravel for a ~300 yard driveway.

Given that projected application I had no plans for rear implements (at least in the near future) so I was planning to load the tires and add a ballast box. If loading the tires seems like overkill then I could forego it.

 

[rademamj1]

Regarding your comment on needing a ballast box, just get an attachment like the box blade or land plane, and use that for rear weight. Its just as heavy as a ballast box and a whole lot more useful.

 

[rScotty]

Regarding your comment on needing a ballast box, just get an attachment like the box blade or land plane, and use that for rear weight. Its just as heavy as a ballast box and a whole lot more useful.

I agree on using an implement for weight. BTW, although tractors get old and get replaced the same isn't true of implements. They last just about forever. Used box blades cost very little around here and one size fits all. If your dealer doesn't have at least a couple in the weeds behind the shop I'd be surprised. Typical price for a used box blade around here is $250 for a 5 foot wide all manual type. A box blade is close in size to a ballast box, but way more useful. Good for carrying tools, too.

As for filling the tires, you can always do that. Unloading them is quite a bit more difficult and flats are a nightmare. So it makes sense to give it a try without loading the tires at first. Then decide what to add after the implement....if anything.
rScotty

 

[dodge man]

A lot of times the implement will not be adequate ballast. My tractor calls for something like 750 lbs of ballast and loaded tires. Most implements for my JD2025r wouldn’t weigh enough.