Drill Bits

   / Drill Bits #42  
More in-line with the home shop is a Universal Tool and Cutter Grinder. They're in the $900-$1300 range and do a good job. But they are NOT automatic. You can't just stick a drill bit in it and sharpen it. It has to be set up for the tool/cutter you're grinding. I bought mine because I have a "machine shop" at home. I have one that uses 5C collets since I have a large drawer full of the collets already. Even this would be over the top for a handy-man DIY type. :2cents:

No home shop is going to sharpen enough drill bits to pay for a Darex. :rolleyes:

I own a machine shop and it's not at home.... I have 3 full time employees and they can all sharpen their own twist drills as well. 5C collets only come in fractional sizes anyway but you should already know that. I have Cat 40 spindles.
 
   / Drill Bits #43  
   / Drill Bits #44  
I work at a power plant with miles and miles of steel pipe, supports and other metal crap. The tool room hands out Lawson Supertanium II drill bits like chicklets. They are insanely better than the "junk" I use at home. Pricy as well, but amazing to use.
 
   / Drill Bits #45  
If I don't need precise, I will hand grind on either the bench grinder or a 1x30 belt grinder. If I need something better than that, I turn on the Drill Dr. 500x. There are a couple of features I have not been using to their full potential according to that video, and I suspect the diamond wheel may be due for replacing, so I am sure I can up my game on it some. If I take my time, I can turn out a half decent tip, and I like being able to do the split points. If I need to remove a lot of damage, I start with the bench grinder and touch up with the drill doctor.

One of the better things you can do to help your freehand bit sharpening is to get one of those wheel dressing blocks to put a squarer, freer cutting surface on the edge of the grinding wheel (never had much luck with the wheel type dressers).
 
   / Drill Bits #47  
. . . Had a hard time drilling through 2 x 4's . . .

I've never had a bit that wouldn't drill a 2X4 - In a pinch, I've even used bits with the end broken off. The only thing I can imagine is that your drill might be set to screw driver speed rather than drill speed, or that you're not pulling the bit often enough to clean the flutes and the flutes are packing. Note that in hardwoods, this isn't usually as much of a problem, but in pine especially, the bit can pack enough to stop drilling completely. That's all I can think of, anyway.
 
   / Drill Bits #48  
I did find that a bit odd too. Around here, a 2x4 can mean steel tubing and I wondered if that is what he meant.


I have hundreds of various junk, multi colored, Titanium, whatever, bits that worked a while and are now useless (unless sharpened) . Then I have a few select BLACK bits given to me by machinests or people in industry and those things untouched still drill after DECADES of use!
 
   / Drill Bits #49  
I've never had a bit that wouldn't drill a 2X4 - In a pinch, I've even used bits with the end broken off. The only thing I can imagine is that your drill might be set to screw driver speed rather than drill speed, or that you're not pulling the bit often enough to clean the flutes and the flutes are packing. Note that in hardwoods, this isn't usually as much of a problem, but in pine especially, the bit can pack enough to stop drilling completely. That's all I can think of, anyway.

I have lots of really poor bits, but I fix them by shifting the drill to forward.
Bruce
 
   / Drill Bits
  • Thread Starter
#50  
I've never had a bit that wouldn't drill a 2X4 - In a pinch, I've even used bits with the end broken off. The only thing I can imagine is that your drill might be set to screw driver speed rather than drill speed, or that you're not pulling the bit often enough to clean the flutes and the flutes are packing. Note that in hardwoods, this isn't usually as much of a problem, but in pine especially, the bit can pack enough to stop drilling completely. That's all I can think of, anyway.

I'm the OP. I have remodeled and worked on many projects, so I have a little experience using drill bits. The drill was set to the correct speed, it was being used on pine and oak, it was set on forward, it was not in an awkward position, etc. This happened with several different sizes of the bits. These were simply the worst drill bits I have ever used.
 
   / Drill Bits #51  
Seriously, I suspect the clearance angle was ground in the wrong direction.

The-Check-of-Standard-Twist-Drill-Bit-after-Grinding-Eyeballing-lip-relief-angle-of-the-outer-ed.jpg
 
   / Drill Bits #54  
I was taught how to sharpen a drill bit on a grinder in High School Metal Shop. While I'm no expert, it's pretty simple to get a decent edge on a bit in less then a minute if it's just getting dull and needing a touch up.

My current grinder is a small, half horse power, cheapy that has one fine wheel and a course wheel. The support in front of the fine wheel has a groove in it that is perfect for drill bits.

I received a Drill Doctor as a give way back when they first came out and they had commercial on for them all the time. I was impressed with it at first, but didn't think it was faster then my grinder. Then after using it a few times, I wasn't able to get the same results I did when it was brand new, and then it sat on my shelf for a few more years until I threw it away. I forgot I even had it until it was mentioned on here. Do they still sell them?
 
   / Drill Bits #55  
A fine stone, good light and good eyes or glasses and a little knowledge is all that is needed I guess. Doesn't work, try again.
 
   / Drill Bits #56  
Like many others, a regular grindstone to sharpen drill bits by eye, but I use a diamond file to put a final edge on. I find it works well.
 

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