Binding Tractor to Trailer

[Chrisb009]

Greetings,
I am really surprised there are really no binding points on tractors today (after all theses years). When I picked up the 2645 cab I had to wrap chain around the rear axle and front axle pivot point (rear was a pain to do with a bush cutter attached). So I decided to install some binding points. On the front, each side of the front frame, I simply added 1/2 d rings with plate (available across the counter locally). The front d rings are heavy duty and can be used for light to some heavy pulling. The rear was a little more challenging in finding a spot to mount some sort of binding point. The idea I came up with was to have 3/8" plate metal bent at approximately 45% angles on the edges. This plate would bolt the lower rear axle area via the two lower bolts. I took the idea came to a local machine shop known for doing small lot and specialized work. I worked with their CAD / CAM engineer and after several iterations we had a electronic prototype. Once I approved, it was made on the shop floor. I picked it up Friday and am very pleased with the outcome. It gives me rear binding points and also will allow for some light duty pulling from the attachment points as well. Attached a picture of the bracket. I had two made so if someone it interested in the second reach out - will sell cheap in comparison to what it cost to have it custom fab'ed and made.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[Reb954]

I"m not sure I understand how or where you are mounting the attachment. It will be interesting to see some pictures when you get it installed.

 

[Chrisb009]

I"m not sure I understand how or where you are mounting the attachment. It will be interesting to see some pictures when you get it installed.

I've included a picture of the mount location - look to the right side, where bolt is missing. It mounts in that location using the missing lower right bolt and left side lower bolt. I have to paint the bracket before I can install it so it may be a few days before it's warm enough to paint.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I think it would have been better to make a plate that mounted across the drawbar than to rely on just those 2 bolts going into the housing. The drawbar has it's forces across all 4 bolts there as well as the ones underneath. Just something to consider. I simply put a clevis in the drawbar and run both rear chains or straps to the clevis.

 

[Chrisb009]

I think it would have been better to make a plate that mounted across the drawbar than to rely on just those 2 bolts going into the housing. The drawbar has it's forces across all 4 bolts there as well as the ones underneath. Just something to consider. I simply put a clevis in the drawbar and run both rear chains or straps to the clevis.

I gave it some thought but decided on a dedicated bracket using the two lower bolts. From the research I performed it appears the rear housing and two lower bolts are sufficient to withstand the forces being applied.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[oosik]

I think Bearsixty7 has a better answer. Why make/use something questionable when you have the drawbar right there.

 

[Chrisb009]

I think Bearsixty7 has a better answer. Why make/use something questionable when you have the drawbar right there.

Not so sure why this would be questionable - after performing the research the rear two bolts are more than strong enough for this application. The drawbar allows one point of attachment for the rear portion - federal specs outlines four attachment points when transporting heavy equipment (have driven OTR). This doesn't necessarily fall into the heavy equipment range but I'm used to over designing to eliminate possibilities. This should also satisfy the motivated LOE.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[Reb954]

On my 2565 I just tie to the drawbar pin. If for some reason I need to tie further forward due to an implement attached to the 3 point, I can just turn the drawbar around, slip in it from the front. As far as 4 point tie down I just run a separate chain from drawbar pin to each side of the the trailer.

The concern I have with your setup is if you get in a hard braking situation while hauling the tractor you really only have one of those bolts holding the load. If your tie down point was between the bolts then both bolts would be holding the load. As it is, the bolt is being stretched and pealed sideways, in other words, it isn't a straight pull against the bolt.

 

[Chrisb009]

On my 2565 I just tie to the drawbar pin. If for some reason I need to tie further forward due to an implement attached to the 3 point, I can just turn the drawbar around, slip in it from the front. As far as 4 point tie down I just run a separate chain from drawbar pin to each side of the the trailer.

The concern I have with your setup is if you get in a hard braking situation while hauling the tractor you really only have one of those bolts holding the load. If your tie down point was between the bolts then both bolts would be holding the load. As it is, the bolt is being stretched and pealed sideways, in other words, it isn't a straight pull against the bolt.

That's correct - side forces would be applied to one bolt however forces in a direct line would be applied to both bolts. If braking, in a straight line, the force would be applied to both bolts if the load was properly bound to the trailer as both 45 degree attachment points would be load bearing in such a situation. I don't see having side forces exceeding a grade 8 bolt capacity however it could, in an extreme situation, exceed the housing strength and rip threads from the housing. The housing would be my concern when taking side forces into consideration but of no concern when considering straight forces such as braking in a straight line. The side force to rip threads from the housing at a 45% angle would have to be of an extreme nature - one I don't ever plan testing.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[rback33]

I carry two clevises of different styles. I almost always use a clevis on the draw bar. I second the others on not risking damaging that housing.

 

[bindian]

Ditto here. I always have a huge clevis or D ring on the drawbar. The chain goes through it if the backhoe is not installed. Then I route the chain over the bottom of the swing post.
hugs, Brandi

 

[PILOON]

Yep, another for using the drawbar.
On mine a shackle is permanently there for just that usage.

PS, the drawbar is one of the toughest attachment points on a tractor.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Rubber tired tractors create a different challenge. The basic precept in binding down any load is to make the load part of the platform. Tires do not compress easy. Any movement of the load compounds any applied stresses such as panic braking. That is the reason for the DOT minimum of 4 point tie down. Using the drawbar does not accomplish that. Straps are bad because no matter how hard you tighten there is still the stretch factor. That is why truckers always periodically check strapped loads as well as chains. I always use chains with ratchet binders on each separate chain. It takes a long pile on lever binders to compress tires to the minimal movement point. I had a 500 mile trip once and every checking point was still able to get at least several notches on the binders/straps. Straps are OK for solid cargo that is not compressible. Always put wood dunnage between steel items to stop sideways sliding. New ball game tying down tracked loads. They are often top heavy so the higher up you get the chains the more secure.
I learned all this when in the Navy loading trailers, aircraft, containers, and ships. a loose load can got right through the side of a ship or container in heavy seas or a roll over accident.

The life you save may be your own.

Ron

 

[Reb954]

Rubber tired tractors create a different challenge. The basic precept in binding down any load is to make the load part of the platform. Tires do not compress easy. Any movement of the load compounds any applied stresses such as panic braking. That is the reason for the DOT minimum of 4 point tie down. Using the drawbar does not accomplish that. Straps are bad because no matter how hard you tighten there is still the stretch factor. That is why truckers always periodically check strapped loads as well as chains. I always use chains with ratchet binders on each separate chain. It takes a long pile on lever binders to compress tires to the minimal movement point. I had a 500 mile trip once and every checking point was still able to get at least several notches on the binders/straps. Straps are OK for solid cargo that is not compressible. Always put wood dunnage between steel items to stop sideways sliding. New ball game tying down tracked loads. They are often top heavy so the higher up you get the chains the more secure.
I learned all this when in the Navy loading trailers, aircraft, containers, and ships. a loose load can got right through the side of a ship or container in heavy seas or a roll over accident.

The life you save may be your own.

Ron

Please explain the highlighted comment from your post. I'm guessing you mean running a single chain through the drawbar to each side of the trailer while using one binder.

In my experience, attaching one end of a chain to the drawbar and the other end to the trailer on each side of the tractor, using a binder on each side, will secure the tractor as good as it is going to get.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Please explain the highlighted comment from your post. I'm guessing you mean running a single chain through the drawbar to each side of the trailer while using one binder.

In my experience, attaching one end of a chain to the drawbar and the other end to the trailer on each side of the tractor, using a binder on each side, will secure the tractor as good as it is going to get.

OK, attaching at one point on the drawbar does not equal the two points required. You are also going from the center not the extremities.
It also doubles the force needed to compress the tires to a point that minimizes their potential vertical movement. Then the drawbar is pretty close to the trailer bed. The higher the attachment point the less overturning moment stress is created. Tractors are by design top heavy. My BX came with rear attachment points at the seat level. Put a shackle in and connect the chain to that. I made chains the specific length for each of the four points with open type hooks that go in the shackles and attach to the front brush guard then to the trailer connection points. If I don't have ratchet binders I always put keepers on the lever binders as they are known to release under movement stresses.

Like the current philosophy "follow the science", that is the real answer. The DOT requirements are based on structural engineering science.

Ron

 

[aczlan]

The higher the attachment point the less overturning moment stress is created.

You have that backwards, stability is a triangle, the higher you go the narrower the side to side range of motion before you tip over.
Low and wide is best, having your strap or chain go down, and out to the side at a 45° angle both down and forward or back is the ideal for a tie down strap/chain.

Aaron Z

 

[Tractor Seabee]

You have that backwards, stability is a triangle, the higher you go the narrower the side to side range of motion before you tip over.
Low and wide is best, having your strap or chain go down, and out to the side at a 45° angle both down and forward or back is the ideal for a tie down strap/chain.

Aaron Z

How do you gat a 45 degree angle with the drawbar 12" or less from the trailer bed? You have the 45 degree right, strongest triangle.

Ron

 

[Reb954]

Tractor Seebee, this response is not directed at you so please don't take offense.

When I read the "trust the science" comment, my mind equated it to the "trust me" saying we all hear and avoid anyone saying it. The politicians, through this pandemic, keep using "trust the science" as a way of telling the rest of us to shut up and do as we are told, kind of like "trust me". The actual scientists are saying very little due to knowing they haven't developed enough "science" to trust.

 

[aczlan]

How do you gat a 45 degree angle with the drawbar 12" or less from the trailer bed? You have the 45 degree right, strongest triangle.

Ron

With a BX you dont have much choice, anything bigger you do and should go as low as possible.

Aaron Z

 

[Industrial Toys]

Just reading a bit of this. My take on it would be that if you are working against the squish of the tires, to try and make sure that if the tie down method (whatever that is) does go slack momentarily, from a big bump or accident, that nothing can comes unhooked or undone.